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Old 10-11-2003, 07:49 PM   #6421
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They are regular 4-40 button head 1 inch and 1.25 inch screws.
6928 and 3929
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Old 10-11-2003, 11:45 PM   #6422
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mistercrash, and fathed, are you guys using the yok hd one-way with the composites as bones?, or running duel diffs?
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Old 10-12-2003, 02:18 AM   #6423
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Bubbles
I run on very tight technical carpet tracks, with lots of hairpins up here in Canada so it's the front diff for me. Of course, running a front diff helps to prevent breaking the composite CVDs.

berger
I had the same problem so I replaced the 4-40 screws with 3mm ones. The 3 mm are a bit bigger so they screw in tighter. This solved my problem. Use a good quality hex driver so you don't strip the heads of the screws.
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Old 10-12-2003, 05:56 AM   #6424
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Default SHIMING

HI GUYS,

JUST WANT TO HEAR HOW MANY SHIMS PEOPLE WERE USING, I AM CURRENTLY USING TWO EITHER END, ANYONE USING JUST ONE EITHER WITH STD GEARBOXES, OR WARPSPEED ONES

REGARDS BRAD P
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Old 10-12-2003, 09:53 AM   #6425
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Default Re: alm shock caps

Quote:
Originally posted by hyperformance
spine:
i was the inner threads, not tapped right or machined right or something. i got the first set from tower, called ae to tell them there was a problem, the guy in warranty though i was stupid but sent out another set . they were bad as well, just not as bad as the first set. i'll stick with the plastic ones, they have lasted 3 years and are still sealing well
Ok thanks for the info, I'll stick to cml's then or the org. ae plastic ones.

Regards
SSL
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Old 10-12-2003, 10:46 AM   #6426
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Quote:
Originally posted by shaft1
speedo....stop.....get your instruction manuel out or look online at AE for the proper assembly...the only trimming you should have to do is a debur where the bearings fit in and the two case halfs come together....then reassemle the shaft and set gear mesh with one only shim on the left side bearing moving the gears away from eachother...hope this helps
Thanks but I know how to put it together.

I guess I'll just have to keep filing
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Old 10-12-2003, 12:11 PM   #6427
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Thanks a lot Johnny!
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Old 10-12-2003, 02:44 PM   #6428
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Quote:
Originally posted by mistercrash
Bubbles
I run on very tight technical carpet tracks, with lots of hairpins up here in Canada so it's the front diff for me. Of course, running a front diff helps to prevent breaking the composite CVDs.
ok, because i was thinking that you were running composites with a one-way. at socal when i use a one-way, it is almost impossibal to use the composites up front(they just snap, and you end up loosing an out-drive). that was why i was sugesting using the steel ones, rather than using composites or aluminum ones that will either snap, or bend then snap while running with a one-way.
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Old 10-12-2003, 04:08 PM   #6429
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Im with Mistercrash... composite CVD's are the way to go. I never liked the idea of bending a metal CVD and having to replace it ($$$)... or have it vibrate the car with an 8 turn in it (ruined bearings), so i went with the composites and have loved them ever since. Doesnt matter what diff i use them with. I think i have broke maybe two in all the years i have had this car... and both were from impacts (one was head-on) with other cars in traffic, never from one-way use. I just add the IRS pincushions to the stock AE composite bone to protect the outdrive and go with it. I have noted on high bite carpet or asphalt with modified, the response can be inconsistent when stabbing the throttle... most likely because the composite bone twists under the load. Smoothing out the power transfer (trigger finger) or going higher on the speedo frequency seems to help that alot. Dunno... just thought i would add my .02...
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Old 10-12-2003, 04:38 PM   #6430
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ok, i still can not understand how you can run composites with a one-way!!!!

it is starting to baffel me!!!!!!!

i can understand aluminium cvd's, but i still don't think that composites will hold up to the head-ons that i have to deal with in sportsman at socal

it must be an act of insurance rather than performance for me though, why i run the steel cvd's, i do agree that the composites are great, and have less rotating mass than other cvd's on the TC3. so i would assume that running steel cvd's are more for the preventation of loosing an out-drive than performance

oh, dave, you can always bend them back...
haha

and, i have never raced on carpet before, so i would not know what the layouts are like...apparentley they are tight and twisty and all technicial
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Old 10-12-2003, 04:42 PM   #6431
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I race on a small carpet track in the UK, its open class as the commitee wouldnt allow stock racing when i proposed it , which is stupid as the kiddies run 12 turn motors geared incorrectly and pinball around the track. Im in the A main weekly running a stock motor against the other older more mature drivers and because of the tracksize im only 1/2 a second down a lap on the majority of the A. I run the aluminum cvds as they came with the kit (team) and ive left the front diff in and kept the standard shaft as ive not broken it so i have no reason to change it for an aluminum one.
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Old 10-12-2003, 06:06 PM   #6432
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Bubbles, if you hit something hard enough, a composite CVD WON'T survive the crash, but that'll be the ONLY thing that breaks, & that's why I use them. I stated out with aluminum ones, & even THOSE broke with a one-way(& I'm not talking about outdrives, only CVD Bones, remember one-ways use STEEL outdrives or hardened aluminum, I've never broken any part of a one-way). And if I can get CVD bones that are just as tough & light for about half the price of aluminum, I'll take it any day of the week. However, I do realize that if you run the composite diff outdrives, you can break those under enough stress(I've seen some friends of mine break them, but that also goes for Losi & Yokomo owners), but if you run all diffs(no spools or one-ways), the diffs actually help to protect the drivetrain, the same way a slipper does in offroad vehicles, because even when set very tight, a diff CAN still slip under duress, which helps dissipate the energy of a serious impact....
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Old 10-12-2003, 07:39 PM   #6433
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sounds like composite CVD's are the way to go!
the previous owner of my FTTC3 broke his aluminium CVD's in no time,changed to the composites(stingy fellow) and it's been in there since...
i was pissed at not getting the blue cvd's but i guess the black ones do serve their purpose!
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Old 10-12-2003, 08:10 PM   #6434
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Yeah, they do, they protect your pocketbook....lol
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Old 10-12-2003, 08:13 PM   #6435
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I figure I should get to put my two cents in. . .

Okay, I've broken shiny CVD's, aluminum CVD's and pretty much decided that I'm going to break CVD's.

The problem is that, when I break steel or aluminum CVD's, they shear off right at the head and I lose the outdrive - and they cost a LOT.

So, I try the composite (they're about $2.50 each instead of, well, a lot more) and, when they break, they generally twist off the pins rather than shear off - this leaves a pointy part that sits INSIDE the outdrive, keeping it in the car. This, I can live with.
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