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Old 04-30-2003, 08:53 AM   #4966
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Thanks Rich. That Hudy tool is a godsend. Do you happen to remember how much the Schuie parts were? I had a 2000 TC when it was out many years ago... sweet car with alot of potential... crap shocks though. When you say buy the axles... is it a whole set containing the bones and the axles? I dont know if they split the part#'s like ASC does. Those blades do sound promising... i bet they even work well in the lightweight outdrives. Oh.. and here are the pics i was talkin about earlier... i had to call the lil woman to remind me how to pull them off the digicam. :UH:: LOL
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Old 04-30-2003, 08:56 AM   #4967
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Last one...
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Old 04-30-2003, 09:12 AM   #4968
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DaveW-I hate to see what the tires on your street car look ike!!!

That cars pretty cool looking!!! nAnd it s so Clean for having run all that practice!! GOtta love air compressors!!!

Ray

p.s. Hi Rich-your my hero!!!!
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Old 04-30-2003, 09:13 AM   #4969
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Wow - that is some tire wear!

This is the part number:

U2033M Plastic "Blade" Driveshaft - SST (pr)

You'll want two packages of those. Off of the Schumacher website they are $12.99 so I assume they should be cheaper at the local hobby store.

-Rich
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Old 04-30-2003, 09:15 AM   #4970
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How can I be your hero when you are my hero?

I bought one of those Tamiya F1s today. I'm in the process of putting it together. I wish it came preassembled. I have no desire to put it together. I just wanna run it!

Oh - Bean called in sick on Monday. Paul and I think it is because you whipped on him so bad on Sunday.

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p.s. Hi Rich-your my hero!!!!
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Old 04-30-2003, 05:22 PM   #4971
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Ray...YES! Air compressors are the one and only tool a true r/c enthusiast HAS to have... well.... next to an extensive spur gear collection!! I cant have a dirty car... comes from runnin carpet for years in VA. The shop had a compressor on site for all to use... man i used that thing for my chargers, the car, you name it! And yes... the tires on the Prelude ARE thin.... LOL

Rich... How does that tamiya look quality wise? I have seen alot of pics on here of that car... well the 4WD one at least. And it looks well engineered. But everytime i think of a Tamiya car... all that comes to mind is an old TA03 mid i had years ago. THAT CAR WAS A PAIN. The diffs stripped... constantly. I was curious of the workmanship of the F1 car. From a distance it sure looks sweet! Thanks for the info on the blades... im hopin they can give me the durability i need! C-YA!
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Old 05-01-2003, 07:26 AM   #4972
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just bought FTTC3 and have a few question ...

1)anyone with a BRP nerf wings how does it mount on the side of the chassis??taped??shoo-goed??or need to drill holes??i'm doing one myself and BRP website doesnt show how it's mounted

2)drive cup on the front transmission seems to have some movement and i traced it to the bearing inner race on the input shaft have some slop in it or maybe it's the input shaft as all the other bearing seems the same on the input shaft....would coating the shaft with a thin bead of CA to take up the slop be advisable??..also this is a new kit(FTTC3) so bearing and input shaft are new...IRS input shaft

3)how many shims do you guys have on the input shaft??it seems mine need ony one on the front and none on the rear to have the drivetrain free

4)removed all bearing seals to flush out all the grease in it and found that if i fit in one seal back , the bearing doesnt roll freely(drag) but without any seals it is very free...this happen only with the smaller bearing...diff bearings are free even with 2 seals...by the way transmission cases have been slightly scrape by exacto knife to ensure no binding of bearings

5)i decide to take away both seals out from the inner front input shaft bearing...is this ok as transmission case seems to be pretty seal up to have both seal out...the rest of the bearing has one seal on it

6)as i have read the whole 4000++ of this thread it seems that there are a few opinion in the plastic diff holding up in mod...so please do let me know if anyone has a say in these

7)thinking of getting the IRS pin cushion but as i've read in this thread someone broke 2 aluminium CVD to push out the stock pins....do i really need the tools to get it out??considering that i might want to get the steel outdrive and metal against metal would wear the outdrive faster....ok i know i could use the composite dogbones but i like blue better

Option parts on the kit :-

1)IRS input shaft
2)IRS spur gear holder
3)IRS servo/transponder mount
4)Trinity large bumper
5)Trinity Foam bumper


ok that's about all for now...will have more question later

by the way , there someone(cant remember the handle...too lazy to search ) here whom did a step by step instruction on chassis mod and also making upperdeck it seems that the webpage had all the pics removed

i'm close to finish reading all the post in these thread and there are a lot of useful info here

outta here

cheers
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Old 05-01-2003, 07:55 AM   #4973
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1)IRS input shaft
2)IRS spur gear holder
3)IRS servo/transponder mount
4)Trinity large bumper
5)Trinity Foam bumper

1) heard they where better, but never used them myself

2) truer runout on your spurs can never be a bad thing......

3) nice looking, but alot of tracks I have ran at require the transponder to be mounted inside the parimeters of the chassis.... But even that being the case the servo mounts seem to strip out quite easily.....

4) Use it along with an RPM front bumper and your front end is almost bullet proof!!!

5) I like the big bumper with the cut-outs in it.....

You didn't have to remove both seals just one to flush the bearings out..... replacing them is a real BIATCH.....

The standard pins don't wear very much on the steel outdrives, but if you are gonna go with aluminum outdrives to save weight you may want to use the pincussion or Schumacher blades.......

BIG TIP---- to remove the pins fron the aluminum cvd's use a propane tourch!! hold the cvd firmly and place a pair of vice grips on the pin, heat the end until the pins simply slides out.... Insertion may be another deal all together.......
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Old 05-01-2003, 08:18 AM   #4974
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Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
You didn't have to remove both seals just one to flush the bearings out..... replacing them is a real BIATCH.....
Be carefull if you have the FT bearings, I had a couple where the other side come off when flushing them out with motor spray.
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Old 05-01-2003, 08:23 AM   #4975
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That's why I really don't "flush" them , I usally let them soak in mineral spirits over night which dissolves the origional lube, then allow them to air dry ad relube them... to clean just drop them in a small jar of mineral spirits and shake vigeriously.......
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Old 05-01-2003, 08:34 AM   #4976
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The BRP nerf wings require drilling of the chasis. Moutn them so the wings are on the top (higher). If you mount them low, they might hit the ground on hard cornering.

Removing pins: Use some heat, not sure about a blowtorch, but a butane fireplace lighter will do the trick to loosen them (contract the metal). I use an old motor can with the armature out and endbell removed. The pin will just fit in the bottom shaft opening. After heating the pin, tap it even with a hammer (lightly) then finish with a small pin/hex driver/screwdriver, etc. It won't take much if you heat it first. Also, the magnets catch the dropped pin.

The pin cushions will help save the plastic or aluminum outdrives. Even if the plastic outdrives wear out, they are so cheap to rreplace. Never used steel, no experience. The plastic outdrives will work fine in mod if they are adjusted properly ie no slipping.

DO NOT put CA on the input shaft. A little play is normal especially with the IRS parts you have.

Don't get too crazy with the freed up drivetrain. It looks cool, but to a point, won't help too much on the track.
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Old 05-01-2003, 01:20 PM   #4977
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whatīs about the NTC 3 steering in the TC3? I remember I saw one picuture of this here in the forum but I didnīt find it again. Whatīs the reason for the NTC3 steering and is it a direct fit?
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Old 05-01-2003, 05:44 PM   #4978
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wiley- on the front irs shaft you should have had to slightly sand the groved section on it to custom fit it to you bearings. so unless you sanded to far you should have a pretty snug fit.

v12- basically the ntc3 swing rack set up is less of a hassle than the stock sliding rack. when using the swing rack you also change the ackerman considerably, because of the extreme angle on the steering links. some guys have said the car seems to turn it smoother as well. this is one of the only popular mods i have not personally tried, but seems like it might be worth it.


btw-no it is not a direct fit, you need to mill out most of the webbing on the front end of the chassis. you then need to drill two new mounting holes as well as a few other small modifications for clearance.
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Old 05-01-2003, 06:30 PM   #4979
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Tc3 Milled chassis update.

my machinest who is milling my chassis' just introduced his own line of sprockets for 125cc shifter karts and wont have anytime to do anymore for me after this week. I will have only two left after fulfilling past orders. I know spaz456 wanted one in the fall. if you want the last one-please e-mail me and I'll give you the details.

Sorry guys,
Ray
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Old 05-01-2003, 06:44 PM   #4980
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ray- ygm
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