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Old 01-05-2004, 05:53 AM   #7321
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Default Broken Parts

HI

I'm from Singapore and I race the TC3. I've stock up some parts including c hubs, shock towers, a arms and turn buckles etc...

However, murphy's got it and I just broke my rear A Arm which I did not have any spares.

Can't even find them here and it will take ages for it to come thru the internet.

Anyone tried using any tamiya arms as replacement? Which one will fit?

Thanks for any advice.

Pls PM if possible.

Cheers

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Old 01-05-2004, 06:08 AM   #7322
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You normally have to superglue the sidewalls of the tires at big races as well as cutting them down (to keep from traction rolling). The new Jaco rims are slightly larger so make a note of it when you cut them down. And I hear that trinity guys narrow their 30mm rims down to 28mm using a razor blade or equivilent while the tire is on the truer.
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Old 01-05-2004, 07:32 AM   #7323
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Default Re: Broken Parts

Quote:
Originally posted by RC1q2w3e4r
HI

I'm from Singapore and I race the TC3. I've stock up some parts including c hubs, shock towers, a arms and turn buckles etc...

However, murphy's got it and I just broke my rear A Arm which I did not have any spares.

Can't even find them here and it will take ages for it to come thru the internet.

Anyone tried using any tamiya arms as replacement? Which one will fit?

Thanks for any advice.

Pls PM if possible.

Cheers

no other arms would fit except AE arms. try rcmodel.com good luck, it will also be a good idea to have alum arms as back up, and use nerf wings!!
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Old 01-05-2004, 07:57 AM   #7324
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Default Losi Parts

Hey has anyone tried to run the Losi 6 degree front blocks and 6 degree steering knuckles. I heard they are suppose to be stronger and have more steering throw.
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:00 AM   #7325
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
You normally have to superglue the sidewalls of the tires at big races as well as cutting them down (to keep from traction rolling). The new Jaco rims are slightly larger so make a note of it when you cut them down. And I hear that trinity guys narrow their 30mm rims down to 28mm using a razor blade or equivilent while the tire is on the truer.

the trinity guys are cutting down the 30's because of clearance problems on the front of the losi cars.

and if youm run the front shocks in the inner hole on the front arm of a TC3 you will not have to cut them either.
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:14 AM   #7326
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Default dennis/ losi parts

i run the losi front uprights with the AE steering knuckles, i have been pleased the fit and the performance. try the 4 degree losi upright, standard AE steering knuckle with 0 degree kick-up. that's what i've been running in Knoxville all season. a lot of guys there are running the 4 degree with 2 degrees kick-up.

you can also try the losi steering knuckle but be prepared to adjust the toe and radio trim, you'll gain about 3 degree's toe out on each side with the losi knuckle.
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:24 AM   #7327
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I know mod guys really cut the sidewalls low (overall tire size) for traction rolling reasons. I have noticed tires that are SLIGHTLY bigger give you a "cushy" ride in stock class, but really hurt you in the faster classes. I have tried the super glue on the sidewall trick, and it is kinda hard to get consistent from pair to pair. (for me anyways) I just make sure i round the sidewalls really well on the truer, so transfer to sidewall from the contact patch isnt a noticeable change. If they arent rounded well, the car will seem to snap on the sidewalls, and be inconsistent. After the whole rim size discussion earlier, does anyone have the measurements (diameter) of a TRC rim and JACO rim for comparison? (i buy JACO only) 2.350 is 2.350 in overall tire size regardless of the rim size, but one would have less rubber than the other, and handle differently. I remember hearing alot of guys at the Birds last year ran 30MM rear and 28MM front, running zero toe in the rear of the car. As Davepull mentioned earlier, i wonder if it was mostly the Losi's doing it to avoid shock clearance issues.

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Old 01-05-2004, 09:23 AM   #7328
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Does anyone know who makes a nice sway bar mount for the TC3? The stock system sucks... I did see a trick mount at the Cleveland race but the guy only knew that it came from Japan.
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Old 01-05-2004, 10:04 AM   #7329
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Default setup help please

i'm getting into racing at the local hobby shop were all the fast guys run losi. the few guys that run tc3's don't seem to be able to get their setups as well balanced as the xxxs are at the track. the tc3 guys' setup seem be too soft for running rubber tires on a small indoor carpet track. most of the setups i can find online are for foam tires or asphalt. any help on a base/starting setup for rubber tires on carpet be greatly appreaciated.
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Old 01-05-2004, 10:12 AM   #7330
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Default Aluminum diff help

Hey guys,

I need some help here. I built a car thats made for Mod and so I put aluminum diffs in it. The front is an IRS and it is locked and working fine. In the back I have a hardcore racing alum diff and this is the problem diff. right now. When its anywhere near tight it has a tight spot in it. And even when the screw is 100% locked down-it still slips quite easily.

I rebuilt it and checked everything I know, but to no avail.

Do any of you have any experience with the Hardcore alum diff to say whats-up here? Also-it has been carefull modified to accept d-rings-so its not the diff rings slipping.

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 01-05-2004, 10:20 AM   #7331
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Quote:
Originally posted by mike_Webb
I was losing about 1mm of Tire wear after each run.

Seriously??? I've never lost that much racing, even at 2002 & 2003 cleveland indoor champs. Most I've ever lost on a run was like 1/4-1/2 mm and that's on a super-sticky track.
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:02 AM   #7332
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Quote:
Originally posted by ottoman
Does anyone know who makes a nice sway bar mount for the TC3? The stock system sucks... I did see a trick mount at the Cleveland race but the guy only knew that it came from Japan.
Square RC makes them, Iuse them andthey are great!
http://www.rc-square.com/parts24.htm
part number STC-18

u canget them at rainbowten.co.jp
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Old 01-05-2004, 01:33 PM   #7333
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Losi blocks...

Losi and AE steering blocks do not have the same geometry and there is nothing you can do to match it, its just different ackerman. Its a little more agressive I have found, however they are defently more durable. And I normally run losi 6 degree castor blocks, F-0 front block, and losi steering knuckles. And I run losi rear hubs, since they are alot more adjustble and more durable (which is generally true for all losi parts, lol).


Now for my question! lol...

Does anyone know if there is a shock tower out there that is more adjustable? Like the Ratzas losi one or an Xray one with more shock and camber link options? thanks!
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Old 01-05-2004, 03:10 PM   #7334
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Default Re: Aluminum diff help

Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Hey guys,

I need some help here. I built a car thats made for Mod and so I put aluminum diffs in it. The front is an IRS and it is locked and working fine. In the back I have a hardcore racing alum diff and this is the problem diff. right now. When its anywhere near tight it has a tight spot in it. And even when the screw is 100% locked down-it still slips quite easily.

I rebuilt it and checked everything I know, but to no avail.

Do any of you have any experience with the Hardcore alum diff to say whats-up here? Also-it has been carefull modified to accept d-rings-so its not the diff rings slipping.

Thanks,
Ray
I know that when the ae diff thrust spring gets kind of old, it has a tendency to do something similar to what your hc diff is doing...
Also, if it has bushings/berrings, check to make sure that they are the correct dimentions(not too wide, then not enough tension on the diff balls and then sliping occurs)

I don't run Hardcore diff's, but if I were in your position, that is what I would put my attention towards...
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Old 01-05-2004, 03:27 PM   #7335
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
Losi blocks...

Losi and AE steering blocks do not have the same geometry and there is nothing you can do to match it, its just different ackerman. Its a little more agressive I have found, however they are defently more durable. And I normally run losi 6 degree castor blocks, F-0 front block, and losi steering knuckles. And I run losi rear hubs, since they are alot more adjustble and more durable (which is generally true for all losi parts, lol).


Now for my question! lol...

Does anyone know if there is a shock tower out there that is more adjustable? Like the Ratzas losi one or an Xray one with more shock and camber link options? thanks!
I tried a Losi shocktower on my TC3(kind of like what Josh had on his TC3...), just for the wide post's in the rear. Depending on how high, or how low you mount the Losi tower on the car, you can acheive almost the same shock positions(plus the outter hole on the Losi tower) that would be on the standard TC3 rear tower. I would guess that you can use the losi camber links positions(just to try out for more adjustments) on the tower, but I cut them off.

I have been wanting to try out the RaySpeed shocktower for the Yokomo SD, but havn't had time to "adapt" it to the TC3...(even WIDER body posts!!!)

I wanted to try out the X-Ray EVO2 rear tower on my car for a while, yet have not had the time.
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