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Old 10-14-2003, 07:21 AM   #6466
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Guys i need a little bit of help here.

I have broken 3 thats right 3 RW one ways for the tc 3 i cant believe it and all have been broken on the 1st run there is seriously something wrong with these.

Anybody know which is a better/Stronger one to try. I dont know between the yokomo and genuine associated one.

Any ideas ?
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Old 10-14-2003, 09:32 AM   #6467
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Default flat dogbone pins?>

Anyone run the niftech flat dogbone axles? Good? Bad? Indifferent? Seems like a good idea, but then there are more parts to break or have problems with.

Scott
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Old 10-14-2003, 12:56 PM   #6468
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Default Diff coming loose all the time

No matter what adjustment I use (looser or tighter), they just keep coming loose! I ebuilt them they they still come loose after one pack.

I am running a D5 8T single.

Any tips?
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Old 10-14-2003, 02:15 PM   #6469
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Yep - the little ny-lock nut needs to be replaced.
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Old 10-14-2003, 04:05 PM   #6470
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Default Re: Diff coming loose all the time

Quote:
Originally posted by blackd0g
No matter what adjustment I use (looser or tighter), they just keep coming loose! I ebuilt them they they still come loose after one pack.

I am running a D5 8T single.

Any tips?
with mod, you should always run a tight diff. not too often looser(accually, i don't think that you ever have a loose diff in the car when you are running mod), but also as boomer said, try a new nylon nut in the diff(diff nut). Another thing, if the car is brand new then you need to break in the diffs(so each part gets situated and smothes out), for this you should run the diffs almost locked, after one run or so you should check their tightness and if they slip then tighten them once again but feel for "notcheyness"(grinding). If the diff is grindy then you should take it apart and rebuild it again(try more diff lube).

More often than not, many people that have this problem(when the diff nut is ok) they forget things such as all of the balls in the diff, as well as all of the thrust balls, and the diff will not turn, but it still slips. So just go through the car and make sure that all the parts are in there and you should be set!

Chris
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Old 10-14-2003, 04:51 PM   #6471
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pink TC3
Guys i need a little bit of help here.

I have broken 3 thats right 3 RW one ways for the tc 3 i cant believe it and all have been broken on the 1st run there is seriously something wrong with these.

Anybody know which is a better/Stronger one to try. I dont know between the yokomo and genuine associated one.

Any ideas ?
Use the Heavy Duty (HD) One-Way from AE.
When the NTC3 came out the beefed up their previous one-way with this one, you will be very impressed.
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Old 10-14-2003, 04:56 PM   #6472
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Alright all you TC3ers out there, for a school preject/club fun raiser (yes, I am a junior), I will be designing and machining TC3 parts, and then selling them as fund raisers for our Tech. Club at school. and yes we do have a CNC Lath/Mill with CAD.
So, I would like to get suggestions on what parts you guys would like to see made in aluminum. I will take my dad's polishing bits and make the parts all nice and shiny so dont worry about that. So any suggestions are welcome.
What I have come up with:
Wider Battery brace (better heat conductor),
the cups that the center shaft mounts into,
the four chassis stiffeners, but only with one arm(like cutting the graphite ones in half, to get a visual),
anything else is welcome,
thanks,
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Old 10-14-2003, 05:28 PM   #6473
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Quote:
Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
Use the Heavy Duty (HD) One-Way from AE.
When the NTC3 came out the beefed up their previous one-way with this one, you will be very impressed.
just as a technicality, the hd one-way is accually from yokomo, but it still is an ae part number
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Old 10-14-2003, 05:31 PM   #6474
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yes thanks, for that, you do get it from AE though.
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Old 10-14-2003, 05:36 PM   #6475
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Quote:
Originally posted by =MisFitz= NuKe
Alright all you TC3ers out there, for a school preject/club fun raiser (yes, I am a junior), I will be designing and machining TC3 parts, and then selling them as fund raisers for our Tech. Club at school. and yes we do have a CNC Lath/Mill with CAD.
So, I would like to get suggestions on what parts you guys would like to see made in aluminum. I will take my dad's polishing bits and make the parts all nice and shiny so dont worry about that. So any suggestions are welcome.
What I have come up with:
Wider Battery brace (better heat conductor),
the cups that the center shaft mounts into,
the four chassis stiffeners, but only with one arm(like cutting the graphite ones in half, to get a visual),
anything else is welcome,
thanks,
how bout a spur gear mount...?(with another piece that will make the mount stronger)
drive shaft...?
shock tower mounts...?(so you can mount a flat piece of carbon to, to make your own shock tower)
wheel hexes...?

i am at a brain block, so in a little bit, i will hopefully have more...

hey, i'm a junior too. i wish my school had the machinery to do that (we proabally do, i just have never seen it)

Last edited by Bubblestc3; 10-14-2003 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 10-14-2003, 05:43 PM   #6476
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Yeah, forgot the spur gear mount, but what extra piece that will make it stronger?
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Old 10-14-2003, 05:48 PM   #6477
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lets see...
how do i explain in words...
ok, two pieces of aluminum holding the spur in a sandwich, and the top piece would just be to keep the spur true, and spinning straight
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Old 10-14-2003, 05:55 PM   #6478
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ok sweet, that is what i was thinking of, like the tamiya, evo 3 where the spur is between the aluminum and graphite, yeah, that is one thing the TC3 needs, is freakin straight spurs.
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Old 10-14-2003, 06:09 PM   #6479
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ok cool, uhh what about some kind of new motor clamp, with just the clamp, no heat sink...?(so you don't have to dremel it off, you can just buy one)
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Old 10-14-2003, 06:14 PM   #6480
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are threaded components hard to make using the machinery?(ie. shocks, screws, servo mounts, etc.)
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