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Old 05-25-2003, 09:51 PM   #5176
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Default Re: FT TC3 Front lower arm breakage (version2)

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Originally posted by ASWK-TC3
Hi to all,

need help. I have had my FT TC3 for about 2 months and in this time i have broken 3 Front lower arm (version 2). It happens every time my car hits the side kerb. even when off throttle (i am using 15 turn). I am curious why i keep breaking the arm so easily when it is graphite. I noticed that it breaks at the area when the suspension arm is screwed into the lower arm.

Have any of you had this problem?

Can i solve it with a stronger and bigger bumper?

Also, will after market arms be better? How about the normal arms (non graphite) be compared to the graphite ones?

Cheers
I have 3 TC3s (yeah I know ... I can only drive one at a time ...) ... 1 has the large front and rear bumpers (BRP or RPM, I can't remember) and the other 2 have the stock bumpers ... In my experience, the larger bumpers help a bit, but I find that sometimes I tag a board hard and don't break an arm and other times I just tap a board and I am out of the heat due to a broken arm ... this could obviously be because of a previously stressed part or the angle at which the forces of the collision are applied to the arm ...

To make a short story long, I think that the larger bumpers help, but I would still keep a couple of spare arms in your tool box ...
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Old 05-26-2003, 11:25 AM   #5177
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Where am I supposed to find the side and larger front bumper from RPM, or Bud's racing products, i cant find them on Tower. Can someone please give me a link
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Old 05-26-2003, 11:30 AM   #5178
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http://www.kthobbies.com/store/tc3_parts.htm

your local hobby shop should have them most likely

johnny
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Old 05-26-2003, 11:54 AM   #5179
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These are what yer looking for......

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...er&FVPROFIL=++

I haven't broken once with my RPM front bumper. I don't think the rear bumper is necessary. I don't run any rear bumper on my car . Never had a problem yet.
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Old 05-26-2003, 04:08 PM   #5180
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Default Re: Re: Re: wiley

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Originally posted by lem2
whats up?? did the reciever fixed the problem
still the same with a different receiver...as of now my FTTC3 would be left alone to be shelf queen....
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Old 05-26-2003, 10:05 PM   #5181
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Heres some idea I have that might work:
Remove you servo and make sure that the steering operates smoothly with no binding. If there's binding, fix it than check to see if you problem is still there.
Try a different transmitter. That's all I can think of now, hope you figure it out! I'll let you know if I have any other ideas.
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Old 05-27-2003, 04:55 AM   #5182
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Default Rear Toe-In

Does any one else's TC3 have inacurate rear toe in. I have checked mine and 3 of my friends, and they are all wrong - around 3.5 on the right and 2.5 on the left.

What is the deal?
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Old 05-27-2003, 06:54 AM   #5183
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Default Re: Rear Toe-In

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Originally posted by rfree02
Does any one else's TC3 have inacurate rear toe in. I have checked mine and 3 of my friends, and they are all wrong - around 3.5 on the right and 2.5 on the left.

What is the deal?
In this thread, I think tony p. talked about the way the rear hinge pin hold was install may have stretch the plastic un-evenly to make the right and left toe different. The sugestion was to purchase a new rear hinge pin holder and re-install it. This time pay close attention to install both hinge pins at the same time and give even pressure to both hinge pins while inserting the rear holder.

I tried this server times and still have the same problem. I have seen other tc3 with the correct toe, but when I asked the owner, he just gave me the same story.
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Old 05-27-2003, 07:01 AM   #5184
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Theisgroup-if I can make it out to the machinest today-YOur Milled chassis will ship today!!!

Ray
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Old 05-27-2003, 07:44 AM   #5185
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Default Rear toe problems...

When i get a new chassis... one of the first things i do is make sure all mounting holes are where they are supposed to be. I had a chassis that let the rear toe get messed up as mentioned above... and solved it by using a countersink bit with a centering drill bit. I wasnt actually trying to countersink the holes anymore... but was trying to center the hole... with the countersink itself. The angled part of the screw, is what will force the screw when tightened, one way or another... if the angled part of the hole that the screw sets in, is off. All it takes is a little bit.. and your rear toe will be off. Kinda like where your battery slots are. Havent you noticed that they arent pointed and angled to allow the battery to sit as low as possible? Its like the plastic was still so warm when it came out of the mold... that it slightly deformed like warm chocolate would... it looks like what paint does when it sags on a body, along the edges of the battery slots. Well anyways, after i did this... i never had a rear toe issue... and i run a rear bumper and swap from one toe in block to another and it is always dead on. Installing your toe blocks with the hingepins in place... no transmissions or anything else on the car... will allow you to measure accurately with calipers, all hingepin angles relative to the main chassis. Doing this will let you know which screw hole needs to be relieved. What i find interesting, is noone has seen that this problem has also existed on the front of the car. But most likely it is assumed as turnbuckles... and not the hingepin mounts themselves, that change the toe. If you can get all four suspension arms 90 degrees to the main chassis (0 degree toe front and rear as a starting point)... then swapping toe blocks for the rear will no longer be an issue. I hope i have explained this well... reading it looks a little confusing... its always easier to show someone than put it into words!

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Old 05-27-2003, 04:35 PM   #5186
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That made sense. What your trying to say is just enlarge the countersunk area on the screw holes a little bit so it doesn't make the position of the screw off, right? I'm gonna try that, I'm not sure if I have rear toe problems because I've never checked. But I might. My car seems to handle fine anyway though.

rayhuang- How can I order one of your chassis? How much do they cost? I'm in need for a new chassis because I have one of the old chassis with now droop adjustment. My chassis is also probably tweaked from running my tc3 as a rally. One more thing, do you include foam or something else to keep the battaries from sliding around in the enlarged battary space?
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Old 05-27-2003, 06:39 PM   #5187
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ESC help

CAN anyone help me fine a GM racing v12xc speed control. I have looked but I have not found anything..
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Old 05-27-2003, 07:17 PM   #5188
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theres one on ebay right now

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=2565
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Old 05-27-2003, 08:46 PM   #5189
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Wiley- Here's another idea I had to figure out your servo centering problem. One you TX reverse the steering servo. Than try steering left and right. The servo doesn't center after steering right, but it does center after steering left? If the transmitter were the problem, when you reversed the servo, the servo wouldn't center properly on the opposite side it didn't center before. So the servo would center after steering right, but not after steering left. Try this and see if it works. I have a feeling that your transmitter isn't working properly. You could also try the transmitter in a different car and see if it works than.
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Old 05-27-2003, 10:31 PM   #5190
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Default IRS TC3

Just bought a used IRS TC3 and am wondering if any of you guys running this chassis did try the battery to the center mods.As i see it , there's still room to move it inwards.
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