Originally posted by JJ187RC Anyone have a good starting point on a carpet setup fpr a TC3?
This is a pretty good place to start. I wouldn't make any drastic changes till you see how the car performs.
Purple springs front
Copper springs rear
4 deg caster
F-0 block front
3+2 block rear
std. shock towers shocks on outer holes (the most vertical)
camber links the longest and most horizontal
50W oil, 2 hole pistons
1 deg camber
.5 degrees toe-out, front
tires: either plaid/purple or double pink/double pink-orange
Originally posted by Speedo lem 2, what felt different about your car? Did you change oil, spring, or piston settings when you changed to Tamiya shocks?
I had a 414M for about a week, and when I built the shocks they were the best I'd ever seen.
I just tested it out last saturday.
The car transitions better, rolls better ( meaning once it rolls, it goes back faster ) these are just my observations. I got the idea from Nitro_JohnnyD at the BMI thread. You could also ask him since he's been using it for a long time.
I still use AE Springs, and the AE Shock Ends and Spring Retainer.
Originally posted by ROBORAT who here has tried using the losi rear hubs in the tc3? what exactly is being achieved by doing so? i know cyrul used to do this so he could set toe in at the hubs rather than using the arm mounts/holders to get toe. but he also had to eliminate the toe angles at the arms pivots by using an inner F block in the rear. if i still use the arm mounts to achieve toe angle and simply switch to 0-degree losi rear hubs, what changes in handling can i expect? and what ball stud should i use on the hubs, a silver or black stud? thanks in advance.
The rear Losi hubs give the car a little bit more rear traction(using the 0 degree hubs) because it changes the angle that the link is connected to the chassis, and alters the length of the link. When you run the inner hole on the hub, that is close to the outter hole on the Associated hubs. I stoped using the Losi hubs because one of the striped out and i had some extra Associated hubs lying around . When using the Losi hubs, I used the black ballstud because the hole is fitted in the rim.
Originally posted by DaveW
SPEEDO: Penguin R/C? Didnt they make a chassis for the TC3 a few years ago? Or am i thinking of someone else?
- Dave
Dave -
We have not made a chassis for this car yet... yet, because the testing on our prototype has been going extremely well infact this week it captured both the electric Stock and Modified ROAR Region 3 Championships in Knoxville in the hands of Mike Collins.
Originally posted by lem2 I just tested it out last saturday.
The car transitions better, rolls better ( meaning once it rolls, it goes back faster ) these are just my observations. I got the idea from Nitro_JohnnyD at the BMI thread. You could also ask him since he's been using it for a long time.
I still use AE Springs, and the AE Shock Ends and Spring Retainer.
Peace and Happy Racing!
Sounds like they worked pretty well for you, I may look into them.
I don't think you understood my question though, what I meant was, for example, if you had 40 wt all round, #2 pistons, and purple springs in your AE, shocks, when you changed to the Tamiya shocks, did you still use 40wt, #2's, and purple springs, or did you change something?
Brion Sohn: Thanks for the reply! You say prototype, is that an all new car by design? Is it a car combined of another kit and your chassis? There are alot of "chassis makers" out there nowadays... it would be good to see an all new, clean sheet design that rivaled the Barracuda R2/3. I dont mean this as an insult to any form of manufacturer out there, but just about anyone can slap TC3 parts to flat graphite of varying shapes! Do you have any pics of the car you are referring too? Congrats on the wins! Nothing feels better than seeing your hard work in the winners circle!
Roborat: Losi hubs do give you the option to move rear toe outboard of the arms. If your rear toe is adjusted outboard, instead of the inner rear arm hingepins, your car will rotate easier through corners, and give you more overall traction on and off power. Although the differences are moreso apparent in offroad racing, because of the rough track handling capable of outboard toe (and added shock extension), the differences CAN be felt in TC. Losi rear hubs are usually on the TC3 with the TC3 black ballstuds in the inner hole, the outer hole giving you more rear "bite", or depending on the width foams/tires you are using in the rear, you can add washers under the black ballstud, or use a silver ballstud, to adjust "bite" as well. As far as the angle added to the link by using the Losi hubs making any apparent change is debatable, i feel it does, but i have been doubted on its effect on other threads in the past. I will say this, if we can add .030 under a ballstud for bumpsteer and feel the change (which changes the angle of the link) then why couldnt you feel a change in link angle that is more than three times that amount?
As far as suspension mounts for zero toe in the back, assemble your front mounts (F-O and F) on the front of the car with pins, no suspension arms OR tranny cases, and measure pin height from the side of the car, front and back of the pins, where the pins meet the mount, in comparison with the lower chassis with your calipers to get dive/caster. Then from the top, measure between both pins front and back of the pin, to get toe. Make sure the measurements match (are even), and you will have zero toe and zero squat. Copy this on the back of the car with mounts that match, and you have zero toe and squat in the rear. Add washers if (and will be) needed. Add the outboard Losi toe in blocks and, there you go. If you decide to use rear squat or front antidive/caster in your pin mounts, then washers can be used to give added effect.
Keep in mind, adding washers under the STOCK blocks of equal measurement (i.e. .030) front and rear will lower the chassis to the track, causing you to add shock extension/droop to raise the car back to rideheight, but more importantly, will change overall handling of the car due to "roll center" change (changing weight effect of the chassis on the inner hingepins front and rear). The idea is to do this without excessive change to the stock measurements. I say "excessive" loosely. The idea is some bench time, a notebook and pen. I hope i didnt confuse ya...
I'll print it off and read it properly on the toilet ('bathroom' to you Americans!!)
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Originally posted by DaveW Brion Sohn: Thanks for the reply! You say prototype, is that an all new car by design? Is it a car combined of another kit and your chassis? There are alot of "chassis makers" out there nowadays... it would be good to see an all new, clean sheet design that rivaled the Barracuda R2/3. I dont mean this as an insult to any form of manufacturer out there, but just about anyone can slap TC3 parts to flat graphite of varying shapes! Do you have any pics of the car you are referring too? Congrats on the wins! Nothing feels better than seeing your hard work in the winners circle!
No, this is actually an upgrade chassis to the TC3 to improve on an already capable platform. There are a few other companies that produce TC3 Graphite upgrade kits but our intent is to improve on those as well as keeping a lower upgrade cost. We do testing beyond that of just slapping a graphite plate to make sure that we are creating an improvement over the existing car.
If you are familiar with our other products we tend to go beyond the normal copy cat aftermarket to create a essentially newly performing car out of existing parts.
Re: TC3 Carpet Setup
. When using the Losi hubs, I used the black ballstud because the hole is fitted in the rim.
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