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Old 09-02-2003, 12:37 AM   #5971
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anyone know have a link to where i can get see and purchase the Crest chassis???
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Old 09-02-2003, 12:40 AM   #5972
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Arrow machined chassis

Hereīs another pic of the chassis.

The features:
.) batteries moved closer to the center !
.) enlarged motor opening -> better cooling !
.) weight saving: ~30g !
.) finest CNC-Quality !

Interested ? -> mail to manfred.resch@gmx.at
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File Type: jpg chassis 02.jpg (138.1 KB, 267 views)
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Old 09-02-2003, 01:58 AM   #5973
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Manfredo,

Please post a pic of the top of the car. Does the chassis come deburred, polished and ready to go? Or is there a little clean up work involved?


Thanks for posting! Looks awesome.
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Old 09-02-2003, 02:12 AM   #5974
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I will post a pic from the top of the car tomorrow.

The chassis comes copletely cleaned and ready to go.
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Old 09-02-2003, 05:40 AM   #5975
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Quote:
Originally posted by ROBORAT
anyone know have a link to where i can get see and purchase the Crest chassis???
here is the website!!!
http://www.raijin.com/crest/tc3/index.htm
just use alta vista world translate!!!

The conversion kit is 29,00yen for the motor left position
and 24,000yen for the standard motor position!!!

around US$240-263 for the left motor mount and US$190-218 for the standard motor position

whoaaah!!!! out of my league!!!!

You can also see the 2 spped conversion for the TC3 around US$300++!!!!

peace and happy racing!!!

Last edited by lem2; 09-02-2003 at 05:46 AM.
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Old 09-02-2003, 05:53 AM   #5976
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Can someone tell me how to get -(minus)2° Kickup on the front end of the electric tc3 ?

I donīt see a need for this setting but want to know how to do since it is mentioned in the tc3 setup sheet.

thanx in advance !
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Old 09-02-2003, 09:57 AM   #5977
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Manfredo, I haven't run -2 degree kickup or 2 degree anti-dive on the tc3 but I'm pretty sure they are shimming the inner front block up while using the 0 degree outer block. Try shimming the "F" block up .030~.060" and use the F-0 outer block.
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:20 AM   #5978
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I donīt think that Associated would have included a setting like this in their official setup sheet.

Maybe one have to use the inner rear block on the inner front psoition ???

Hopefully someone knows the answer...
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:35 AM   #5979
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If i'm not mistaken, Associated used to make an antidive (-2) front mount but they discontinued it because it wasn't used at all.
I don't think you ever need antidive. Maybe I'm wrong
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Old 09-02-2003, 12:28 PM   #5980
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if im not mistaking, if you used antidive, or two degrees of negative kickup, wouldnt it just wear out the outter part on the front of the tires?

you could always run f+0/F with 2 degree caster blocks on oppisite sides,

or run f+2/F with 4 degree caster blocks on oppisite sides,

or just shim up the inner front block


besides the only time i would think that this would EVER be useful is maybe in drag racing


and it says this in the manual?

i know that they(ae) have 0, 2, 4 caster blocks, with two options for suspension blocks F+2/F and F+0

and david, i dont remember if they did make those blocks
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Old 09-02-2003, 12:30 PM   #5981
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the negitave 2 degree's
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Old 09-02-2003, 01:34 PM   #5982
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Hi Guys,

I did a search in this thread and I couldn't find an answer to what I wanted to know, so I thought I'd go ahead and ask. BTW, someone posted a few weeks ago asking if anyone besides Yokomo and IRS made a spool for the TC3 - Dragon R/C makes one, as a matter a fact, believe that Mark Pavidis has used it from time to time... Anyway, back to my question?

Can anyone give me quick pointers on when a one-way or spool should be used? I've never tried using one (actually, I don't have either yet), so I'd like to know what situations I should be thinking about using one or the other vs. a diff... Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2003, 02:35 PM   #5983
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Hey manfredo, what are the dimentions of the depth you set the program to cut out of the bottom?
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:11 PM   #5984
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Quote:
Originally posted by bubbles
if im not mistaking, if you used antidive, or two degrees of negative kickup, wouldnt it just wear out the outter part on the front of the tires?

you could always run f+0/F with 2 degree caster blocks on oppisite sides,
That will give you 0 degree kickup/anti-dive with -2 degree caster blocks totalling your caster to -2 degrees-NOT GOOD!

Quote:
or run f+2/F with 4 degree caster blocks on oppisite sides,
This will still give you -2 degrees of total caster but with 2 degrees of kickup-still not good.

Best way to do it is by either finding those old arm blocks by Associated, have some custom made on a CNC machine or shim the inner arm mount up and use the F-0 outer arm mount. Also, if you do plan on using anti-dive, make sure you don't use the 0 degree caster blocks as this will create....negative caster.

Last edited by webspinner; 09-02-2003 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 09-02-2003, 10:46 PM   #5985
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Quote:
Originally posted by TurnNBurn
Hi Guys, Can anyone give me quick pointers on when a one-way or spool should be used? I've never tried using one (actually, I don't have either yet), so I'd like to know what situations I should be thinking about using one or the other vs. a diff... Thanks!
By all means use a spool when tracks DO NOT allow the use of one-ways.
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