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Old 08-28-2003, 07:55 AM   #5926
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DaveW,

You get both front & rear cases for $45 shipped. As far as whether or not the reduction in drag is worth it, it is. I'll be the first to admit that driving skill is everything. If you stuff a wall once, you've just blown your qualifier and it doesn't matter how fast your car is. However keep it clean, and any advantage you have over your fellow racers will show through. I think it's worth the money.
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:16 AM   #5927
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Default Aluminum outdrives & bearing size

Okay guys, I need some help. I just bought some IRS Lite Outdrives and I have a question about bearing size. I noticed that the bearing well in the aluminum long outdrive is deeper than in the molded outdrive. Can I use the same bearing that was in the molded outdrives or do I need to buy a bearing that is a little thicker?
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:20 AM   #5928
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Default Motor Clamp Spring and Screws

does anyone know where to get these?

I saw them on associated's website but I can't find them at tower
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:25 AM   #5929
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DaveW-I actually wonder if all that free spin could make you slower on some track layouts!! For example-the drivetrain on my NTC3 was so free that I couldnt drive that car without massive drag break. So much I rarely id ever push braked that car.

but this is electric and 99% of the time I have roll dialed into my radio-so maybe it will drop lap times after all.

Fuzzy-you shoould just be shimming the outdrives normally with the normal bearngs. Maybe one or two on the long outdrive side, none on the other I think.
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:58 AM   #5930
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Hi folks, hate to break in to the conversation but I figured if anybody could help, this is where I'd find you. I'm getting back to using the TC3 and I'm in the market for a good used FT. If you folks know of one ...please let me know. I have posted a request in the wanted section also. Thanks
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Old 08-28-2003, 11:27 AM   #5931
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At my track we are going to start running foam tires in the 19t class and I was wondering if you really needed to cut the tires down to racing diameter just for practice. I'm just looking to get some time in on foam tires so I can work on driving with them and getting my car set up.

Another thing I'm looking to figure out is how to figure out your roll out with foam tires. To figure out your final drive you do SPUR/PINION * 2.5. But with foams you have to include your tire diameter because it changes over time. So I'm wondering if anyone knows how to do that and would share it with me?

One more thing, but this is for my radio set up. I have a Futaba 3PJS, does anyone have any ideas what I should change from going from rubber to foam tires? I know I should probably change my steering exponential if I feel like it. But what about the thottle curve and stuff? Do I need to change that at all? Thanks for any input on all my questions .
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Old 08-28-2003, 11:32 AM   #5932
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Default Re: Aluminum outdrives & bearing size

Quote:
Originally posted by Fuzzy
Okay guys, I need some help. I just bought some IRS Lite Outdrives and I have a question about bearing size. I noticed that the bearing well in the aluminum long outdrive is deeper than in the molded outdrive. Can I use the same bearing that was in the molded outdrives or do I need to buy a bearing that is a little thicker?
Fuzzy - The IRS Lite Outdrives use the same parts and bearings as the Associated Steel Outdrives.
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:29 PM   #5933
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ROLLOUT- final drive/ tire diam in inchesXpie
7.5 / ( 2.53 X 3.14)- do this first

I run my tires from the box for club racing and practice. I make the most use I can out of the foam.
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:36 PM   #5934
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Do you have to do your roll out in inches? Or did you say that because that's what you just do. Because I do my roll out on my 12th scale in MM and it works fine, I'm just askin to make sure doing it in MM is fine. Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:39 PM   #5935
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Yes but when you ask other racers u have to ask them how they are figuring it out. Because a rollout in inches will be different than in mm by far.
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:47 PM   #5936
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racer dx if you do it inches or mm's it dont matter. what ever you feel comfortable with. at the end its still a unit of measurement the hard part is trying to convert from mm to inches or visa versa.
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Old 08-28-2003, 03:14 PM   #5937
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DaveW - I built a racer kit for a friend who I raced against at a local track and was surprised (pissed actually) that he was right with me considering I had a bunch of hopups on my car. The Racer kit is a kitass car for the money, but my point is that you DON'T need a lot of hopups to be competitive. The diff cases made sense for me because my drivetrain was binding badly. After cleaning my bearings, they would spin on my finger for ten seconds at least, but still my drivetrain only spun for about 2 seconds. After several hours of dremeling/testing, sanding/testing, I still only got it to spin for between 6 and 8 seconds. With nothing else changed, I added the Warp diff cases and got the 16 seconds. I don't have lap times, but I could feel the difference. Other drivers started accusing me of running a 19T. I went from consistent third fourth and fifth place finishes to first and second place finishes. My car wasn't faster on the straight, but it was so much faster out of a turn that it seemed like I had a mod. If your drivetrain is binding and you've cleaned and checked your bearings (and they're okay) then your problem is in the molded cases. You could spend the time modifying them yourself or your can buy the Warpspeed cases...It's your choice. I've bought from them before and knew their stuff was solid plus these cases with the helicoils strengthen your front end.

BTW - they come as a set...front and rear and they do have the extra hole - NTC3 style

Hope that helps
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Old 08-28-2003, 04:26 PM   #5938
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Default Re: Aluminum outdrives & bearing size

Quote:
Originally posted by Fuzzy
Okay guys, I need some help. I just bought some IRS Lite Outdrives and I have a question about bearing size. I noticed that the bearing well in the aluminum long outdrive is deeper than in the molded outdrive. Can I use the same bearing that was in the molded outdrives or do I need to buy a bearing that is a little thicker?
I really hope you bought the IRS pin cushions to go along with those really nice outdrives. First set I bought I did not know about the pin cushions and after a couple races noticed I had badly notched the out drives where the dogbones ride. This was done using a stock motor, would hate to see what a mod would do. I heard Niftech makes some squared drive units that are real nice, just enver seen or used them.
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Old 08-28-2003, 04:36 PM   #5939
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
Ok. You guys are peaking my interest. Do the cases from Warpspeed come as a pair, or do you have to buy two at the mentioned price? Are they the multi-holed design that works on the NTC3 shock towers? Sixteen seconds IS substantial over a standard drivetrain. DOTMAN, you mentioned blown bearings... what did you replace them with? Ceramics? I am still not convinced that all that freespin is necessary... someones laptimes would be a good thing to see, pre and post Warps tranny cases. Do the other guys you run against in expert stock run the Warp cases DOTMAN? Im not challenging you in anyway, just truly interested from a "scientific" point of view. One of the bad things about this sport, is one person that is fast at a local track can buy a new product and swear its the bomb... and everyone will go and buy it... even if it didnt substantially increase his laptimes.

One of my close friends from back home in VA got started in TC about four years ago with a TC3 that had every aluminum piece and hop-up the industry offered at that time. He got depressed in his performance and got to the point he felt no need to race if he didnt see any improvement. I asked him to buy a TC3 Racer kit (back when they came with teflon bearings) brand new, and he and i (i mostly) would build the car together. We took our time building the car paying attention to details, and making a few modifications on the way. No hopups (not even threaded shock bodies), some transmitter adjustments, and a few battery packs later, he was LAPS over his previous performance... not tenths of a second, but LAPS, and in the A. He has since gotten very good with his car, and proficient with setup. He doesnt get to run as often as he used too, but when he gets the rust off his trigger finger, hes fast, and always in the A at local races. I guess all i am trying to say is, it isnt always the parts you buy that makes you fast, but its making the most of what you have.

If the Warpspeed cases DO make a notable difference on the track in terms of laptimes, and not just "spintime", then i would be interested in them as well. The helicoils added would make the cases worth the money... as they would never strip, and most likely last the life of the car. I understand there is a thread on here for Warpspeed... but the discussion was mostly "plugs" about the chassis and the center brace. Any info would be appreciated in terms of track results.
- Dave
There is no doubt in my mind that many of the so called hop-ups are nothing more then bling (items used to enhance the looks of a car while adding little or nothing to the performance of said vehicle). For me there is no doubt that a free drive train is going to benefit me in the long run, even if I have to use drag brakes to make corner entry feasible. The more efficient your drive train is, the quicker the acceleration and the load on the battery and motor will be less for a given amount of torque. Whether I can put this gained energy to good use or not is another story altogether.
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Old 08-28-2003, 04:42 PM   #5940
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ESCs have a little drag to them already too. A free drivetrain will only help you.
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