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Old 12-08-2003, 09:08 AM   #7126
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Big Dog Racing:

Where I race, TC3's regularly whip Tamiyas - especially last season. I will say that the TC3 can seem a little 'nervous' to drive if you're used to a Mission, Axis, Xray, Yok etc or other belt driven cars.

The TC3 is a very responsive car and when set-up/driven correctly can have a distinct 'edge' over other popular cars. The Evo 3 is a fine car too, but from my experience I wouldn't say it had anything over the TC3.

What kind of a track do you race on?
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Old 12-08-2003, 09:20 AM   #7127
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
Big Dog Racing:

Where I race, TC3's regularly whip Tamiyas - especially last season. I will say that the TC3 can seem a little 'nervous' to drive if you're used to a Mission, Axis, Xray, Yok etc or other belt driven cars.

The TC3 is a very responsive car and when set-up/driven correctly can have a distinct 'edge' over other popular cars. The Evo 3 is a fine car too, but from my experience I wouldn't say it had anything over the TC3.

What kind of a track do you race on?
I love my TC3. I have a BMI chassis with all the fixins and it's a great car. However, lately I started looking at the XRAY EVO2 and the quality of the components is absolutely amazing. I will stick with my cerrent setup but remain impressed with XRAY's attention to detail. As far as driving and handling, I can't comment.

Just my 2 cents,
John
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Old 12-08-2003, 10:41 AM   #7128
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One of my racing buddies raced a TC3 all last season indoors on carpet (just as I did) and did pretty well. At the end of the season, I managed to stay just ahead of him on points, though to be fair I had the advantage in that as I attended more rounds, I was able to drop more of my worst scores than he was. I finished 2nd overall, he was 3rd.

Over the summer, he changed to an Xray and competed in a larger championship series at London clubs, on Tarmac. He informed me the racing was faster (as they were running modifieds) and that he found the car quicker than the TC3. (don't flame me ok - I haven't finished yet).

Well, whilst I accept that he has improved as a driver during all that touring car driving during the summer, he came back to our Indoor Winter Series and guess what? The same drivers seem to be able to beat him now as they did last year ;o)

My change-over to a Yokomo SD has been hardwork so far. It's taken me 4 race meetings worth of racing to get the car up to the same pace as my TC3. Hours and hours of work.

The TC3 on the other hand will just plop out of the box and work very well.

Xray touring cars are superbly engineered and are extremely tough. Looking at an Xray next to a standard TC3 on pit table, it's easy to feel a little envy. But this soon evapourates when you realise that the TC3 more than holds it's own on the track.

Horses for courses
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Old 12-08-2003, 10:58 AM   #7129
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guys,
what are the advantages of running an Alum shaft compared to the carbon one? Is this related to track condition? doh TIA.
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:02 AM   #7130
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Quote:
Originally posted by GTO2
guys,
what are the advantages of running an Alum shaft compared to the carbon one? Is this related to track condition? doh TIA.
Also, I believe AE no longer makes the carbon or graphite (whatever they are/were) shafts. What are the lightest alternatives out there?

Thanks,
John
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:03 AM   #7131
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Carbon propshaft is lighter, though some claim it can twist under load. Not a problem if you run stock.

The Alloy items are heavier, but are nice and blue. Perhaps if your track has inclines, the stored energy of the heavier rotating alloy propshaft will help you lose less momentum.

Personally, I'd go with the carbon shaft.
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:07 AM   #7132
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No idea on that...
Mine comes with the carbon/graphite shaft.
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:11 AM   #7133
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
Carbon propshaft is lighter, though some claim it can twist under load. Not a problem if you run stock.

The Alloy items are heavier, but are nice and blue. Perhaps if your track has inclines, the stored energy of the heavier rotating alloy propshaft will help you lose less momentum.

Personally, I'd go with the carbon shaft.
Spooling?
I sense that it has soemthing to do with track size/layout?
Aluminium shaft goes with the big track/more flowing, less momentum loss?
Yes?
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Old 12-08-2003, 11:28 AM   #7134
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futureal call me you got pm i have a location for k factory.
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Old 12-08-2003, 12:42 PM   #7135
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GT02:

I reckon under most track conditions, the lighter the transmission is, the faster the car is going be. Lower rotating mass = better acceleration, speed and just as importantly deceleration (later braking points).

A heavier propshaft will use more energy to get going (slower acceleration and overall speed) and require more energy to stop it (earlier braking points). With fullsize race cars, sometimes a heavier flywheel aids the engine/momentum of the car if a circuit has inclines & climbs etc but this compromises the performance on the flatter parts of the track.

With R/C touring car circuits, they generally tend to be very flat, so I wouldn't imagine a heavier propshaft would have any advantage at all. The main reason why people use alloy items is because they are less prone to loading up/twisting under extreme loads. In stock racing, Carbon is fine - mine has performed faultlessly for 2 seasons. In modified racing, it seems some racers have experienced problems with the Carbon shafts.

That said, the few times I used an 11 double in my TC3, the shaft did just fine.

Take your pick................
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Old 12-08-2003, 01:05 PM   #7136
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Default shaft

since AE stopped making the carbon shaft, what other carbon/lightweight alternatives are there? i already know Yokomo makes one. who else?
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Old 12-08-2003, 01:35 PM   #7137
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As I understand it the Yokomo part for the TC3 uses alloy ends joined to a carbon shaft.

I thought the racer spec TC3's still are being produced with carbon propshafts?

In which case the Carbon Shafts must still be 'around'. Or am I wrong on this?
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Old 12-08-2003, 01:48 PM   #7138
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Default TC3 CVD and Outdrive Question

If you want to spend a little cash, I just purchased the niftech pinned outdrives and notched diff rings. Along with that, I also purchased their inner diff assembly. From Acerracing, I purchased the ceramic diffballs for the whole assembly. Although Niftech didn't recommend the ceramic balls, I installed them anyway. I found my diff to be EXTREEEEMLY smooth, and it helped my setup considerably.

I've also tried the IRS composit dogbones. My recommendation...don't do it. Whenever I rubbed the wall it broke where the pin attaches to the outdrive. I upgraded to the IRS Big DAWG bones and have not had a problem since.

I had the steel outdrives before my niftech purchase, so I definately lightend my drivetrain, however I'm sure it's not as lite as it would be if I had composit components.

My2cents. (but w/niftech, it's more like 4cents.)
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Old 12-08-2003, 03:42 PM   #7139
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Quote:
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
mike why is your front droop only 1.5 and your front ride height higher than the back. What does that do?

Oh ya, I forgot, the front droop was measured where you put the set screw into the spindle. So it is more like 4.5 i think. Also, the ride height just makes the car somewhat lazy when starting out in the raceday, to see what the track conditions are like. I usually change it to 5 and 5 or 4.5 in front and 5 in back.
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Old 12-08-2003, 06:04 PM   #7140
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Horatio:
thanks for the explanation dude.
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