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Old 05-15-2003, 02:59 PM   #5116
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Correct me if I'm wrong ... but it seems to me that you guys have it backwards ...

If you have more shims between the axle pin and the bearing, when you tighten the axle nut it will bind the bearing more since you have more material between the hex and the bearing ...

I run mine without any shims at all because of this reason exactly ... I was running with 1 shim, but I noticed that when I went to no shims it freed up my drivetrain ... I now have a tiny bit, but not an excessive amount, of side to side free play ... but with the shim in, I had next to no side to side free play and my drivetrain did not spin as long ...

Dean
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Old 05-15-2003, 03:04 PM   #5117
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yes it is easy to think of it like that but, when you shim it prevents the roll pin and hex to bind against the bearing too tight, the shims does touch the bearings but only on the inner race so it is still able to spin freely. We arent trying to free the drivetrain here, just trying to prevent the wheel from locking when tightened. The reason your drivetrain is more free is because there is more slop.

Thats just what i think but i may be wrong too :?
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Old 05-15-2003, 06:26 PM   #5118
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Default Gear Grease

Who uses grease on the gears, and what kind? Who runs them dry and why?

I took my car apart, cleaned or rebuilt everything. I noticed a ton of grease in the diffs. I would think this did more harm then good. With no grease this frees up the gears to spin faster and easier.

What do you guys do.

Any input would be great for a rookie like me.

Thanks
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Old 05-15-2003, 06:45 PM   #5119
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I use Losi white grease when running mod.

Not totally necessary in stock, but it does quiet the car down a bit.
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Old 05-15-2003, 10:12 PM   #5120
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I don't use any grease at all in either stock or mod ...
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Old 05-16-2003, 01:45 AM   #5121
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Lightbulb Re: Correctly tightening wheel nut

Here is solution for avoiding effect of over tightening wheel nuts:

1654 Factory Team Axle Pins.

http://www.rc10.com/misc/database/db_ftparts_tc3.htm

After this mod you donít need to play with shims, original one piece is ok then. Just make sure that you bearing are working after over tightening situation.
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Old 05-16-2003, 02:55 AM   #5122
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How do these wheel pins help? Made of stronger material so they won't bend? I don't understand ...
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Old 05-16-2003, 03:28 AM   #5123
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Okay, the help comes as a side effect. These pins really do not bend at all. When you tighten wheel nuts, you now feel clear edge when the wheel nuts are tightened.

There are also other benefits; drive train will be freer due to wheel nuts/bended pins are not squeezing wheel bearings anymore. If you have one way on front, you really see big difference when a wheel starts to spin free for a longer time.

And even thatís not all! The wheel nuts donít drop while running so easily anymore due to they are now tighter from the beginning. You can screw them tighter without a worry that wheel stops spinning.

If you want you can bye 1.7 mm drill bit and cut them to correct length and you have new hard pins very cheap.
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Old 05-16-2003, 07:58 AM   #5124
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Yokomo makes a sweet set of hex-hubs for the TC3 that use an o-ring to hold the pin in place. To space them correctly, you first need to make sure the inner crush sleeve... or internal bearing spacer, hits the inner race of both bearings in the hub. I only say look at this, because i had a set of hubs that were done wrong from the mold. When i placed both bearings in place with the sleeve, the bearings would not seat fully in the hubs. Remove the hub from the arm with the axle, bearings, sleeve, and hex hub installed with no shims. Then add your tire and the nut, and tighten without using the force of Hulk. Move the tire around on the axle... there should be no more than 1/32" of play between the outer bearing race... and the hex hub the tire is mounted too. Add shims appropriately. Repeat. When you have the hubs shimmed correctly, there will be little play (1/32") when the tire is installed... and much more play when the tire is off the axle. What matters is when the nut is tightened, that there is no binding. After this is done, the hub should spin freely while you hold the tire in one hand... and should balance itself. If it stops abruptly... or spins slowly... and the shimming is correct, you have gritty dirty/heavy grease/ trashed bearings. Like MikeD said... it only takes a good whack on the boards to trash a bearing. Hope that helps...
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Old 05-16-2003, 11:29 AM   #5125
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Default Original Team TC#

Hello, I have an early Team TC3(took some time off). It seems like I have to start turning at previous corner to make next corner. Have there been any recent changes to TC3 that make it handle better? I race in parking lot with medium grip. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Front
Original
F+2
Gold springs
30 0r 35 wght oil kit oil
0 toe
2 degrees neg. camber
0 caster blocks

Rear
Silver springs
30 or 35 wt oil kit oil
F+3+2 3toe 2 kickup
2 degrees neg camber

Yokomo med insert medium tire
Airtronics 257 or 357 servo
M8
Stratus Body protoform
No tire sauce

Car has good traction, I just have steering wheel cranked lock to lock constantly to make corners.

End points are set
No exponential on radio
Thanks

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Old 05-16-2003, 11:40 AM   #5126
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Default Re: Original Team TC#

Quote:
Originally posted by Charles
Hello, I have an early Team TC3(took some time off). It seems like I have to start turning at previous corner to make next corner. Have there been any recent changes to TC3 that make it handle better? I race in parking lot with medium grip. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Front (use rear shock tower) (use sway bars)
Original
F+2
Gold springs --- change to blue
30 0r 35 wght oil kit oil
0 toe
2 degrees neg. camber
0 caster blocks ----- use 4 degree caster blocks

Rear
Silver springs ----- use green or silver
30 or 35 wt oil kit oil
F+3+2 3toe 2 kickup
2 degrees neg camber

Yokomo med insert medium tire
Airtronics 257 or 357 servo
M8
Stratus Body protoform
No tire sauce

Car has good traction, I just have steering wheel cranked lock to lock constantly to make corners.

End points are set
No exponential on radio
Thanks

try to stand the shock in front using the rear shock tower, use sway bar in front, remove rear sways.

this is what I did, you may also try a locked diff in front, and also check if the rear diff is too tight.


have fun---- Peace!!!!
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Old 05-16-2003, 12:03 PM   #5127
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Charles - check your rear droop. Your current setting may not be allowing enough weight to transfer to your front tires. Earlier versions of the TC3 didn't have droop screws though so you'll need to adjust droop by removing spacers from your shocks.
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Old 05-16-2003, 12:04 PM   #5128
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You could also try some harder oil all around.

Lems advice sounds like a good direction for you...
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Old 05-16-2003, 03:09 PM   #5129
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Hey, My TC3 has a problem.

It does broties turning left, but steers normally turning right. My end points are the same (equal throw) I have tried a front one-way and a diff, I have moved the batteries around, added weight in various places and on both sides of the car. I am pretty sure all the bearings are good.


Whats wrong with it? Anybody else have this problem.

I cant figure it out.

Anybody want to buy a TC3 for $100??????
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Old 05-16-2003, 03:40 PM   #5130
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tear down your front end and rear end and rebuild the left side, and check your bearings and cvds and droop ... there could be more factors but check those also make sure your steering block is not loose , the screws tend to get loose on them after a few hard runs.
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