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Old 01-09-2004, 05:17 PM   #7396
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Try this:

tire size (diameter)
x 3.1416
x pinion
div. spur
div. 2.5 (final drive for TC3)
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Old 01-10-2004, 10:52 AM   #7397
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im gonna order some upgrades and parts for the tc3 soon. any suggestions for some upgrades i should get?

i already have whatevers incl in the team kit.
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Old 01-10-2004, 01:33 PM   #7398
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Does anyone make a adaptor for the touring cars on the cobra ac tire turer? i didnt see any list on tower for them,, i like to use this turer if i can ,, i use it with my oval cars and have all the other adaptors for them. so if someone can give me some links to a place , picture and a price that be great

the guy that made the gear chart ,, NICE,,

thanks
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:55 AM   #7399
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Is anyone still running an old school carbon driveshaft? I have three of them, two are twisted from running mod (junk), but the third one is not twisted. I have been using it in some testing on high bite conditions to try and make the car smoother and not so unforgiving in high bite situations. This is for stock and 19T, not mod. With stock/19T, you usually get to run an overall looser diff setting (F/R) than if you run mod, providing you with a car that transfers traction more readily from one wheel to the next (and a car that doesnt work your batteries and motor as hard). I noticed with a Titanium main driveshaft, and the diffs looser than mod setting, the car would have a tendency to drive square around the corner. Like the transfer of bite wasnt smooth from front to back. All i changed the next run was a battery and the driveshaft to the old stock carbon shaft, and the car no longer wiggled or felt inconsistent when on and off power in and out of the corners. Just wondered if anyone else has noticed anything like this? I know the norm is to run a stiff main shaft, but the car felt better to me without it in this situation.

- Dave
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Old 01-11-2004, 09:29 AM   #7400
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Quote:
Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
im gonna order some upgrades and parts for the tc3 soon. any suggestions for some upgrades i should get?

i already have whatevers incl in the team kit.
Adjustable shocks- They dont work ant better than non adjuatable ones but your setup will be better due to how easy it makes adjuatments.

It depends alot also on what class you run. For stock ya want it lighter and for mods you want it stronger.
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Old 01-11-2004, 02:48 PM   #7401
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
Is anyone still running an old school carbon driveshaft? I have three of them, two are twisted from running mod (junk), but the third one is not twisted. I have been using it in some testing on high bite conditions to try and make the car smoother and not so unforgiving in high bite situations. This is for stock and 19T, not mod. With stock/19T, you usually get to run an overall looser diff setting (F/R) than if you run mod, providing you with a car that transfers traction more readily from one wheel to the next (and a car that doesnt work your batteries and motor as hard). I noticed with a Titanium main driveshaft, and the diffs looser than mod setting, the car would have a tendency to drive square around the corner. Like the transfer of bite wasnt smooth from front to back. All i changed the next run was a battery and the driveshaft to the old stock carbon shaft, and the car no longer wiggled or felt inconsistent when on and off power in and out of the corners. Just wondered if anyone else has noticed anything like this? I know the norm is to run a stiff main shaft, but the car felt better to me without it in this situation.

- Dave
I have noticed a little difference when running the carbon shaft, but I am pretty sure that it is mental. Although right now I am using the alum. shaft, I still feel as though the car is a little faster and more consistant lap to lap with the carbon shaft, but I don't want to waste the last five or so that I have.

Would the transfer of torque have anything to do with this? I was thinking about this, and assuming that the carbon shaft DOES twist slightly under power, the rear diff would have a quicker reaction to acceleration and breaking and might give more steering, and might be a little more predictable.
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Old 01-11-2004, 03:10 PM   #7402
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
Is anyone still running an old school carbon driveshaft? I have three of them, two are twisted from running mod (junk), but the third one is not twisted. I have been using it in some testing on high bite conditions to try and make the car smoother and not so unforgiving in high bite situations. This is for stock and 19T, not mod. With stock/19T, you usually get to run an overall looser diff setting (F/R) than if you run mod, providing you with a car that transfers traction more readily from one wheel to the next (and a car that doesnt work your batteries and motor as hard). I noticed with a Titanium main driveshaft, and the diffs looser than mod setting, the car would have a tendency to drive square around the corner. Like the transfer of bite wasnt smooth from front to back. All i changed the next run was a battery and the driveshaft to the old stock carbon shaft, and the car no longer wiggled or felt inconsistent when on and off power in and out of the corners. Just wondered if anyone else has noticed anything like this? I know the norm is to run a stiff main shaft, but the car felt better to me without it in this situation.

- Dave
I still use the carbon shaft, and will probably stick with it. I have a couple of backups, though I have never twisted or broken one, even running mod on high bite carpet (though I have only run mod in this situation for like 6 or 7 runs). I have never actually had an alluminum shaft in my car.

What I am wondering is what everyone's experience with the composite cvds. I have been running plastic in the rear and steel in the front, mostly. Last week, I noticed that the steel cvds had hairline cracks from the cup inward, so I changed them to the composite cvds. Now, just yesterday, I ran the composites all around in my car and they performed pretty well. The funny thing about the composite cvds is that they wear 3 times better than the blue ones.
My only concern at this point is that they most likely twist under load, and I am a nut about precise acceleration. Has anyone done any comparisons between the two? I don't want to buy any alluminum cvd's if it is not neccesary.
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Old 01-11-2004, 04:56 PM   #7403
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Well I just finished building my FTTC3 on Sunday. I must say it is an impressive looking thing Has not turned a wheel in anger yet.

Noticed a few strange things however.

1. Several of my blue screws did not have a complete thread cut into them, it finished part way down the screw body.

2. The inner lower hingepin mounts are made from what looks to be very soft plastic. Any durability or wear issues on this?

3. The arms and diff cases (carbon stuff) had fairly large moulding runners attached to them. When I broke them off (as opposed to cutting them) they took a big ole chunk of my arms away with them. Did not affect the arm itself but still annoying.

4. If you build it without playing with bearings and the diff cases the drivetrain is quite stiff, in fact my 3 belt nitro car and XRAY built smoother initially. Of course this will change when I do some massaging, but I thought this was interesting.

Can't wait to get this thing onto the track tho, apart from these few extremely minor points (all cars have em ) this car looks GREAT!
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Old 01-11-2004, 06:00 PM   #7404
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hey man, cool so you finally got it built,

well here:
number 1: not sure
2: yes soft so those go and not the hinge pins or arms,
although, i have never broken or worn out any
3: yes I know what you mean
4: yep, that is why i gave long explanation to you, also, you need to get the polished hidge pins. part #1651
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Old 01-11-2004, 06:08 PM   #7405
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what should i do to take care of my bearings?

Can you guys give me some suggestions.
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Old 01-11-2004, 07:24 PM   #7406
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Quote:
Originally posted by BIGDON18
Does anyone make a adaptor for the touring cars on the cobra ac tire turer? i didnt see any list on tower for them,, i like to use this turer if i can ,, i use it with my oval cars and have all the other adaptors for them. so if someone can give me some links to a place , picture and a price that be great

the guy that made the gear chart ,, NICE,,

thanks
BIGDN
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I got mine from www.stormerhobbies.com they carry Cobra arbors.

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Old 01-11-2004, 07:51 PM   #7407
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dougnuts55
what should i do to take care of my bearings?

Can you guys give me some suggestions.
I soak my bearings in motor spray for one to two hours, then spray them out again. By allowing them to soak for some time, it loosens the grease/oils that are in the bearing, then flushing out the stuff when you spray the bearings the second time. After the bearings are "dry", then you would want to re-lube them with a thin oil, make sure it is an oil for bearings, and not stock motor bushing oil, that stuff is too thick.
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Old 01-11-2004, 07:53 PM   #7408
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hrrmmmm...interesting, that is basically, exactly what I said earlier
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:04 PM   #7409
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW

MikeWebb: Wasnt Barry a big help last year?! I think i bugged him enough for two people!


- Dave
Barry was a hugh help last year. Maybe I will pick on someone else this year .

This Weekend My car was hooked up but I hit a wall and broke a c-hub. I fixed that and knowticed that my foam tires where Coning so I trued them all to 58mm. Went out for my First Qualifier and the rear end of my car just spun out going around ever turn. I checked my Droop and the balance of the car and everything was fine. Usually in the Front my arms are adjusted so that the spring rest right up against the collar. In the Rear there is maybe 1-2mm of play where the Springs drops below the collar. I made sure that was alright and the same thing happened again for the second qualifier. then I knowticed I was using the New Jaco wheels. I put a brand new set of Foam Tires on the car cut to 60mm and the car was hooked up again.

What is the minimum diameter you can go with these newer Jaco Tires. Last year at snowbirds I was traction Rolling in Stock Class and I fixed that by running 56-57mm tires. I would hate to have the rear end swap again because now all I have are 8 sets of the New Jaco Tires.

Mike Webb
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:09 PM   #7410
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Yeah, I guess, but I tried to go a little bit more "indepth" for what I do, yet I do this about once every three or so months, you replied "weekly."

This has also proabably been answered a few more times on this forum in the past 247 pages

I guess the rule of thumb would be to clean them, the lube them for less wear. Correct?

Sorry Mike if I was trying to steal your glory
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