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Old 05-12-2003, 02:16 PM   #5071
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The old Associated one-ways used a 4mm bearing, the new Associated one-way and the Yokomo use a 6mm bearing. Much more durable.

Hope that helps.

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Old 05-12-2003, 02:18 PM   #5072
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Crash: Im assuming then if they are identical... the ASC parts should retrofit. Im guessing what makes it "heavy duty" is the one way bearing? Heck im confused!

Impact: I hear that becomes an issue the older you get... how old are ya? Im just wondering if this is something i need to be worried about... cant get the track chics if im leakin on myself!

Proud: Thanks for the input! In the pic i seen of the bladder caps on the website, there is a black round foam thing.. i guess you place that between the cap and the bladder to increase rebound? UPS says i will be getting my order Thursday... i hope it dont show up while im at the theatre watchin "The Matrix Reloaded"... gotta love Fandango.com and preordered tickets! Anyways... im goin to practice tomorrow... just wishin i had the darn one-way!!
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Old 05-12-2003, 02:26 PM   #5073
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Dave, yes that little round piece of foam that comes with the bladders is put between the bladder and the upper shock cap piece, that is there to hold the bladder in place so no oil leaks out when you tighten up the shock cap. There will be instruction with the kit.
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Old 05-12-2003, 02:53 PM   #5074
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That little round piece of foam serves another purpose. As you compress the shock, the bladder pushes inward (the middle pushes towards the top of the shock). The foam helps push it back out. Bladders over time will indent and stay there without that piece of foam. The only proplem is over time the foam gets squashed so much that it losses it's ability to rebound (it gets flattened) so a lot of people have changed to using two o-rings instead. They have a lot more rebound and don't give as much so you'll have to bleed the shocks a little more to get proper shock action
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Old 05-12-2003, 04:01 PM   #5075
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Hooked:

What I did instead of removing the whole screw hole is I just cut about a third of the screw hole out. I'm sorry if it's not very clear, I can't think of any other way to describe it. So instead of removing the whole hole that goes undernieth the tranny case, I just removed a part so to remove the bumper all you have to do is remove the suspension arm mounts and then loosten the transmission cases, then pop the bumper off. If anyone knows what Im talking about but thinks they can explain it better that would be appreciated.
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Old 05-12-2003, 04:09 PM   #5076
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Do you guys think I should get at one-way for my tc3? How much harder is it to drive, if it is harder, or is it just different? If I did get one, what changes to my set-up and driving would I have to make? If I decide to get one, I'll probably get it in the summer cuz I'll be able to make it out to track a lot more because NO SCHOOL!! !!!
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Old 05-12-2003, 04:28 PM   #5077
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Actually, here are the instructions. You're right on that dotman.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg yokomo-diaphram-info.jpg (74.4 KB, 144 views)

Last edited by webspinner; 05-12-2003 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 05-12-2003, 04:33 PM   #5078
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Racer - if you use a lot of break in your driving still then you'll have a lot of adj to make. You can't use break with a one-way. Also, if the track(s) you run at has poor traction, a one-way will make the car feel really loose (almost undriveable). Changing your setup depends on you driving still and track conditions. One thing to remember when using a one-way...set your speed control to have NO drag break. I actually set mine to roll forward in the throttle neutral position to make sure I don't get motor drag.
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Old 05-12-2003, 04:54 PM   #5079
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I don't use a lot of break, but sometimes I use a little. Should I try using no break in my driving style so when I switch to a one way it won't be as different? I have a cyclone tc, and none of the throttle settings on it have a drag brake adjustment, I think only the cyclone has it. Is this correct? I race on carpet and so there is a pretty good amount of traction. I know a lot of people use one ways and I would probably be able to get some help from them. But I thought I would ask here first because not everybody have tc3's at my track. Now there's more of a varaity of x-rays, evoIII's, and the new yokomo. But there are still some tc3 drivers, and lots of people used to race tc3's and switched. But I'm sure I'll be able to get some help. Thanks for the help!
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Old 05-12-2003, 05:34 PM   #5080
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i am getting a TC3 and wanted to know what will be the first thing to break on it.
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Old 05-12-2003, 06:34 PM   #5081
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Racerdx6,

I tried the one-way and really wasn' t all that impressed with it. I just have my car set up for more steeringwhen on the throttle so that I am forced to keep on it while driving into and out of the turn. I have tried the one way set-ups with an mr4tc,a axis2 and my tc3 and I never saw what the hubub was.

As far as break goes,you pretty much never want to use the break other than to avoid a collision. How long do you think it takes for your finger to go from throttle to break to throttle?? I don't think most people realize how much time that eats up in stock class. MOd is a whole different story I'm told,but even then I can keep up with a chameleon 19t (original) with only a steady throttle finger and a good set-up.

The tc3 has a lot of steering already incorporated into it's design. I have also found that leaving the front diff adjusted per the manual and tightening (not locking) the rear diff will also yield a car that exits like a oneway(which a front spool does not). Some food for thought. Keep us updated--Al
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Old 05-12-2003, 06:45 PM   #5082
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Quote:
Originally posted by CRASH
For carpet racing I am running 6 front 4 rear for droop. I am basically running the factory setup for carpet. The car is planted extremely well.

Later
Correct me if I am wrong but I really can't see how this setting works. The car would have a heap of up travel like 5 to 6 mm up travel. I am sure from driving a car around a track that it would never even touch the droop screws.

As I said please correct me if I am wrong and give me your thoughts on this.

Coxy.
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Old 05-12-2003, 06:48 PM   #5083
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I think he means on the tc3 gauge......
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Old 05-12-2003, 07:41 PM   #5084
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Quote:
For carpet racing I am running 6 front 4 rear for droop. I am basically running the factory setup for carpet. The car is planted extremely well.
Quote:
Correct me if I am wrong but I really can't see how this setting works. The car would have a heap of up travel like 5 to 6 mm up travel. I am sure from driving a car around a track that it would never even touch the droop screws.
I first tried my TC3 with this set-up. It was anything but planted on carpet. The rear end wanted to come around all the time, on power...off power...into corners and coming out of corners. Better when using traction compound, but still not planted.

I'll be adjusting my droop next time at the track, and will go from there.
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Old 05-12-2003, 07:59 PM   #5085
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Need more info: Carpet with rubber or foams? Big difference in setups.

Traction compound needed for both. I always sauced all 4 tires all the way around, carpet or foam.
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