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Old 10-10-2003, 11:22 PM   #6406
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what are you gaining
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Old 10-10-2003, 11:23 PM   #6407
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by doing this?
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Old 10-10-2003, 11:25 PM   #6408
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acually i forgot something to add so, im really slow so dont mind me.
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Old 10-10-2003, 11:28 PM   #6409
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fudge see.

wth where did the losi come up from.

i guess but i dont think ur blind.

i dont know i like the color, its cool, something differnt. but o well.

why do you want your car blue?


are you mad?
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Old 10-10-2003, 11:56 PM   #6410
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bubblestc3
[B]uhh you have more options than just aluminum, and composite...

i have been running MIP shiney cvd's for a while now, and they will bend if there is enough pressure, and i did snap one when i hit the back of an X-ray(it stoped the wheel so quickley and abruptley that it just snaped the bone part right off!), these are easier to get your hands on usually, but if you want some with less rotating mass...

Yes, I know about Shiny CVD's, but again, when using a one-way or spool(that has no give whatsoever) & you hit something, it becomes likely that SOMETHING will break, the only question is which part. And I for one prefer to lose a CVD(that I can replace for about $2.50 apiece when you average the cost of a package of them) than something more vital, like the main driveshaft(& I've seen it happen, a buddy of mine completely ripped his apart after he started using the Shiny CVD's, because they'd just transfer all the impact energy to whatever part of the car was the weakest). And when using normal diffs, you really don't need anything more than the composites, & in fact, they're lighter than the others, keeping rotating mass down....
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Old 10-11-2003, 12:06 AM   #6411
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i meant that response about when you run with a one-way, when you run duel diffs then you should always run the composites, but my opinion, i would rather spend more money on the shineys, than save money on the composites and risk the chance of loosing an out-drive($22 for the yok hd out-drives)
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Old 10-11-2003, 02:58 AM   #6412
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I use composite CVDs all around and I rarely broke any of them.... But then again, my TC3 as been on a shelf for the past 6 months But seriously folks, I chose to use composites because they don't bend, they break. A broken CVD is easily spotted and replaced. The aluminum ones I used before sometimes got bent but didn't break. I found that a slightly bent CVD is hard to spot sometimes and it just vibrates in a weird way, so I went with the composite ones. There light and cheap so I keep a few in my parts bin just in case. I ran all sorts of motors in my TC3 and the only way that my composites broke was if I clipped a board very hard. I like them so I'm stiking with them. This is only my opinion and I'm stiking with that too
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Old 10-11-2003, 04:40 AM   #6413
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I've run my TC3 for over 2 years now racing every week with composites and never broken or damaged one, running modified as well as prostock.
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Old 10-11-2003, 11:27 AM   #6414
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Im tending to have the screws for the front hubs fall/pull out which ends my run, i dont like using aluminum as they tend to bend and i "think" they are a bit heavier. Broke my IRS servo/transponder mount as well, the screw snapped off inside it and i cant get it out with pliers or dremel a flat head so i can screw driver it out, is it scrap or can someone help me?
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Old 10-11-2003, 04:38 PM   #6415
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Hey guys, do you have any ideas on how I could get the transmission in my TC3 to work - aka be free?

As I'll be starting carpet racing again very soon, I ordered a slew of new transmission parts for my car to replace worn out ones. Namely, transmission cases, diff and pinion gears, and drive cups for the shaft. I have the IRS lite-drives, so I didn't have to replace those.

Anyway, first off the transmission cases were way too tight on the bearings so I tried to loosen them up but after a few hours I gave up and ordered the pre-machined ones from Warpspeed. Also, the diff and pinion gears were way too tight, and when I tried to shim the pinion away from the diff it would rub on the diff case.

So yesterday I put the Warpspeed cases in, and the gears were still too tight. I used a dremel to take out a significant portion of the back of the pinion so it wouldn't rub, and also took out part of the bulkhead, probably took about 1.5mm of material away so I could shim the gear back further.

So now the gears are barely loose enough for 1/2 of the rotation, and for the other half they are still too tight. As this is my third set of bulkheads and second set of pinion gears in a week I am very frustrated and honestly I have no idea why the drivetrain is so tight. Any ideas would be appreciated, right now I'm ready to take a hammer to the whole thing.

Thanks
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Old 10-11-2003, 05:16 PM   #6416
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Josh, you should take out a couple of shims from the input shafts before you dremel, then if thats not enough they last resort would to be to dremel. Also try to shim the "diff" away from the pinion too.
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Old 10-11-2003, 05:21 PM   #6417
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I have tried taking shims out also. Can't shim the lite-drives because they are ever so slightly wider just next to the lip. Also can't use the plastic out-drives because i always melt them no matter what I do.
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Old 10-11-2003, 05:27 PM   #6418
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speedo....stop.....get your instruction manuel out or look online at AE for the proper assembly...the only trimming you should have to do is a debur where the bearings fit in and the two case halfs come together....then reassemle the shaft and set gear mesh with one only shim on the left side bearing moving the gears away from eachother...hope this helps
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:47 PM   #6419
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I'm not home right now so I don't have the instructions for my TC3 and I have a question. Does anyone know what size the screws are for the motor clamp? Thanks-mike
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Old 10-11-2003, 07:48 PM   #6420
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Josh, I had to do the same thing to mine. Just keep working on that tranny case until it no longer rubs. I just did up some tranny cases for myself and I am still not happy with them. Time to put the old ones back in.
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