Bubblestc3

tc3rookie,
The Yokomo shaft is a direct replacement. I myself was amazed!!!! As for part number, I do not know it at the time, but I will try to find it for you.

Intermision

What would the Yokomo shaft do different?

Bubblestc3

The slop in your servo is somewhat similar to your gear mesh with the motor. Too tight, and the servo will bind, too loose, and the servo will strip gears. As metal gears in a servo wear, there becomes more and more slop.

Another thing to consider is what servo horn you are using, which you are using an aluminium horn, and check the slop in that. The servo mounts are another thing to consider with slop that apperently comes from the servo, and how tight they are on the servo.

Bubblestc3

The bones of the shaft are aluminum(that connect into the drive cups), and the accual shaft is carbon.

mistercrash

iTrader: (5)

2 mm

tc3 racer sc

hey thxs for setup mike d i race with u at durham i cya in clevland

sars125

Tanhx it's this a site wich can help me a lot

Greetz lars from holland

tc3rookie

the servo arm is not very old and i had this same problem with another arm. i'll check the slop in the gears. if there is, would a new gear set fix it?

Bubblestc3

It depends on the ammount of slop that it has right now. If there is a little, then new gears will not help it(it should be the same), but if there is a bunch of slop, then new gears will fix most of the slop.

Flash Gordan

I know I should search this out on my own but does anybody have a list of modifications that have been discussed in all the pages of this thread?

mb racer

iTrader: (1)

just remember to replace the ball caps and ball studs too ,, this should help alot .. even with a worn servo,, you may still have alittle slop but you cant just change one thing ,, sometimes its ok. but its better to change it all then youll have a better out come.. my 2cents...goood luck ..

tc3rookie

it turns out the ridges in the arm and on the servo didn't match very well, so i replaced the alluminum one with a plastic and it works really well now, almost no slop. the rack isn't as free as i'd like but i fixed it a little and now it's a lot more free than be4.

Bubblestc3

The major things that have been discused in the past have been:
Rear shock tower up front, chassis refinements, Nitro steering system, drivetrain, spool's, and one-ways.

But then again, I have only been on rctech for two or three months...

berger

iTrader: (1)

I have my own mod, for my rpm bumper, the middle two holes which the diff sits through i cut slits in so that i can just undo the two screws holding the front arm mount on and pull the bumper off, saving undoing the diff, this way if you break a front wishbone its really easy to change it fast. Also i just sand my hinge pins down a little bit until they are steel coloured and not black, allows the wishbones to drop freely.

berger

iTrader: (1)

If i can be bothered ill take a picture of my bumper tomorrow.