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Old 06-23-2003, 10:37 AM   #5401
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anyone running the Novak brushless noticed that no ballast is needed to be put on the right side of the chassis...man!this ESC is really heavy....running on IRS chassis with GP3300 and electronics are KO2143/KO301F/a fan for the esc/Novak SS/dummy transponder w/ IRS holder/no motor heatsink/motor clamp heatsink was also dremel off , i need like 25grams of weight on the battery side...this was done by the hanging of the car by the 2 screws with holes that's used for the battery strap....anyone else running the Novak care to input some balancing tips??
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Old 06-23-2003, 11:15 AM   #5402
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What grease do you TC3 drivers put on your gears to help breaking them in before you cover them in teflon lube? Rick
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Old 06-23-2003, 02:57 PM   #5403
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Quote:
Originally posted by Finsy
anyone running the Novak brushless noticed that no ballast is needed to be put on the right side of the chassis...man!this ESC is really heavy....running on IRS chassis with GP3300 and electronics are KO2143/KO301F/a fan for the esc/Novak SS/dummy transponder w/ IRS holder/no motor heatsink/motor clamp heatsink was also dremel off , i need like 25grams of weight on the battery side...this was done by the hanging of the car by the 2 screws with holes that's used for the battery strap....anyone else running the Novak care to input some balancing tips??
You hung the car by the battery strap post holes? That's way off-center.

Try just looping some line around the drive shaft at the front input cup and rear input cup. The shaft is dead center and you should have a better time of balancing. . .

unless you just put down the wrong screws. . . DOH!
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Old 06-23-2003, 04:47 PM   #5404
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
You hung the car by the battery strap post holes? That's way off-center.

Try just looping some line around the drive shaft at the front input cup and rear input cup. The shaft is dead center and you should have a better time of balancing. . .

unless you just put down the wrong screws. . . DOH!
LOL...i'm never good with words.....likewise with rc ....what i meant was i hang the car using the screws with holes that is screwed in on the extra hole on the center of the diff cover
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Old 06-23-2003, 04:49 PM   #5405
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Quote:
Originally posted by Finsy
LOL...i'm never good with words.....likewise with rc ....what i meant was i hang the car using the screws with holes that is screwed in on the extra hole on the center of the diff cover
yeah, I figured something like that - just couldn't resist!

The thing is that friggin heavy? wow
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Old 06-23-2003, 04:56 PM   #5406
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
yeah, I figured something like that - just couldn't resist!

The thing is that friggin heavy? wow
yes it is......with the size slightly larger than a servo and the huge heatsink ...i could say it's at least10times heavier than my Quantum Comp without putting it on a scale...without the fan and the dummy transponder I would not need any ballast on the battery side coz it is just slightly heavy on the motor side
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Old 06-24-2003, 05:59 AM   #5407
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what chassis is this and who makes them, the upper deck looks killer!!!

any info???

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...?postid=411646

Thanks!!
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Old 06-24-2003, 08:52 AM   #5408
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That looks like the Flap chassis kit. Speedtechrc.com will be selling it soon
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Old 06-25-2003, 09:57 AM   #5409
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Hi Guys,

Just FYI-I will be having my machinest do one more small batch of my Milled Tc3 chassis. I am going to see if he can do between 5 to 7 of them. They shold be done NO sooner than two weeks from today, but not more than four weeks-or end of July.

As always-thanks for everyones patience. This is not meant to be a money making deal for me-its just about making a cool product that makes us faster!!!! Thats one big reason I dont keep them in stock. If I did-I am sure it would tie up tons of my cash and end-up losing me money!!! And I am not rolling in dough-if you catch my drift!!!

But I like trick stuff!! Someday I am going to build my own 4wd electric sedan!!! Fast, efficient, easy to drive, adjustable, durable, stiff, untweakable and LIGHT!!!!!!! Yeah-right!!!

Thanks again,
Ray
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Old 06-25-2003, 05:02 PM   #5410
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hey guys anyone tried the RDLogics aluminum die-cast trans cases they look kind of sweet and there only 20$
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Old 06-25-2003, 05:19 PM   #5411
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Ray, what's the consensus on exactly how much we should mill out of the chassis? I've thought about it, but I want to be sure not to remove too much material....
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Old 06-25-2003, 05:26 PM   #5412
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grizzbob,

I take the battery box down 0.050" and move the batteries in 0.50". I open the motor opening 0.10" per side and make a big hole under the servo. I also drill two holes under each of the tranny cases. All the holes are for weight!!

I didnt take any out in the electronics area cause its a pain trying to get an ESC and receiver to stay in with a sliver of graphite. I also dont open the motor hole totally because the molded motor mount can and does warp-so I believe in leaving some meat there for the longevity of the chassis and alignment of the pinion and spur!!

Ray
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Old 06-25-2003, 05:27 PM   #5413
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Last edited by rayhuang; 06-25-2003 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 06-25-2003, 06:29 PM   #5414
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anyone list down the page regarding rpm/brp bumpers (which is better)? hehe! kinda lazy looking for it. thanks in advance!
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Old 06-26-2003, 12:00 AM   #5415
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I just finally put the graphite chassis on my tc3 for the first time, and I was wondering why the battery does not need to be isolated from the chassis's sides. Isn't graphite a conductive material? Does the "graphite composite" not conduct like regular graphite?
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