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Old 04-21-2003, 01:48 PM   #4846
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Which Baker setup are you using?
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Old 04-21-2003, 01:48 PM   #4847
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Oh...is that last years's Reedy?
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Old 04-21-2003, 02:14 PM   #4848
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Yeah, last years Reedy race setup. The only thing different is I had #1 pistons in instead of the #2 because I didn't have time to rebuild the shocks. I had to make like 17 changes to my set up to match his setup sheet. I've got the chassis milled out and everything.
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Old 04-21-2003, 04:41 PM   #4849
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tried doing a search on the forum. couldn't find any info on free wheeling.

how would you modify a tc3 drivetrain so that the cars spin more freely and longer without the motor attached?

i know you may have to trim the gearbox and re-oil the bearings.

anything else?

any help would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-21-2003, 05:04 PM   #4850
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I manage to break a composite CVD with a diff up front. But I'm sure it's not that hard. One thing you should consider is that aluminum CVD's will develope play in the tiny hole where the little metal pin goes through that gets screwed to the axle, that's probably not very easy to understand sorry. It's the metal pin on the axle side of the CVD. So it's kinda a choice which one fits yer price range. If you continually bend alum. CVD's and breaking plastic ones, try a steel piece from MIP. They should be pretty durable. Here's a question, could I smoke a motor by clamping down the motor clamp to tight and causing lots of stress on the shaft? I smoked a p2k and I'm just trying to figure out how.
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Old 04-21-2003, 05:27 PM   #4851
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racer - light bearing oil, dremeing the diff case, and adjusting the axles shims is basically how you free up the TC3 drivetrain.

racerdx6 - if you had your gear mess so tight that it was binding your drivetrain, it would cause a lot of stress on your motor, which translates into excess heat and could cause it to burn out.
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Old 04-21-2003, 05:28 PM   #4852
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that should be gear mesh
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Old 04-21-2003, 05:32 PM   #4853
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Dotman,

Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-21-2003, 08:12 PM   #4854
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I broke my Shiny in front with a regular diff, sucks.
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Old 04-22-2003, 03:16 AM   #4855
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for those who ran barry baker's set-up... especially, the rear shock tower up front, what did you notice about it? did it add on power steering as the shocks were more upright?

i tend to run my shocks with the shock position inward... more initial steering and on a little on power steering as well. i'd like to know if you guys have a different experience...

also i run my rear diffs looser than the fronts, makes the car more forgiving...
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Old 04-22-2003, 06:41 AM   #4856
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It gives tons of steering all around. The rear tower gives tons of turn in. The spool gives you alot of steering coming out. The swaybars keep the body roll to a min so combined with the milled chassis to move the batts over and the transitioning becones awesome too. It's not an easy setup to drive. I'm really having to work to get used to it. But I can tell it is a fast setup. It's right on the edge all the time. A good, smooth driver (like Barry) will be able to exploit that.
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Old 04-22-2003, 08:15 AM   #4857
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Mostly, the rear tower up front is used with the spool. The spool causes a push and the rear tower creates more steering to compensate.

The only setup I've seen is a Juho with the rear tower and a one way. Can't imagine the turn-in on that!
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Old 04-23-2003, 07:11 AM   #4858
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-highwayman,
I also run my rear diff looser than the front. I have my front diff at the stock settings but my rear diff is so loose that it slips on initial excelleration but once I am moving it doesnt slip anymore. This gives so much steering that I can go through a very sharp turn while only giving it half steering input. This also makes it very easy to get out of crashes.
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Old 04-23-2003, 09:22 PM   #4859
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Does anyone know how much those stainless steel spools go for?
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Old 04-23-2003, 11:42 PM   #4860
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The gear mesh was perfect, I think I shorted the motor. The two comm segments that were burnt had a bunch of comm and brush debris between which probably shorted it.
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