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Old 07-16-2003, 08:18 PM   #5536
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Is the Warpspeed Chassis plus stand offs and screws to hold them on plus motor mount the same weight as a stock TC3 Graphite chassis?
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Old 07-16-2003, 08:21 PM   #5537
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Haven't weighed it personally, but thats what Mr Warpspeed tells me.
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Old 07-16-2003, 08:31 PM   #5538
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It would be something to actually test and see the numbers of the two. That stock Chassis is really light I dont know if the plate plus all the other parts that make up the chassis the same way the stock one comes would be less weight then a stock one. There is only one way to find out thats thats to weight it all for yourself.
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Old 07-16-2003, 11:35 PM   #5539
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Question: Who needs a 200mm electric Chassis ?????
Because of the NTC3 suspension components the chassis is too wide. So this thing is definitely nothing for racing.

Another thing I donīt like is the battery position: It looks as the batteries are placed like on the stock chassis, so what advantage should that have ?

And the last thing I see ist that the Motor mount is a pretty simple part. I would prefer the clamp-style motor mount from associated. Also the motor mount on this chassis shold ba lighter as the orginal one, so that the chassis is even more unbalanced than the original.
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Old 07-17-2003, 06:27 AM   #5540
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Actually you might want to look a little closer at the picture. It says "SHOWN WITH NITRO TC3 SUSUPENSION (STILL 190MM)" so I don't think that will be a issue. As for your other concerns..I don't know thats why I am asking if anyone has run one

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Old 07-17-2003, 07:11 AM   #5541
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Hi guys, I havent posted here in a while, but now I have my internet access back, here goes...

I have a question for all you free-transmission gurus out there. I have dremeled the diff cases and front/rear hubs where all the bearings sit, as well as the centre bearing in front of the spur gear. It freed my car up a lot, but I still want more...
The bearings are cleaned after every meeting, and I'm using the stock teflon ones with the inside seals removed and a drop of royal oil. Is there anyhting else I can do to get my car free-wheeling for more than 10 seconds?
I'm stuck at 8 seconds after a fairly hefty spin of the back wheels.
Thanks,
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Old 07-17-2003, 07:31 AM   #5542
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You may get to 10 seconds just by letting the gears break in into each other. They will wear out into each other creating a better mesh which will free up the drive train a bit more. If you have to service the diffs, put marks on the gears so you can assemble them back in the same way it was before so that you don't loose that mesh.
I'm still not sure if this freeing up the drive train to the extreme is that much good for the overall performance of the car. I'm pretty sure that going too far in loosening up the bearings can be a bad thing because if the bearing is not held firmly enough, it might vibrate into its receptacle, making that space bigger and bigger over time.

Just my $0.02
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Old 07-17-2003, 03:11 PM   #5543
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Technically the more free-wheeling your drivetrain is, the more power is gonna be transfered to the ground. However, there is a certain point i believe like mistecrash said, that it really does not make a noticeable difference. If you lightly push one of the wheels and the drivetrain rotates easily, then IMO it's free enough.
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Old 07-17-2003, 05:03 PM   #5544
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Default Milled Chassis

Hey guys,

The chassis are on the way to the machinest right now. Funny thing is they are going via Summit Point race way!!! My bro and the machinest are racing there this weekend so they just decided to exchange there. So shouldnt be too long before they are done.

Also-thanks to all those who have ordered one and all those who have reffered people to me that already have one. Again-I am not doing this to make a ton of dough-so please excuse the long wait on them!!!

Ray
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Old 07-17-2003, 06:47 PM   #5545
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qestion guys.. will be changing my steering knuckles and c hubs to losi ones and i cant remove the hex adapters. have not forced it out yet, might break something. would you guys have any tips in mind? thanks!
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Old 07-17-2003, 07:36 PM   #5546
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im guessing you are using the plastic/graphite hexes, this happens from time to time , You can use a knife and lightly pry evenly around the hex, you can use plyers but will most likely mishape the hex adapters.
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Old 07-17-2003, 07:42 PM   #5547
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the adapters are aluminum. will soaking it in wd 40 loosen this? just asking around to be sure before i try stuff. thanks johny for the quick reply though.
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Old 07-17-2003, 08:39 PM   #5548
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simply take a pair of wire cuters and pretend your going to cut the axle off right behind the wheel adapter. gently close the cutters and the adapter will push its self off very easly.
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Old 07-17-2003, 09:03 PM   #5549
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thanks jason. will try that out later. just to be safe, will spray wd 40 first. hehe! theres always a firs time for newbies. hehe!
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Old 07-17-2003, 11:11 PM   #5550
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Quote:
Originally posted by JasonC
simply take a pair of wire cuters and pretend your going to cut the axle off right behind the wheel adapter. gently close the cutters and the adapter will push its self off very easly.
That's exactly how I remove them as well ... the jaws of the cutters act like a wedge and the hex slides off easily.
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