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Old 11-13-2003, 01:17 PM   #6841
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Speedxl:

Yes, you can, but they are assymetrical - one edge has more material along it than the other, thus the steering to the left is impaired. And impaired is the right word to say, as 'assymetrical static steering' is just a theoretical opinion as far as I'm concerned - I really doubt this was 'designed-in' to the parts as the 'theory' suggests. I just don't buy it!

I might be hugely out-numbered, but at least I'm not alone and I'm certainly not going to be a sucker and just follow the crowd on this!!

Also, why are people using the losi arms and carriers? Hmmmmm!! I wonder!! (BTW, I only just found out about this!!)

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Old 11-13-2003, 01:55 PM   #6842
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horatio i didnt say it was design into it for handling or turning reasons i said it was a part of the manfacturing cost to do it this way because they didnt want to make an extra mold for two c hubs. mind you this is my theoritical guess on this because i do know that these molds are expensive to make and they do wear out with time.
thats what i was trying to let you know ealier .
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Old 11-13-2003, 04:24 PM   #6843
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I understand what you are saying.

It's just that had they designed the 0 degree carrier to be symmetrical, it COULD STILL be used both sides with just one moulding tool, but without the existing 'less steering to the left' problem.

I also agree that AE decided it would make more economic sense to just live with the inadequacies with the shared left/right 0 degree c carrier, rather than go back to the CAD system and make another moulding tool.

Hope that makes sense!
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Old 11-14-2003, 07:09 AM   #6844
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Hey thanks for the reply guys, I really appreciate it

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dude u look very pro, any tips for me, so that I can win with my TC3, how is the race over there (whereever u are)?
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:15 AM   #6845
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Well, it makes complete sense to me, but then you and I've been saying the same thing on this subject for aeons!
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Old 11-14-2003, 12:26 PM   #6846
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Default toe in

is there an easy way to approximate front toe in without a gauge? i mostly try to eyeball it and hope it's pretty equal. i have the rack centered and the wheels look pretty equal, about 2 degrees. i'm thinking of investing in a gauge, but i'm still debating rthe purchase and need my car race ready by Sunday's race.
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Old 11-14-2003, 12:39 PM   #6847
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Default toe-in

Prabably the only way I can think of is to measure tire to tire in front quadrant of tire...then the same on the "back" quadrant of tire. If they are the same, you have 0 toe. Prabably not very easy to do. RPM makes a toe gage that helps do this, but I don't think doing it that way is very accurate. (if you can, measure from the rim and not the rubber tire.
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Old 11-14-2003, 01:11 PM   #6848
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Take a sharpie

place the car on a stand so all four tires are off the ground and can freewheel

turn on the controller and car

run the wheels at a slow speed - apply the sharpie to each tire so that it makes a solid single line down the center of each.

Shut the car down

Take a ruler and measure the distance between the lines at the front of the tire and at the rear of the tire

Each 1/16th of an inch is about 1 degree.
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Old 11-14-2003, 02:44 PM   #6849
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
Well, it makes complete sense to me, but then you and I've been saying the same thing on this subject for aeons!
Sometimes you just can't win, can you...
LOL
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Old 11-14-2003, 04:15 PM   #6850
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Default Re: toe in

Quote:
Originally posted by tc3rookie
is there an easy way to approximate front toe in without a gauge? i mostly try to eyeball it and hope it's pretty equal. i have the rack centered and the wheels look pretty equal, about 2 degrees. i'm thinking of investing in a gauge, but i'm still debating rthe purchase and need my car race ready by Sunday's race.
A hudy or similar system is just something you have to buy eventually, I believe. I actually bought an rpm gauge way back, but it is actually pretty stupid and as accurate as my eyeball. It ends up being great having a hudy system, especially when setting all the trims and steering throw equal.

As I always say, go ahead and buy the best stuff, because you will end up with it sometime later anyway, only costing yourself money and agony. Ex: I bought 4 chargers before I finally bought a turbo 35.

The easiest way to measure toe w/o a gauge is to use calipers or a ruler as Boomer stated.
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Old 11-14-2003, 04:17 PM   #6851
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Quote:
Originally posted by Horatio
Proficar:

Do the losi arms allow for greater lock without having to file the carrier? I'd be interested to know.
I could set my throw with the losi blocks to the point where the cvds will bind,still not hitting a carrier, but I have it set nowhere near that close.
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Old 11-14-2003, 06:43 PM   #6852
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Default hudy

i have been looking into the hudy thing, and i'm probably going to have to wait till christmas so i'll make due with a calipers/ruler until then. i just hope i'm not way off.
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Old 11-14-2003, 07:52 PM   #6853
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or, if your do not have a hudy system, what you can do is put the car up vertically resting on its rear bumper, and use a camber guage., you use a small level to make sure the car is straight up and down...
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Old 11-14-2003, 07:52 PM   #6854
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Default Measuring toe in/out

I have a eagle racing gauge to measure the front toe in/out , but i am just wondering, do u guys measure the front toe in/out while the radio is on or the radio has to be off when measuring the toe?

because one of my friends told me that I should turn the radio on when measuring my toe, but everytime I move the steering the degree changes (cause me a headache), any tips for me?

Thanks guys
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Old 11-14-2003, 10:20 PM   #6855
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this is one of my new bodies painted by skipgear, paint scheme designed by me a few years ago, but he took it to a new level with all my bodies he paints. he does an excellent job.

Alfa Romeo Body
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