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Old 12-01-2003, 02:02 PM   #7051
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crACkeD ChaSsiS.

double check your diff assemblies....spinning...don't worry about that to much. there's to much hype about having a 5,10, whatever spinning drivetrain.
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Old 12-01-2003, 03:30 PM   #7052
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Speedyphatt:

No worries! You still have my utmost respect

And d'ya know what? Sleep is for girls Like me you must like to burn the candle at both ends, heheheh.

Carry on the great work. And all you TC3 guys take note: you're lucky to have this geezer on the thread

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Old 12-01-2003, 03:42 PM   #7053
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Speedyphatt:

What advantage do you reckon is there to be had using after market chassis where the motor is placed on the opposite side (like on the Barracuda)?

I've always theorised that the motor on the TC3 was on the correct side because the torque effect of the motor helped counter the weight of the batteries. I've probably got this all arse about face but I'd like to hear your view on this.

Everybody else:

What does everyone else think about this? Which side is the optimum side to have the motor on a shaft driven car?
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Old 12-01-2003, 03:58 PM   #7054
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Thanks for the replies on the TC3 clamping hex adaptors.
They are new for the TC3,I seen them in a magazine somewhere.Trying to relocate the article to find out who was making them.
If anyone ones across a name brand or an online site to buy them let me know.

Thanks for your time
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Old 12-01-2003, 05:19 PM   #7055
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i agree with you horatio.i dont think these guys take that into consideration when running a shaftdrive car.i make an aftermarket chassis for the tc3 and did testing on this.you are right.the motor transfers weight to the outside of the car with the motor on the reverse side.if the chassis in incredibly stiff,it can make it almost hard to tell but it will still have its moments where you find yourself in the wall
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Old 12-01-2003, 06:28 PM   #7056
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Default Re: body posts

Quote:
Originally posted by tc3rookie
i had a minor problem with the rear bodyposts. i don't know if i got hit or something but the posts came off the shock tower during my heat. the body dragged all race and i put some bigger screws in to hold it the rest of the race day but i was wondering if anybody else has have had any problems with this and if there are any fixes for it. i have the posts mounted on the rear of the tower. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanx.
On one of my cars, I used some shock mounting screws(the screw for holding the shock to the shock tower), and ran it all the way through the body post and then placed a metal nut on the end so that the post is more ridged and will not come off. That happened to me at the HITEC race a few month's ago.
Super glue also is another fix to the problem, as PHATT said earlier.
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Old 12-01-2003, 08:53 PM   #7057
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcmotorhead
Thanks for the replies on the TC3 clamping hex adaptors.
They are new for the TC3,I seen them in a magazine somewhere.Trying to relocate the article to find out who was making them.
If anyone ones across a name brand or an online site to buy them let me know.

Thanks for your time
yokomo has made these for a while and associated just started to make thier own. here is a link to some tobiecraft ones at speedtech.http://www.sslorder.com/speedtechrc/185.html
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:28 PM   #7058
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Default carpet set up

front

f 2 block 4 deg carrier 1.5 camber
use front tower
camber links down and in
0 deg tow
shocks
yellow spring #2 pistion 40wt
mount all the way ot on the tower and inside hole on the arm
5 droop 5mm ride height
.075 buds sway bar

rear
2+0 block 1.5 camber
camber links down and in
shocks
copper spring #2 pistion 40 wt
middle hole on tower out hole on arm
3 droop 5mm ride height
stock .063 bar

battery forward
tires
30mm plaid or cyan TRC front
30mm purple rear

trinty zipfree or paragon tire traction

protoform alpha or the losi alpha

hope this helps
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Old 12-01-2003, 09:48 PM   #7059
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Ya know I have been thinking about this alot lately. I was wondering what to do when I wore out my chassis. Weather or not I was going to get an aftermarket CF one or get a new associated one and spent a day or two milling it out like I like it. So i was checking out the aftermarket kits and there is only two that interest me the Warpspeed and the BMI. Both of them with the motor on the opposite sides. So I read through both forums here and the Warpspeed guys , who have the motor on the left definately seemed to see an advantage to having it that way. Nobody on the BMI forum really said much about it. But thiers is on the traditional right side so there was no difference for them when they converted over. I just thing they didnt notice a change that didnt happen. I know one of the BMI drivers from my home track and he is new to the TC3. he had a Baracuda before and that has ithe motor on the left also. He did say he noticed it from his Baracuda to the TC3. And that he liked the batteries better on the right Here is why I think that is. the motor as looking at the car from the rear in both sinarios spins counterclockwise. So the inertia or torque it makes spinning that way causes weight to be more transfered to the left side of the car. Now that seems opposite when ya think about it. You would think that with the armature spinning counterclockwise looking from the back that it would torque down to the right, But think how much an armature weighs compared to the drivetrain wich is spinning he opposite direction clockwise and applying more forces to the left The side that the batteries are normaly on. Thats the whole torque steer thing cuz the weight goes to the left under acceleration. So I think that the traditional way the batteries are being pushed down by this force being helped by gravity. But the nontraditional way with the batteries on the right those same forces have to lift the batteries up and fight gravity. So I think that there is a slight advantage to having the batteries switched and on the right. Just because of gravity is pulling down on one side of the chassis during the roll and is fighting it in the opposite way on the other side. So this is the heavy part. so with the batteries on the right when the chassis is rolling and the torque forces of the motor are being applied the batteries dense mass It is actually planting the right side of the car more and causing an all around downforce affect to the chassis. But I think this is a very very slight affect and here is why. We all balance our cars out equally right? I personally weigh mine with a scale to check right to left and front to rear weight balance and then I set the tweak so the chassis weight is equal anyhow and the electronics plus wieght I add to the car is the same as the batteries in the big picture. But the electronics and weight is more spread out. Thats why i think it has an advantage.because of the batterys dense mass. Im sorry Ive been thinking about this alot.
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Last edited by Speedie; 12-01-2003 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 12-02-2003, 05:15 AM   #7060
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Very well said!!
The barracuda guys here in P.I. says the same thing, the counterclockwise rotation of the Armature will be balanced by the shaft turning in a clockwise direction. As opposed to having the motor on the right side. The force/inertia being produced by the rotation of the shaft and armature is being concentrated a little off midline which "some say" produce torque steer. Which is still debateable up to now.

If you notice, the Warp cars have the batteries not that close to the shaft, if it goes any closer, torque steer will occur.

BMI's chassis was supposed to be my Christmas Gift but, my daughters Transfusion took it away maybe until Valentines? hehehehehehe

On the other hand: BMI battery location is very close to the shaft which counter acts the force that the arm and shaft produce, thus making it also a very well balanced car, in my opinion. I can say this because when I milled my Graphite Chassis making the batts very close to the shaft-- it made the car feel more balanced. That is why I opted for the Warp Car, since (in my opinion) the feel of the BMI would "almost" be like having a milled chassis. And the fact that they realeased it much later than the Warp.

(note: when I milled the chassis I had a top deck and side braces to make it stiff)

Anyways, it would be best to own the two cars to make a better, unbiased comparison (that's why I want a BMI. hehehehe) Nevertheless, what's important is your driving skills regardless of left or right battery/motor position, after all you will be accustomed to driving one after a few runs!

Me-thinking a loud!

Peace and Happy Racing!! Merry Christmas!

Last edited by lem2; 12-02-2003 at 05:23 AM.
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Old 12-02-2003, 05:42 AM   #7061
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SpeediePHATT:
i think u got ur stuff the wrong way.
Listen to this:
as the motor accelerates counterclockwise,it is 1st considered as a seperate rigid body,while the car is another rigid body.bcos for an infinitesemal time , the motor accelerates in relation to the car.
therefore there is a downward force acting on the car(via contact from pinion-spur).
now notice that this force is on the right side of the car's central axis.
And if there is a force which acts on a rigid body that is not directed towards the center of mass OF that rigid body,there will be rotation(angular acceleration).A placement of batteries on the right side(which makes this mass/weight FURTHER FROM THE CENTRAL AXIS) WILL create a larger MOMENT OF INERTIA against this torque and will negate the rotational force.
So IMHO i think it's right for the batteries to be placed on the left side.
U can counter argue about the deceleration of the motor as a reason to put the batteries on the right,but deceleration wise,the torque is not as great as acceleration.

This is an argument,opening to criticism,please feel free to flame(to a certain extent )
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Old 12-02-2003, 06:16 AM   #7062
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Very well explained. But doesnt this also happen if the motor is on the left side?
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Old 12-02-2003, 06:29 AM   #7063
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well if the motor were to be on the left side,counter clockwise accel means upward force=counterclockwise roll.placing the batteries on the right side would mean that the weight of the batteries itself x the distance from the central axis = a ccw moment also.meaning it would induce more roll.

would u agree???
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Old 12-02-2003, 08:08 AM   #7064
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Yea I do agree. I thought that tho the heavier spinning center shaft would overcome that tho. I put my car on the my wifes cooking scale so I could see the changes. I put it level with the wheels off and the scale on the outside edge on one side and a level stand on the other. I saw a noticalbe twist to the right like you said. The shaft spinning must not afect it at all as it seemed the same with the pinion off and on. This change witch was about 30 grams only lasted for a split second I dont even thing it was for a half a second and that was starting from a complete stop. When I tried it with about half throttle and gunning it was barely noticeable. So it seems to me that all this is sort of a non-issue unless your starting from a stop like on a restart. I guess if we are going through a corner slow enough for this to come into play we need more help than just a reconfigured chassis. So the batteries on the left would then be right(hehe). So we should just balance it set the tweak and go run it. I dont want to think about it any more my head hurts. Thanks for discussing this with me tho. How else am I gonna get it all straight.
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Old 12-02-2003, 08:13 AM   #7065
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcmotorhead
Thanks for the replies on the TC3 clamping hex adaptors.
They are new for the TC3,I seen them in a magazine somewhere.Trying to relocate the article to find out who was making them.
If anyone ones across a name brand or an online site to buy them let me know.

Thanks for your time
Integy
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