65LikesTC3 Forum
05-07-2003, 08:45 PM
#5041
64 pitch 72 teeth would be about the size of a dime ... exagerated a bit but it would be tiny ...
05-07-2003, 08:53 PM
#5042
Standard config (48-72) ... what sizes do you already have?
Looking at Trinity's website ... the GM3 is a high RPM motor, but is probably a little sluggish off the line since it is intended for long flowing tracks ...
I would probably start with a 22 or 23 on the tight track and go with a 24 to 26 (start with the 24 and feel how it performs) on the more open track ... but keep in mind that I have no experience with the GM3 ... this is where I would start off if I was trying to find the right gearing for myself ...
Looking at Trinity's website ... the GM3 is a high RPM motor, but is probably a little sluggish off the line since it is intended for long flowing tracks ...
I would probably start with a 22 or 23 on the tight track and go with a 24 to 26 (start with the 24 and feel how it performs) on the more open track ... but keep in mind that I have no experience with the GM3 ... this is where I would start off if I was trying to find the right gearing for myself ...
05-08-2003, 12:41 AM
#5043
TC3 One-way
FYI:
Just got my hands on the latest AE TC3 one-way (new part # 3978) and the good news is it's the Yoko-based hub (w/the larger ring gear support), and comes with the new yellow ring gear. Mystery solved. Thanks for the info guys.
Just got my hands on the latest AE TC3 one-way (new part # 3978) and the good news is it's the Yoko-based hub (w/the larger ring gear support), and comes with the new yellow ring gear. Mystery solved. Thanks for the info guys.
05-08-2003, 12:48 AM
#5044
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
hehe no prob, he is actually a sponsored driver , so im thinking he did it right. im just not sure what else to check.
hehe no prob, he is actually a sponsored driver , so im thinking he did it right. im just not sure what else to check.
05-08-2003, 02:09 AM
#5046
Tech Adept
hi
what is the diameter for the stock FTTC3 roll bar(sorry i got no caliper to measure)...i saw that BRP has optional swaybars with .55 / .62 / .78
and also i cant remember where i read about it but there was some mod done to either front or rear inner hinge pin holder for easy access...anyone read or done this before??
is the rear toe-in mod done using the front suspension arms/hub/steering knuckles better than using the losi hubs for ease of toe-in adjustment...i was thinking of doing the mod so that i would just need to keep stock for the front end parts
thanks for reading
happy racing
what is the diameter for the stock FTTC3 roll bar(sorry i got no caliper to measure)...i saw that BRP has optional swaybars with .55 / .62 / .78
and also i cant remember where i read about it but there was some mod done to either front or rear inner hinge pin holder for easy access...anyone read or done this before??
is the rear toe-in mod done using the front suspension arms/hub/steering knuckles better than using the losi hubs for ease of toe-in adjustment...i was thinking of doing the mod so that i would just need to keep stock for the front end parts
thanks for reading
happy racing
Last edited by wiley; 05-08-2003 at 02:19 AM.
05-08-2003, 02:33 AM
#5047
The FT TC3 comes with .060 sway bars.
05-08-2003, 02:44 AM
#5048
Tech Adept
Originally posted by seamus0g
The FT TC3 comes with .060 sway bars.
The FT TC3 comes with .060 sway bars.
05-08-2003, 05:24 AM
#5049
JohnnyTC3- odds are 5-1 that if you pill apart the left front steering knuckle you have a detonated bearing, or busted cvd..... remmber you have to tear both apart!! But you will find something wrong!!
But first do a simple test... hold the car in the air and give it throttle, then release the throttle so that the wheels roll to a stop. take note of whic wheel stops first (probably left front....... remotely possible -- right rear) Next check for these things.......
1- Axle shim not on outside of axle before the roll pin.
2- bearing detonated (my bet)
3- CVD damaged
OHH yeah also check for---
4- bent hingepin (inner and outer)
5- busted plastic parts (arms,c-hub,steering knuclke, ect.....
6- Diff outdrive bearings
7- over tghtened wheel nut......
Some of this stuff may sound stubid and obvious, but don't be an "ohh it can't be that or I woulda noticed that).... check them!!!! When you car doesn't act right and there are 2 cause... and only 2!!!!!
1- faulty set-up (you seem to have eleminated that)
2- Mechanical failure.... there can't be anything else.......
BTW: I always start with mechanical failure because I don't end up finding a bsted bearing and having a car that is all out of whack..........
IF all else fails then maybe you got a ZOOLANDER
........ (can't turn left properly....LOL 
)
But first do a simple test... hold the car in the air and give it throttle, then release the throttle so that the wheels roll to a stop. take note of whic wheel stops first (probably left front....... remotely possible -- right rear) Next check for these things.......
1- Axle shim not on outside of axle before the roll pin.
2- bearing detonated (my bet)
3- CVD damaged
OHH yeah also check for---
4- bent hingepin (inner and outer)
5- busted plastic parts (arms,c-hub,steering knuclke, ect.....
6- Diff outdrive bearings
7- over tghtened wheel nut......
Some of this stuff may sound stubid and obvious, but don't be an "ohh it can't be that or I woulda noticed that).... check them!!!! When you car doesn't act right and there are 2 cause... and only 2!!!!!
1- faulty set-up (you seem to have eleminated that)
2- Mechanical failure.... there can't be anything else.......
BTW: I always start with mechanical failure because I don't end up finding a bsted bearing and having a car that is all out of whack..........
IF all else fails then maybe you got a ZOOLANDER
........ (can't turn left properly....LOL )
05-08-2003, 06:29 PM
#5050
TTT
05-09-2003, 09:37 PM
#5051
40 Hours without a post on the TC3 thread ... WOW
That is not including my TTT post ...
That is not including my TTT post ...
05-09-2003, 09:53 PM
#5052
Tech Adept
Originally posted by wiley
hi
and also i cant remember where i read about it but there was some mod done to either front or rear inner hinge pin holder for easy access...anyone read or done this before??
is the rear toe-in mod done using the front suspension arms/hub/steering knuckles better than using the losi hubs for ease of toe-in adjustment...i was thinking of doing the mod so that i would just need to keep stock for the front end parts
thanks for reading
happy racing
hi
and also i cant remember where i read about it but there was some mod done to either front or rear inner hinge pin holder for easy access...anyone read or done this before??
is the rear toe-in mod done using the front suspension arms/hub/steering knuckles better than using the losi hubs for ease of toe-in adjustment...i was thinking of doing the mod so that i would just need to keep stock for the front end parts
thanks for reading
happy racing
thanks
05-09-2003, 09:53 PM
#5053
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
impact player,
i stripped down my car last nite to the brim, took out all the bearings, checked the binding on every suspension arm, droop was ok, rebuilt all shocks, check and tightened every cvd, and carriers... every thing seem ok but some of my bearings were kinda gritty. I race tomorrow so ill know if the bearings were what messed my car.
i stripped down my car last nite to the brim, took out all the bearings, checked the binding on every suspension arm, droop was ok, rebuilt all shocks, check and tightened every cvd, and carriers... every thing seem ok but some of my bearings were kinda gritty. I race tomorrow so ill know if the bearings were what messed my car.
05-09-2003, 10:04 PM
#5054
Originally posted by wiley
anyone has ant answers to this??
thanks
anyone has ant answers to this??
thanks
05-09-2003, 10:53 PM
#5055
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
Yes, If you take the front and rear bumpers off of the car and remove the material that goes around the diff cases, now the bumpers and pin mounts can be removed with 2 screws while allowing the diff cases to be left attached.....
Yes, If you take the front and rear bumpers off of the car and remove the material that goes around the diff cases, now the bumpers and pin mounts can be removed with 2 screws while allowing the diff cases to be left attached.....