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Old 11-25-2003, 08:24 PM   #6991
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The IRS units are nice. You will need to buy the Bearings for them and not use the Bushings.

I had to use them last year at the Snowbirds.

Mike Webb
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Old 11-25-2003, 09:32 PM   #6992
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Are you melting these diff outdrives in mod or stock racing?
The IRS out drives should do just fine, but personally in stock racing I preffer to use the plastic outdrives...
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Old 11-25-2003, 10:24 PM   #6993
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Default the C-Hubs

Hey guys, alright about the C-hub problems that everyone is having. I have the CAD drawings finished, and I am not in the process of getting the plastic prototype pieces cut-out. If everything goes right, they will be an exact replica of the AE ones, but without the things that limit the travel. I am going to polish them so they look nice. I should, SHOULD, be able to sell them for about 18 bucks for a set. I will have to see on pricing, and If you want them polished or not, cause that takes forever.

With the aluminum you will be able to crank down on them, and not strip down, plus since this is a school fundraiser thing, I wont be selling them for out-rageous amounts, like some companies.
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Old 11-25-2003, 11:13 PM   #6994
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posted by jdwca
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BTW, my TC3 runs great except for one additional thing. I race in a very competetive class so I run some very hot motors. The problem is that even with my diff fairly tight the plastic outdrives can at times melt from the temp of the diff rings. I've ordered IRS aluminum outdrives and I think they'll work fine. Anyone have any experience with these or other solutions they've used?
I do like the aluminum outdrives over the plastic ones, had the same trouble with the diff rings in the plastic drives melting the retention notches so the rings would slip around. I use the Niftech units but either ones will require the use of either the IRS pin drives or the Niftech pillow drives. If you do not use either of those the round steel pin in your cvd will gauge the aluminum in the outdrive fairly quickly creating a lot of slop.
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Old 11-26-2003, 05:24 AM   #6995
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Thanks to all who responded. I'll look into the bearings as well.

Anyone have the info on the helicoil thingy yet?
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Old 11-26-2003, 05:44 AM   #6996
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Default Manhattan Supply Link

Here is the insert:

http://www.mscdirect.com/IWCatSectio...82&View.x.y=11


And here is the tool to put them in:

http://www.mscdirect.com/IWCatProduc...5792&Keyword=Y
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Old 11-26-2003, 07:01 AM   #6997
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I recently gave up on the plastic pieces. The reason being is that whenever I would go to take the bearing off the hubs it got difficult to remove because the plastic on the end had started to deform from the stress. The bad thing is that I only ran stock with this setup.
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Old 11-26-2003, 09:02 AM   #6998
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Happy Thanksgiving my TC3 family
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Old 11-26-2003, 11:04 AM   #6999
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The tap and drill bit that come with a helicoil kit aren't standard. They're slightly larger to accomodate the coil. You really need to order the kit to get the right tap and bit.

As far as the diff goes...it sounds to me that you're just not tightening the diff enough and getting to much slip. I'd revisit the diff adjustment section of your manual.
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Old 11-26-2003, 01:41 PM   #7000
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Default Sway-bar brace

I've seen several cars with a carbon fibre brace over the swaybar mount. Do you know who makes these braces?

Thanks,

Arvid
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Old 11-26-2003, 11:51 PM   #7001
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Hi I am new to the forum, I hope someone can help me out.
I have been racing TC3's ever since they come out in the modified class. I am just in the process of putting a new chassis on one of my cars and have noticed that there is a spot that binds badly when you rotate the diffs in the front and rear housing. It is only when bothe diffsa nd the drive shaft are installed. I have always noticed a small amount of binding in the gearboxes but never this bad. Has anyone got any ideas or maybe solved this problem. I am running Factory team cars with the plastic diffs and the aluminium drive shaft. Also I have noticed that it is even worse with the one way in.



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Old 11-27-2003, 12:35 AM   #7002
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Default Re: Sway-bar brace

Quote:
Originally posted by Airwide
I've seen several cars with a carbon fibre brace over the swaybar mount. Do you know who makes these braces?

Thanks,

Arvid
I saw one on Victor Wilck's (sp?) car at the Procar Open last weekend. He said he got it from Joel Myrberg who bought it in Japan.

He didn't know who made it though...

I have been looking for one as well.

Please post it here if you find it.

Regards
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Old 11-27-2003, 12:51 AM   #7003
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatbear
Hi I am new to the forum, I hope someone can help me out.
I have been racing TC3's ever since they come out in the modified class. I am just in the process of putting a new chassis on one of my cars and have noticed that there is a spot that binds badly when you rotate the diffs in the front and rear housing. It is only when bothe diffsa nd the drive shaft are installed. I have always noticed a small amount of binding in the gearboxes but never this bad. Has anyone got any ideas or maybe solved this problem. I am running Factory team cars with the plastic diffs and the aluminium drive shaft. Also I have noticed that it is even worse with the one way in.



Fatbear
it could be ur bevel/diff gears are stripped.otherwise check the bearings.
BTW , welcome.
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Old 11-27-2003, 01:04 AM   #7004
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hey, lets all post our pictures of our TC3's or any other cars for the holiday season

I'll try to get some taken
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Old 11-27-2003, 04:19 PM   #7005
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No it is not stripped gears or bad bearings. I have run these cars at a very high level for along time now and I know the TC3 inside out but I haven't been able to sought out this problem.

Any other ideas.

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