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Old 11-22-2003, 07:53 PM   #6946
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpeediePHATT
There are alot of holes cut in the bottom of my chassis thats why I was so worried about chassis tweaking. (BTW Tweakers Suck) I also milled out the entire center brace and replaced it with an aluminum one mounted higher in the chassis. I still want to add some standoffs down the center to support the brace but I want to make them out of plastic. It will look alot better when its polished and anodized.
That chassis looks somewhat like a Losi should, how much is cut out from it!
LOL
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Old 11-22-2003, 08:02 PM   #6947
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Oh BTW phatt,
In my honest opinion, I would worry about cracking that portion of the chassis(where the holes are drilled specificly for cooling the cam). I have cracked cams in my 4WD(project car... ), and many of my TC3's from hard landings off dots/boards/embanqument changes. I would worry about cracking that chassis with the holes that you drilled there, because it looks like you took your time cutting it all out, I personally would not want that to crack there. As for the warped/tweaked part of the chassis, you already know that is from heat(because the holes are there to cool the cam), so either you might want to gear the motor down a tooth or two. Also, which class of motor are you using this chassis for?(stock, mod, 19t, spec)
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Old 11-22-2003, 09:22 PM   #6948
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Im running stock motors I keep a good eye on my motor temps and havent gotten one over 170. That was a monster when I run a MVP or a green motor the heat is lower not over 160. When I made my first runs it never got over 150 and that was when I was noticing the heat affecting the surface. The car has taken a few good hits already and hasnt failed.
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Old 11-22-2003, 09:45 PM   #6949
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Although I never check my motor temps, my chassis has never been affected by heat. Suposedly I am somewhat over geared for SoCal at a 6.9, but my chassis is not affected by the heat...
But no two chassis' are the same, along with no two motors are the same, along with no two drivers are the same...
I will admit though, that is one clever idea for cooling!!!
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Old 11-22-2003, 10:31 PM   #6950
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Default Barry Baker TC3

Hi guys,
Does anyone has Barry Baker TC3's photo?

thanks
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Old 11-22-2003, 10:49 PM   #6951
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Yep
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Old 11-23-2003, 04:25 AM   #6952
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my motors run up to 170-190F but i dont have melting or tweaking on my chassis.
i release the clamps about 1/2 turns after i bring the car out.
i also blow it with a DC fan,it helps a lot.
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Old 11-23-2003, 09:25 AM   #6953
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I haven't had any problems with the chassis that was milled and cut in several places for my TC3. My stock and mod motors come off the track at about 190-210F. Still no problem and I have been racing this chassis since Snowbirds last year.
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Old 11-23-2003, 03:49 PM   #6954
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MELVIN! Whatcha up to man? Have you gotten plans for the Birds yet? I need to get time to call you so we can get plans going... are you as excited as me?!
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Old 11-23-2003, 06:38 PM   #6955
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Default rear in wants to come around on carpet

hi guys i run on a track in sc carpet ozite on my tc3 i run white up front wth 80wt/yellow on rear with 70 wt r2-0 0caster block and 2degree kickup my rear in wants to come around on entering a curve shock out on rear/ out on front links are in upper hole on both droop 5 front 4 on rear what i need to do to get it planted im geeting redy for clevland it tends to loose in middle to end of race
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Old 11-23-2003, 06:58 PM   #6956
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Although I do not race on carpet, maybe try using the R+3+2 block, the extra toe should provide some more rear traction on your car. Possibally move the shock mount position on the tower closer to chassis' center to give the feeling of a softer spring. If the car is drastically looping out in corners, you might want to try the R+3+0 block, with zero degrees of anti squat and three degrees of toe. Droop, you could also try using 5 in the rear to keep the chassis lower to start with, and that should give you more rear traction.
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Old 11-23-2003, 07:07 PM   #6957
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tc3racersc,

Try running 4 degree caster blocks, 0 kickup, same toe as you have. What tires are you running? You should be running Plaid front, Purple rear foams. For droop, I don't like to use the AE gauge. Set your droop so you have about 2 mm uptravel more than your ride height when you hold down the tires and lift up on the tower for front, and about 1 mm in the rear. That is really the best way to set droop. Try all that, it should work. If not, if you need help, ask someone you know or you can find me at the champs, i'll be there.
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Old 11-23-2003, 07:15 PM   #6958
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
Proficar403: You have a PM! Im plannin a trip your way for practice... talk to ya soon!
- Dave
Dave, did you check your PM? I will probably not be there next weekend; i'm going back home for thanksgiving, and I'm not sure what day i'll be back.
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Old 11-23-2003, 07:20 PM   #6959
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Hmm.. I may try that for Droop Brian. Right now I have my car setup so that I have no uptravel in the front and about 3/32 of a inch of uptravel in the rear. My car is planted but sometimes when I go into a corner way to fast my Front tire lifts on the inside of the corner...but if I went into the corner the correct way my car is very fast.
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Old 11-23-2003, 08:17 PM   #6960
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Problem with that Mike, is, that when you don't get into a corner just right your car loses tons of time. Better to have it loose fractions of tenths of a second for more traction than to loose tenths from a loose car. I have also run 1.5 mm travel in front, 1 mm rear, still feels good. You always want to have some droop. Yeah, the reason your tire is lifting is because lack of droop. Rule of thumb for a TC3 or TC3-based car (such as the Warpspeed Demon I drive) is to have a little "tick" of uptravel in the car, and adjust how you like it from there. I know my car feels predictable and easy to drive, and also fast.
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