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Old 10-01-2003, 08:40 PM   #6316
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i kind of had a problem like a faulty servo as well

but the servo mounts were loose and the servo would not stay seated properley, and the car would drift aimlessley down the straight untill i tightened the screws that mount to the servo
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Old 10-01-2003, 09:41 PM   #6317
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My steering has so much play in it anyway that the car drifts all over the place down the straight.
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Old 10-02-2003, 06:40 AM   #6318
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Quote:
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
Actually i think there are 3 versions, first batch of arms had no droop and only one mounting hole, the second version had droop holes and still only one mounting hole, and the updated version had droop holes and two mounting positions.
Actually there are 4 versions. The first design that was introduced with the kit was too weak around the inner hinge pins. The plactic was bulked up in the area and the arms were re-released.
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Old 10-02-2003, 07:36 AM   #6319
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I'm waiting for the post that says 'actually there are 5 versions'



I've never broken a suspension arm on mine - not even my oldest TC3, so I guess I've never run with the re-called items. I remember people saying that TC3's were fragile. Funny that the only part I ever broke was when a turn marshal trod on my car and broke the rear shock tower!!

Has anything like that ever happened to you guys?
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Old 10-02-2003, 07:45 AM   #6320
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Quote:
Originally posted by Me+RC=$$$
Sorry about that, I mean steering, had a brain fart, just be glad you weren't here to smell it
I'm glad I didn't catch a whiff of it!!

BTW, who's the gothic looking geezer in your Avatar? Isn't it that bloke from the band 'The Cure'?
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Old 10-02-2003, 12:06 PM   #6321
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ME+RC: LOL I hope that was your problem... like Boomer said, look for the smaller things first, loose servo mounts were mentioned too, good looking out, im just the kinda guy that has all the expensive things happen too. Cant just be a 3$ part, its usually the expensive, imported, not on the wall, out of stock at the factory, need it on saturday and UPS dont deliver, kinda part i need.

MikeD: Good to see you on here again man, where you been?

Boomer: I will post pics of the rack in a bit. I will take them in varying degrees of assembly to make it easier get the idea of what i was talking about.

- Dave
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Old 10-02-2003, 12:08 PM   #6322
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Quote:
BTW, who's the gothic looking geezer in your Avatar? Isn't it that bloke from the band 'The Cure'?
LOL, no, he's the lead singer of the band H-I-M, really good band. They travel all over the UK, but never come to the US They are really famous over there, so if I want to see them, it will cost a lot of $$$.....better spent on rc
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Old 10-02-2003, 02:40 PM   #6323
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Default The Cure

hey, what's wrong with the The Cure.... sure they make look like freaks, but the music's good

back to TC3 stuff, and the servo Cure (get it) ... clean the rack, i scrape the insides of mine (were the bearing or bushing ride) with an x-acto to get all the foam dust off of it. also clean the bearings or bushing the rack rides on. disconnect the turnbuckle from the servo, this way you can feel the servo & the rack independently to see were the resistance is coming from. on many "all metal gear" servos there is one (sacrifical) plastic gear. the metal gears really wear on this plastic one when the car takes a hit. you may need to replace this gear if the servo feels rough or chunky. if the servo is a digital be really careful during the rebuild to keep the gears sync'ed up, other wise the servo will not find its center when reassembled. i run the JR digital and keep spare gears on hand. i rebuild it once a season no matter what. the extra gears are only $2, it's worth that to keep a $120 servo performing well!
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Old 10-02-2003, 04:06 PM   #6324
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Ok this is a pic of the rack installed... i upped the quality of the cam to give you good detail...so i had to crop the pics to fit on the site. If you look closely you can see the shims between the bearings down in the rack...
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Old 10-02-2003, 04:08 PM   #6325
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This is a pic of the rack out of the car... you can see there is little gap between the flanged part of the bearing and the rack... but i guarantee you it moves as smooth as oiled icecubes...
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Old 10-02-2003, 04:18 PM   #6326
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Ok this is the breakdown of parts... if you look on the rack mounting screw, you can see a shim (black) that i use to raise or lower the rack to fine tune bumpsteer (in combination with B4 ballstud shims and a Losi Titanium ballstud out on the steering knuckle)... then add one flanged bearing... four silver (aluminum) shims from the Trinity shim kit (there are three types in the kit... brass the thinnest, black steel middle, and silver aluminum the thickest... the kit also comes with red o-rings...) place the set in the rack... add the last bearing on top of the rack and place the nut on top... you should be able to snug the nut down... and there be NO binding of the set. The bearings will let the steering screw move to both ends of the rack freely. It will seem to have slop in it, until it is installed in the car... trust me, you'll thank me later. Hope this helps guys...
- Dave
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Old 10-02-2003, 07:26 PM   #6327
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DaveW:
nice job!
what kinda propeller shaft is it?titanium or self made steel?cos i was thinking of making myself one from mildsteel bar.
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Old 10-02-2003, 09:41 PM   #6328
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that looks great!

Thanks!
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Old 10-03-2003, 04:08 AM   #6329
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Default Nice Steering!

Dave:

You went to all this trouble, just to show us how to make our steering racks even better!!!!! I've got a lump in my throat

That's what I love about this thread - cool ideas being shared.

Cheers to Dave.
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Old 10-03-2003, 05:00 AM   #6330
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Default DaveW

Hi! Great work on the steering!!!
Just a short question: have you tried the NTC3 swing rack on your car? Will appreciate your thoughts on the matter.
Thanks!
Lem
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