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Old 07-01-2003, 01:21 AM   #5446
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
I put the rear shock tower on the front.... similar to baker's but now I have almos no suspension travel... so I cut the cups & sprint retainers.. and got some back..


HOW exactly do you setup with the rear shock tower?


Thanks

Rich
Hi Hard Jokur,

I think you haven't pull out the shims inside the dampers, but if you haven't got the suspension arm with droop screw, you have to measure out how many shims inside the damper require to make the correct droop amount.

For the droop settings, I'm always start with front 5.5mm / rear 4.5mm on "AE Droop gauage" with rubber tires (63.5~64mm diameter).

If track is high traction, not too bumpy, fast layout or mainly sharp corners, I will goto front 6mm/ rear 5mm.




Last edited by DanDan; 07-01-2003 at 01:30 AM.
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Old 07-01-2003, 01:27 AM   #5447
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Quote:
Originally posted by DanDan
Hi Hard Jokur,

I think you haven't pull out the shims inside the dampers, but if you haven't got the suspension arm with droop screw, you have to measure out how many shims inside the damper require to make the correct droop amount.

hehehe forgot about the shock limiters.... and to make matters worse I have the original chassis (no droop here)

how many limiters do you suggest & what shock setting, I have #2 & 40wt in there now
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Old 07-01-2003, 01:39 AM   #5448
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
hehehe forgot about the shock limiters.... and to make matters worse I have the original chassis (no droop here)

how many limiters do you suggest & what shock setting, I have #2 & 40wt in there now
My droop settings is upon your post.

For the oil weight, I start with 30wt ~45wt No.2 piston with rubber tires on asphalt surface.

If the car feels like response too quick, or feel slow on some high speed corners (large diameter turns), or car looks like keep bounching on everywhere. I will go 10wt heaver oil and try it again until I like it. If feels too much, become sluggish or bumpy (tires always off the ground crossing bumpy sections), I will go 5wt ligther oil weight until I like it.

hehhehe.. setup a car is a little bit like cooking.. make it yummy ae..

Mainly for me, I use 30wt oil when the track is small and tight corners track. If track is large and a lots of high speed sections, I will go with 45wt.

Last edited by DanDan; 07-01-2003 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 07-01-2003, 03:49 PM   #5449
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man i never thought that could be so darn easy thanks a lot arecee i got it off super easy dude

-r
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:15 PM   #5450
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Quote:
Originally posted by fhubbard
You are incorrect, limiting droop in the front will yield more on-power steering. Less rear toe will allow the car to rotate more, not quite the same effect as less front droop, but close.
Oh yeah, oops, brain fart.
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Old 07-01-2003, 07:51 PM   #5451
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Quote:
Originally posted by Axiom5B
Oh yeah, oops, brain fart.
I've "brain farted" so many times, they often call me stinky pinky...
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:12 PM   #5452
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To use the rear shock tower in the front, you need to space up the shock tower...0.125". Then you will retain ALL the suspension movement and adjustments that you previously enjoyed with the normal shock tower.....and more.

It REALLY does work.......but you might find yourself looking for rear traction then! hehe
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Old 07-02-2003, 04:49 PM   #5453
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Does anyone have Mark Pavidas's setup from the roar nats?
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Old 07-03-2003, 04:48 PM   #5454
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ttt
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Old 07-03-2003, 05:09 PM   #5455
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ttt what does that mean?
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Old 07-03-2003, 05:13 PM   #5456
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Quote:
Originally posted by noline
ttt what does that mean?
ttt = To The Top ... it just keeps this thread on the first page of this forum ...
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Old 07-04-2003, 12:01 AM   #5457
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Default Steering Blocks

What can I do or use to keep the ball end from coming loose from the top of the steering block? This seems to happen alot to me. I heard the Losi steering blocks work better? Is this true?

Can anyone help a brother out?????

Thanks,
John G.
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Old 07-04-2003, 12:12 AM   #5458
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you can use half a drop or so of thread lock, or use the losi steering blocks, good results so far after i used the thread lock, it was just enough to absorb the vibrations and abuse while still being able to remove the ball end and reinstalling it.
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Old 07-04-2003, 11:40 AM   #5459
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That was happening to me a lot on my right steering block, it turned out that it was just stripped out. So I just put a drop of CA in the hole and let that dry so I could re-thread the ball stud into it. Make sure that the CA doesn't fill the hole up completly or you wont be able to get the ball stud in very easily, just put enough in to it coats all the sides of the hole. I haven't had a problem since, but when it comes loose again I'll just drop in some more CA. Hope this helps
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Old 07-04-2003, 12:50 PM   #5460
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RCJohn,
The main problem, and easily fixed, use a different type of ball end. They NEED more of a coarse (less threads per inch=more space between threads) ball stud. The solution? Purchase a pair of titanium ball studs.
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