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Old 10-20-2003, 05:52 AM   #6541
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They will probably just slowly update it over time.
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Old 10-20-2003, 07:07 AM   #6542
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Default TC3 Servo Savers

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone has needed a servo saver for this car? I stripped a standard servo gearset this weekend and was thinking a servo saver might help.

Any thoughts?

Which Metal gear servo would you reccomend?
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Old 10-20-2003, 07:36 AM   #6543
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Default Re: TC3 Servo Savers

Quote:
Originally posted by rinkrat99
Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone has needed a servo saver for this car? I stripped a standard servo gearset this weekend and was thinking a servo saver might help.

Any thoughts?

Which Metal gear servo would you reccomend?
I lock down the rack and use a kimbrough mid-size servo saver. You need to dremel a small amount of chassis bracing near the servo saver. It's much more reliable and servo-friendly.
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Old 10-20-2003, 08:40 AM   #6544
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Default Re: TC3 Servo Savers

Quote:
Originally posted by rinkrat99
Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone has needed a servo saver for this car? I stripped a standard servo gearset this weekend and was thinking a servo saver might help.

Any thoughts?

Which Metal gear servo would you reccomend?
Did you have the steering rack's cam tightened all the way down? If so - that's the problem. That's your servo saver. it's the same system used in the NTC3, too, and a lot of people were stripping their steering servos because they were tightening down the servo saver screw.

This does NOT merely tighten the spring - it LIMITS the amount of travel that the servo saver has. If you tighten it all the way down, you have no travel at all and thus no servo "saviness".

Make sure your servo saver will "flex".
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Old 10-20-2003, 09:06 AM   #6545
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The manual states to tighten down the spring until the screw is flush with the top of the nut.

Thats the way I built the rack. Should I back-it off?
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Old 10-20-2003, 09:48 AM   #6546
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That should be right - it should "cam" a bit.

Of course, if you hit hard enough to force it all the way AND then some. . .well, that is a weakness with the design. . .
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Old 10-20-2003, 09:50 AM   #6547
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Ran my tc3 yesturday at a fairly big meeting. Placed 3rd fastest after round one running a p2k2, my motor guy forgot all our monster stocks doh! The time i posted i only went a second fast than all day. Finished up on pole in the B after someone posted a super fast time in the last round to jump from 15th to 5th, so i was a little hacked off. Got a good few laps in the B being pushed from behind, then as he couldnt pass, took me out and my car flew over a few lanes and landed on the roof. Had someone marshelling me who sort of made a half arsed effort at tipping it over, he was standing dead infront of it so no-one could see my car from the drivers stand. Got hit a few times when i was upside down and pushed down the straight, transponder came out. Was really hacked off. Drove very fast from then on, 2 seconds faster than anyone else on the track. Had to be manually timed though and ended up 6th. Checked the times out later on the wall and i had spent around 40 seconds upside down, costing me two laps
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Old 10-20-2003, 10:03 AM   #6548
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i've had problems with half-assed turnmarshelling too... cost me the race... oh well, at least when i'm marshalling no-one gets left there for 40 seconds!
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Old 10-20-2003, 10:21 AM   #6549
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Berger:

Don't you just hate it when that happens? I remember 1 race where I was leading by half a lap in an A main against some Schumacher 'team' drivers. A marshal stepped on to the track to marshal another car and then stepped back onto my car with his full weight as I tried to pass. The result was a broken rear shock tower and a DNF. It was just one of those things.

Regarding the 'cam' servo saver on the TC3 - I set mine up so that the screw is tight enough to give a positive steering action, but so that saver gives a little when 'firm' thumb pressure is applied to the wheels. I support the the servo horn with my thumb whilst I carry out this operation. This way you can actually feel the sort of forces being transmitted back through to the servo.

TC3 spinning drivetrain: I'm certain the video is for real, but the thing is: the heavier the drivetrain, the longer it will spin for. Also, if I apply a starter motor to my TC3's wheels and nail it to my bench, I can get mine to spin for 45 seconds

At the end of the day, if you strip bearings, the thinner the oil the higher the maintenence. Team drivers get new bearings every race meeting - most racers, however, don't. I suppose it depends how high you want to raise the bar!!!
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Old 10-20-2003, 10:46 AM   #6550
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Yeah i was pissed as i had really been on the pace all day and missed out on the A by 0.6 of a second. Next round ill have to qualify with the B final drivers as well so the driving wont be quite so clean. I just need that little bit more power from my motor!
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Old 10-20-2003, 12:21 PM   #6551
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Default bearings

i used motor spray to flush out my bearings and added 'free revs' team orion bearing/bushing lube, but there feels to be more friction now, almost like a little gritty, but not really, but i'm not sure. is the oil i'm using too thin, or what?
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Old 10-20-2003, 12:42 PM   #6552
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you may well have flushed dirt into your bearings. . .
or you may have grit in there or a flat-spotted bearing. . .

Flush well (like really well) and see if you can get it to spin freely without gritty feelings. If you can't, you've got a bad bearing.
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Old 10-20-2003, 01:32 PM   #6553
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Default Re: bearings

Quote:
Originally posted by tc3rookie
i used motor spray to flush out my bearings and added 'free revs' team orion bearing/bushing lube, but there feels to be more friction now, almost like a little gritty, but not really, but i'm not sure. is the oil i'm using too thin, or what?
This is the trouble with stripping bearings to get all the grease out. Assuming the bearing is new, if it feels gritty it's probably because you've put dirt into the bearing, just as boomer said. Unless you're looking to shave tenths of seconds off your times, I see no point in removing the bog standard grease you get with the bearings when they are new. Yes, I know it drags, but the performance remains consistent over time which is very important when concentrating on improving actual driving/racing skill.

If you're one for running bearings with their inner shields removed and don't mind cleaning them after every meeting, you could try ZX1 Micro Lube (UK name - it may be called somthing else in the US), which is pretty good in bearings. Schumacher sell it as a spare part. I use Carb cleaner to blast my bearings, but keep rubber or teflon shields well away from the stuff. Compressed air is handy too to finish them off. Then lube VERY lightly. The key to good bearings is taking a clinical like approach once those seals are removed! Even so, they won't last as long without grease so choose wisely.
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Old 10-20-2003, 01:49 PM   #6554
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with a new set of bearings and extensive machine work to the diff cases and even the cap for the bearing infront of the spur which everyone forgets with purple oil i can get about a 10 to 14 sec spin.
and with ceramic
guys if you take you time and check all the tolerences you can get 10 sec + spin times.
i only go thru the trouble for a national or big state race its useless for club bashing
with usal set up time i'll get anywhere from 6 to 8 seconds on free spin.
alot of people really dont do a serious check and over look stuff. guys as long as you get 6 sec's you doing fine.
i have never seen the video but i did see josh cyruls car spin for like close to 2 mkins at the snow birds and i just about shit in my pants so what ever you guys seen in the video i am sure its real.
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Old 10-20-2003, 01:52 PM   #6555
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Default Setups

I have uploaded some setups for the tc3 by Jonas Kaerup and Craig Drescher on my site.

Thought someone might want to take a look.

www.swebs.dk

Regards
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