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Old 11-24-2003, 07:18 PM   #6976
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I will ask Kevin this weekend, and I think that Nick might know...

I guess it is like a spring, with a little tip for a tool to hook onto. Once the spring is screwed into the object, then you break off the tip, and it is stuck there permenantly...
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Old 11-24-2003, 07:35 PM   #6977
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A helicoil kit comes with a drill bit (to slightly enlarge the screw hole that got stripped), a special tap (to rethread the hole), a number of coils and a special tool for inserting the coils. A coil gets threaded into the enlarged hole using the special tool. A hook at the end of the spring holds it in place. The winds in the coil replace the stripped threads. I got mine at a hardware store that specializes in screws and bolts (King Bolt).
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:32 PM   #6978
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Hey! thanks for all the responses.

looks like I have a few things to try this weekend I will see what happens and try and get back here and post what I have come up with

oh and by the way I am an experienced racer for over 10 yrs this particular problem has just plagued me

Thanks
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:44 PM   #6979
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my teammate and i have used the helicoils...


they work great for the diff housing to mount the shocktowers.

for the button-head screws w/ the shoulder that go on the bottom of the C Hub and the ballhead on top they are excellent. i wouldn't say they "never" will come out but it is still 100% better then without them. we used AE thread lock and they'll stick pretty well. over time with the stress of high traction carpet racing they will work loose again so recheck them periodically (the bottom screw not the top).

i think the TC3 is an excellent car and that one screw is the only real flaw in the design...before the helicoils that thing was popping out all the time.
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:13 PM   #6980
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you can get helicoils from manhattan supply co.
i will get the phone number up here tomorrow for you.very good prices.they can tell you drill sizes if you are not familiar with them.i can also let you know .what size do you need?also,if you order a helicoil tap,it is listed as a STI(ex.for a 6-32 helicoil tap it is refered to as a 6-32 STI)make sure the tap goes in real straight otherwise it will pull out.helicoils really are not recomended for plastic but they do work.
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:55 PM   #6981
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the 1732 is a factory team gear design for a Heavy Duty One Way
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Old 11-24-2003, 11:59 PM   #6982
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Has anyone here raced on a slippery track? (slippery = very dusty)
because I find it hard to steer my TC3. My car was handling ok for the first three laps but after that I found it hard to control the car. I use 36 Sorex, track temperature is 40 degrees Celcius. Has anyone faced this kind of problem before? . Please let me know any tips to solve the problem. Thanks guys
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Old 11-25-2003, 02:46 AM   #6983
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I'm not trying to be sarcastic,but the solution to a dusty track is simple:
bring a broom and do some sweeping b4 racing.u can also water down the dust 1 day or 2 beforehand.
we have a dusty track all the time.
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Old 11-25-2003, 02:47 AM   #6984
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regarding the helicoils,
can i just go to a regular nut and bolt supplier and ask for it?

any specifications,lengths,etc that i have to mention?
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Old 11-25-2003, 06:39 AM   #6985
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There has got to be a better way than to get a 40.00 dollar helicoil kit. Friday I lost a screw from under the knuckle but I think that was due to my being too lazy to take the wheels off to check the screws between runs. Hopefuly someone can come up with a more cost sensible fix for this. There is a company that makes a thread locker especially for plastic Threebond has anyone used this product or know of another ?Three Bond
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Last edited by Speedie; 11-25-2003 at 06:56 AM.
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Old 11-25-2003, 04:47 PM   #6986
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I just ordered my TC3. I get in a few days. Would it be stupid to put an 8T in it? I don't really race at tracks.
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Old 11-25-2003, 05:20 PM   #6987
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Well...if you're not going to race it...you can put in whatever you want. I wouldn't run it with small kids around though. If you don't have a lot of experience driving an RC car you may want to start with a stock motor otherwise you'll be spending a lot of money on replacement parts.
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Old 11-25-2003, 07:37 PM   #6988
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well putting an 8T does mean lot'sa speed,
but it also means less run times...when u want to play with ur car more,less speed means more play.
then u have to watch put for gearing,heat,ESC,etc.

wow,a helicoil kit is 40 bucks each?dang!
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Old 11-25-2003, 08:41 PM   #6989
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well it comes with drill bit and tap and thats what the expense is the installer is a plastic deal and the coils are cheap. I guess the best way to go is to get a cpl of guys together and share. Not that 40.00 is alot but could be spent elseware.
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Old 11-25-2003, 09:10 PM   #6990
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Default Helicoil

I'm having the same problem with my TC3 C-hubs, and I'd like to pick up the helicoil tap, etc. Could someone who has purchased these items give the size of the tap (part # if possible) so we'd be able to just order it and not have to do the leg work ;-)?

Thanks.

BTW, my TC3 runs great except for one additional thing. I race in a very competetive class so I run some very hot motors. The problem is that even with my diff fairly tight the plastic outdrives can at times melt from the temp of the diff rings. I've ordered IRS aluminum outdrives and I think they'll work fine. Anyone have any experience with these or other solutions they've used?
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