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Old 01-08-2002, 07:45 PM   #691
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anyone here tried the megatech front oneway for the tc3? i saw 2 versions in america's hobby center website - one with a 4x8 bearing, the other with a 6x10 bearing. are they similar to the original associated one-way? what is the difference between the 2 versions, other than the size of the bearing? are they complete sets that just drop in the front gearbox to replace the front diff? or do i need to buy anything else to make it work? thanks for any info
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Old 01-09-2002, 12:50 AM   #692
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Hi:

The last weekend went some friends to 'degrease' hands and run some packs at our local racetrack.

It happened me a strange thing, it was the first day that my new FTTC3 was on the track (hey TA guys, it's my sixth TC3 and my third FT, what about a 'discount' on the next unit? :-D ).

I assembled, as usual very carefully (yes, I've spent some days deburring pieces and assembling to ensure that all works of from the first pack and installing some hop ups (#3906 BB, IRS input shafts, Trinity spur adaptor & center BB holder )...

All the car was perfectly trimed and as usual i put some setup that worked fine for the conditions of the track (parts of the track were humid and a little dirty bcause nothing run at the track for several days).

This was my setup:
Front:
Gold Springs with 50wt oil, piston shock #2.
2 caster blocks.
F-0 front A-arm support brace (0 kickup).
2 camber.
Upper shock position: outer hole.
Stock position for the camber rod.
Droop at #3.
No sway bar
Ball Diff

Rear:
Silver Springs with 50wt oil, piston shock #1.
R2-2 Rear A-arm support brace (2 toe-in and 2 kick-up).
2 camber.
Upper shock position: center.
Stock position for the camber rod.
Droop at #5.
No sway bar
Ball Diff

For tyres, I choosed some 24mm ProLines 1095 H13 with Yokomo ZR-037-S for the fronts and stock blue foam as inserts.

The car was stable, but the grip of the rear was really bad. On high speed turns, the car came loose at the rears and on hairpins, braking gently I was loosing the grip at all on some turns the car was pushing a lot for the front (understeer, specially when exiting from the first turn of an 'S'). I tested using some Red Dot and Tyre tweak and the things got slightly better and getting more grip until the tyres got some temp (usually 2 or three complete turns to the track).

The track conditions were this:
Ambient temp: 14C
Track temp: 5C
No wind.
Some parts of the track were humid.

Well, I'm accepting some suggestions to that setup in order to improve it. What about shorting and moving outwards the rear caster rod?

P.D: Seems strange that in the time the TC3 is out, TA doesn't launched a foam brace for the front bumper...
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Old 01-09-2002, 07:41 AM   #693
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Corse-R,

Looking at your setup and hearing about the handling, I would suggest the following changes:

Go to the F+2 front block to lower the weight transfer to the front, thus lessening the rear unloading and adding traction to the rear in the corners.

Move your front shock to the middle and move the camber link up and in for more overall traction. The longer the camber link, the more traction in will generate. Also, increase your droop to 5 for asphault.

For the rear, we took steps to add traction back to the car in the front, but I would suggest this:

Go back to the 3+2 rear block. The additional 1 degree of toe in will add more traction to the rear during cornering.

Move the camber link up and in to add traction as well.

These are suggestions only. Remember, when it comes to racing rubber tires, it's all about the right compound and insert. I tend to keep the cross-mixing to an absolute minimum, and typically use Sorex since they have compounds that suit all temps.

Make sure your steering radius is the same right to left, and that you use zero expo and as much DR as you can to the point which the car has enough steerin and is easy to drive.

Good luck, hope this helps!
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Old 01-09-2002, 09:19 AM   #694
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Greg, I've been following your recent input with interest.

My son Josh, now 18 has raced a TC3 since the first batch came to Europe - I think it is now in it's 3rd season. He does more winning than most, so perhaps our set up may come in useful.

We run on a bumpy but grippy asphalt track, and the weather is usually pretty hot. This is how I have set the TC3 up.

FRONT: Shocks top inner hole. Oil 30. Springs MR4 Blue (softer than most TC3 springs). No droop limiters.
Top arm - top inner hole. Bottom wishbone factory set up.
4 degree caster blocks. No steering ackermann.

REAR: Shocks, springs and position same as front.
Top arm - top inner hole and outer hole at hub.
Bottom wishbone 2 x 2.

TYRES: We are presently running Yoke 139GF with Schumacher grey or blue inserts - same all round. Reason for the GF is because they last longer. They don't grip like the G, but I'm not a milionaire.

Ride Height - about 5.o front. Slightly more rear.

He has run it with roll bars but finds it bites more without so prefers them off.

Battery position rear but I have an empty cell in the front which I keep the ballast in to keep it at just over 1500 grams required by the regs. looks good too especially with the cell with a Sanyo 3000 sticker. It makes people talk....look that's why he wins. he's running 7 cells.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-09-2002, 09:27 AM   #695
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Hey John did you ever run on astro turf with the TC3 and if so what type of set-up did you use, I did this saturday but the back end wanted to come around
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Old 01-09-2002, 12:37 PM   #696
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JohnBull,

I looked at your setup and your suspension certainly is chipping in on the traction. I see a good balance on setup though with the trade-off of 4 degree caster hubs and the rear 2+2 block.

Things to consider: going to the rear 2+0 block to make the car rotate even quicker around corners, but only if traction will allows.
In addition, each shock mount hole in the top equates to -2.5lbs, so if you run a Assoc. 30lbs front spring at the inside hole, it's really at 25lbs. Should you car feel sluggish in transition sections, go to the 25lbs spring in the top hole(as an example) for quicker handling.

Another thing to know about the inside holes, I really only see them used to reduce traction rolls on foam-tired cars. Typically, cars setups on rubber seem best on the outside holes. I would suggest going to a Associated Green all the way around in the outside hole for the shocks, maybe even a Silver. Both are well suited for 30wt oil. If you need softer springs, I would consider a lower temp tire compound rather than trade off corner speed. This does reduce tire longevity, but should someone start winning rather than your son, you have some ideas to use and hopefully improve his results without breaking the bank.
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Old 01-09-2002, 12:41 PM   #697
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Default Re: Setup

Quote:
Originally posted by Greg Amendola
Corse-R,

Looking at your setup and hearing about the handling, I would suggest the following changes:
Greg, thankyou for the tip, if I really hate something is the first 20 packs to a new car. Switching from old car to new car is a pain, because all the little tweaks you're doing during all the life of a car are innumerable (on the last year I did to my previous car more than 500 packs (about 100 on official racing). I will start to write down every change to the car (honest).


Quote:
Move the camber link up and in to add traction as well.
.

If my memory doen't fails me, I've readed on the manual that shortening the camber link adds traction, reducing stability, that's why I asked for reducing the lenght of the upper arm (it seems that I was completely wrong).

Quote:
Remember, when it comes to racing rubber tires, it's all about the right compound and insert. I tend to keep the cross-mixing to an absolute minimum, and typically use Sorex since they have compounds that suit all temps.
I did this mixing of inserts because using a very soft insert as the stock blue foam that comes with ProLine tyres, destroys the tyre on almost 4 packs, and this for practice is a little tough, for racing, can be ok. This is why is swapped the front tyres for a little harder and consistent insert who doesn't pinches the tyre on hard cornering.

We haven't available in Spain Team Sorex tyres, we have ProLine, Jaco, TakeOff, Yokomo, Losi and some HPI tyres and inserts. Someone has said me that the Tamiya Racing Slicks 'type B' are Sorex 32 tyres, anyone knows something about this?
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Old 01-09-2002, 02:06 PM   #698
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Thanks for the update. I do know for a fact that the longer the camber link, the more traction it gemerates. The shorter the link, the more active camber you will have, thus reducing the "amount" of traction by tilting the tire more towards the inside edge thus reducing the amount of tire patch in contact with the surface. I've not seen a setup in 2+ years on the car that uses the outside holes, but anything is worth trying once.

I don't have as much outdoor experience as I do inside, but feel free to run something past me if you like. If I can't answer it, I can get any number of AE factory guys to answer it and get it to you.
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Old 01-09-2002, 02:18 PM   #699
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i dont really know much about the car shells arodynamics but is the Merc GtR shell any good for racing???

also another novice question what would be the best gearing to start off at with a P2K2??? just as a bench mark roughly! for a fast track

Thanks Again!!!!
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Old 01-09-2002, 03:40 PM   #700
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Anyone here race stock rtr tc3 but say with a differnt motor but everything else the same how do they hold up in a race?
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Old 01-09-2002, 05:04 PM   #701
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My friend ran one at a race here. The RTR did really good and kept with the other tc3s. All he did to it was change the motor to a P2K...and he might have changed the speed control a few races later. Definitly a race worth car.
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Old 01-09-2002, 11:21 PM   #702
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I built TC3 racer and tested it today.
It's my first touring car.
I love everything inlcuding shaft, shassy, diffs, ackerman,...

Problem is I set up per manual and car goes slightly sideways.
Very strange. looks like front and rear wheels are pointing different direction.
I can't make it go straight without overcompensating front wheel the opposite way.

I tested it on carpet in my room.
Is it because of torq steer? or slow speed?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-10-2002, 12:09 AM   #703
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It could be the toe-in on the front wheels. Adjust the turnbuckles so that the fronts wheels point out at about 1 degree when the steering is centered. The rear wheels should point inwards at all times...I don't recal the degrees they point on stock settings at teh moment.

Your diffs may have been built improporly. Check them again and make sure that they operate smoothly.

Steering could alway be off-centered too...

I doubt that it is torq steer...my 5 TC3's never did that.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-10-2002, 06:08 AM   #704
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

BUDA. I'm afraid I can't help with astro turf settings as we have never run the TC3 on anything but asphalt.

In fact our only carpet experience was at the Worlds in 98 when son Josh raced a Schumacher. On that track we just had to make everything rock solid as the cars were griprolling all over the place.

GREG. Thanks for suggestions. As you say, it's all a bit of a compromise. We need the soft springing because of the bumpy surface. We've tried 1 degree rear toe in but it makes it a bit too tail happy, and yes your suggestion about running softer rubber is already in operation. We always have a set of 138G ready mounted with us. Just hope we never need to use them.

I myself run an MR4 Special. It's all politics. I sell them both so it's best for Josh to run one and myself the other. They are both excellent cars.

We race this Sunday, but it's a very technical track so my 55 year old reflexes won't be too happy. I'll just have to try and make less mistakes.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-10-2002, 08:06 AM   #705
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Anytime you run an R/C car on carpet that has any shag to it, the car wheel track sideways. Not sure why this is, but it used to drive me nuts trying to figure out why my RC12L wouldnt go straight. I would take it to the track and it would be fine, but up and down my hallway, crab steerin'.
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