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Old 01-19-2004, 05:49 PM   #7516
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Quote:
Originally posted by mike_Webb
Mike D.

Quick question that I should have asked you last night at the Track....

When you told me about the -2degree of kickup in the front of the car where you talking about the Front arms leaning Forward? You said you had to cut material from the f-2 or F-0 block so I am wondering if I run the F-0 block and put a .030 Washer under the F block to make the arms lean forward? Is this Correct and was this what you were talking about?

Also when you run the F block in the Rear do you have to run spacers under the F block when using the R+3+2 or R+2+2 blocks? Or do you just run a washer under the F block when you use the R+3-0 or R+2-0?

Thanks

Mike Webb
Mike Webb - Actually I machined down the front peices to get -2 kickup. You could put a spacer under the f block to get the -2 kickup but you would be raising the front roll center and counteracting the handling change of the -2 kickup. You could try it, but I don't think it would work as well. I'll machine some peices for you this week if I get a chance... no promises though.

Running the F block in the back with the R+3+2 or R+2+2 blocks will give you 0 kickup, take out 1 degree of toe and make the back slightly wider. I don't use any washers. I rarely ever run kickup in the back either. Mostly F and R+2+2 blocks.
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Old 01-19-2004, 05:57 PM   #7517
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Thanks Mike... apreaciate it if you could do that.

Mike Webb
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Old 01-19-2004, 09:18 PM   #7518
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DaveW: dint confuse me at all. I am pretty familiar with squat and kick but the added insight on how to convert the rear end is much appreciated. and the info on how the losi rear hubs affect handling are good inputs as well. i may just try swapping in some 0-degree hubs in for starters to see how the car handles (all else being the same). looks like i'll be running a tc3 again - 3 time for me! i just came from running a losi (which i enjoyed a lot) but i'll be giving the tc3 another shot. if i can break my personal records with the losi or even just match them, i'll be happy. but otherwise ive had good times with both cars.

Bubbletc3: thanks. i guess ill have to try it out to get a feel of how it affects handling. but thanks again for your insight.
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Last edited by ROBORAT; 01-19-2004 at 11:23 PM.
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Old 01-19-2004, 10:26 PM   #7519
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Default droop n ride hieght

Question for all the pros out there, I recently changed my front shock tower on my tc3 to a rear tower. Now with my shocks threaded all the way up i still have 6mm of ride hieght up front and cant go any lower, someone told me i could use the droop screws to pull the arms up but then my suspension wont have any downward travel. can anyone help me solve this?
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Old 01-20-2004, 12:12 AM   #7520
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scetchytc3:
try to extend the length of the shock-shafts,by unscrewing the ball cups.
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Old 01-20-2004, 05:58 AM   #7521
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Cut about 1/8" off of the shock ball end. This will allow the bottom spring cup to lower along with the ride height.
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:26 AM   #7522
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Default Re: Re: SPEEDO

Quote:
Originally posted by Speedo
Sounds like they worked pretty well for you, I may look into them.

I don't think you understood my question though, what I meant was, for example, if you had 40 wt all round, #2 pistons, and purple springs in your AE, shocks, when you changed to the Tamiya shocks, did you still use 40wt, #2's, and purple springs, or did you change something?

Josh
I use the 2 hole pistons for the front and rear, same oil, and springs. You may want to try 3 hole on the rear or a lighter oil, really depends on the track.

Basically, its like, switching the shock body, same oil, pistons and springs.

Peace and happy racing.
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Old 01-20-2004, 06:56 AM   #7523
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ROBORAT: I thought you used to run Losi, welcome back to AE! I hope your practice heats with the changes to the car give you info you can post here for the rest of us!

HORATIO: Man i hope you bring a candle too... we americans like fresh air when its our turn to use the "potty".

BRION SOHN: When you have pics available, make sure we know about it! There are alot of guys that would love to have a quality chassis for the TC3 that isnt capable of holding fish and water!

LEM2: Have you measured the pistons/holes that come with the Tamiya shocks to compare them in size to the ASC piston/holes? I am curious about the pistons' displacement. I remember running the MR4-TC years ago, the pistons that came with the car were small and black, and the holes were smaller, in comparison to the ASC pistons. The smaller YOK piston allowed more oil to pass between the shock body wall and the piston than the ASC pistons did. The holes in the ASC pistons were larger by comparison, but the shocks still seemed to have more pack than with the YOK pistons when compared with the same oils. Im just curious if the same thing is of the Tamiya shocks with ASC pistons in them.

- Dave
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:09 AM   #7524
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By the way, this is a PAIN IN THE A$$ without a drill press!

- Dave
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:44 AM   #7525
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So I take it the new Tamiya Flourine shocks fit the TC3? Also, whats a good standard setup for stock racing?
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Old 01-20-2004, 09:02 AM   #7526
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lee82gx, JWATT:

Thanks for the info... Both those are good solutions! I was wondering the same thing. I am a little surprised how simple the solution is and that I over thought the same problem...
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Old 01-20-2004, 09:18 AM   #7527
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
By the way, this is a PAIN IN THE A$$ without a drill press!

- Dave
Thats one of the cleanest ones ive seen, but if you get a bmi chassis you don't have to that!
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:04 AM   #7528
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What can I expect to gain by hacking my chassis like that?
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:29 AM   #7529
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Better weight distribution. Batteries are getting heavier, so moving them over as close to the centre is a good idea.

Craig Drescher does it - so it must be a good idea

You watch all these guys flame me now.......
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:35 AM   #7530
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Unhappy bad steering

during a recent race i had some problems turning sharp enough for some of the turns. thye car would turn too wide, and only a definite punch of the throttle would bring it around fast enough. i set my radio's endpoints all the way the rack would allow. i plan to switch to the ntc3 rack this week, but i still wonder what setups will allow sharper turning. i swapped back to the front tower, and used the middle hole #2 pistons 50 wt oil and blue springs in the front, with middle hole, silver springs, #2 piston and 50 wt oil in the rear, with no sway bars. droop and ride height are still stock. it was a VERY tight track. any ideas?
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