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Old 11-28-2001, 06:28 PM   #466
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Default bump steer

what would the effect if i add a .090 washer ?
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Old 11-29-2001, 06:04 AM   #467
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In general you don't want bump steer, but it can be used for a tuning option. Look at one of your front wheels from above when you compress the supension. If you get more toe-out/less toe-in when compressed, you need to shim your steering block ball stud until you get the same toe angle through the entire travel. Also have in mind that bump-steer will change if you change kick-up or caster.

I think a 0.09 shim is the right amount if you run 2 kick-up and 2 caster.

I hope you understand what I mean.
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Old 11-29-2001, 05:29 PM   #468
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Anyone know of a good place to buy a soldering station? The only one I have found is at HobbyPeople, buts its only 40 watts. I was looking for higher. The make is Weller, since Ungar is no longer in business.
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Old 11-29-2001, 09:42 PM   #469
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Wolfman09:

try HaKKO soldering stations. I used one in the aerospace industry. it's WAY better than the weller or Unger ones. only about $100 US. I bought one and I can never keep peeps from borrowing it at the track.

try action-electronics.com/hakko.html

they are really nice peeps to deal with too
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Old 11-29-2001, 09:52 PM   #470
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Airwide:

youre right. I wasn't thinking when I posted that. anyway here's what we did. we mounted a ball stud in place of the middle outer screws on the bulkhead/diff case. we ended up with a .09 shim under it.
we didn't run it at Cleveland as we ran out of time on the track. we will run it at our club track this Sunday and I'll post the results. this will be on foam tires in stock on ozite. with the stock 2 degree front block and 2 degrees at the front "C" carrier. we did run this last year on a big carpet track with some luck but this will be on a track close to Cleveland's size

Tony P:

really liked your site. cruzed in just before work. (DOH) I needed more time there to see and read everything.

Airwide: the same goes for your site too.


Thanks
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Old 11-30-2001, 07:17 AM   #471
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Fakk2: Thanks....still have alot of work to do...need a digi-camera to take some pix for the tuning portion...

Matt: Fry's carries Weller and Hakko, and it's right near the track!!!
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Old 11-30-2001, 07:21 AM   #472
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Tphalen: are there any pics of your tweak station on your homepage?
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Old 11-30-2001, 08:52 AM   #473
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Default hakko station

I have one of these from Fry's. 79 or 89 bucks. I am extremely happy w/ it. get a fatter tip though. It comes w/ a pretty small chisel tip which will make it perform like a 40watt pencil.
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Old 11-30-2001, 09:18 AM   #474
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Quote:
Originally posted by badboy
TPhalen : hi!!! i'm currently using a factory team TC3. do i have to change some of the parts for the "worlds setting"? thanks
Um.... After running several TC3 of mine (the actual is the fifth kit and is a FT). Buying a straight box kit you have a serious 'competition killer'. But, if you want that your TC3 kills more and better than the competitors (grin) get this:

Front 2 degree castor blocks.
Cooper spring
Red spring

From IRS, get:
# IRS145 - Aluminium input shafts (reduces tranny inertia).
# IRS147 - Composite CVD's (reduces inertia).

Optionally, to preserve in long term your tranny and gears in a good shape maybe you can get the Trinity TK5038 (Al spur gear adapter, prevents spur gear blobbiness).

A good setup for asphalt can be like this:

Front:
- 60wt with #3 piston.
- Copper spring.
- Upper shock position: center hole.
- Upper link position: stock.
- Camber: 1
- Caster: 2
- Anti Squat: 0
- Toe-in: -1 (well toe-out).

Rear:
- 60wt with #2 piston.
- Red spring.
- Upper shock position: External.
- Upper link position: Stock.
- Camber: 1.5
- Toe-In: 2
- Anti Squat: 0

Tyres: ProLine 1095 S3 with Yokomo ZR-037S inserts.
Battery placement: Backwards.

With this setup, the car would be very speedier, and docile to drive. With less traction, try the same setup changing the 60wt for 50wt oil and switch the springs for Gold front and blue rear.
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Old 11-30-2001, 09:34 AM   #475
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
Reedy motor...GREAT choice!!! I would suggest something fast but not stupid fast...maybe like an 12, 11 or possibly a 10. Depending on your track, the traction will dictate which wind to get. A Single will give you TONS of punch while a Double, Triple or Quad will be much smoother. High traction, get a Single. Medium to low traction, get a Double or Triple.
Good choice!, here's my recipe for using 12 turns Reedy (In Europe we race with a 12 turns max winds).

Get a Reedy Ti, with stock brushes and stock springs, if you have lots of traction, get a double wind, has more torque than the singles and where the acceleration is a premium (Make sure that your double comes with a bye-bye button at no charge (grin) ).

This motor has lots of torque and according to this, it likes larger ratios, my personal experience says that using this motor on my TC3, the ratio should be between 5.3:1 (33/72) and 5.9:1 (30 or 31 with 72 spur).

At larger tracks, my choose is a single wind (Reedy Ti Singles has less torque) and they have lesser acceleration and low end torque. Ratios about 5.4:1 to 5.8:1

About messing with the timing, I've good experiences setting them about 20 (in fact all my Ti are about 20 timing (18 - 22 depending the armature). This applies to 12's and 11's, timing too high 10's accelerates their wear at almost lightspeed.
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Old 11-30-2001, 01:49 PM   #476
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Lots of good info, Corse-R, but I have to disagree with you on the TI motors. The Singles have alot more torque than the doubles...in fact, at the latest Nationals, I ran an 8x1 and it was good on the infield, but just didnt' pull as well as my 8x2 on the straight. In fact, I think I ended up running a 8x2 for qualifying because it just ran better down the straight on a larger track.
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Old 11-30-2001, 09:04 PM   #477
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Johnny Racer:

You can order a bigger tip from the above place. I got a 3.2 tip from them when I bought my HaKKo. also there is a Fatter handle out too but it still uses the same tips.


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Old 12-01-2001, 06:41 AM   #478
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
Lots of good info, Corse-R, but I have to disagree with you on the TI motors. The Singles have alot more torque than the doubles...in fact, at the latest Nationals, I ran an 8x1 and it was good on the infield, but just didnt' pull as well as my 8x2 on the straight. In fact, I think I ended up running a 8x2 for qualifying because it just ran better down the straight on a larger track.
Toni:

My info is related about the 12's who is my preferred motors to race (in Europe we run with a 12 turn limit), and in fact, on 12's the torque is higher on the doubles, check this:

Those are dyno pulls of my 12's doubles (in fact, I have on with a whooping 54oz of torque), my singles peak at about 49oz.

For the doubles:

http://www.todopista.arrakis.es/tall...y_ti_12x2.html

If you click on the link named 'Motor numero 2' you should see a unit who gave me Mike Reedy in person at the last Reedy International, held on Snetterton (England). The rest of motors are directly bought at my LHS (like the single wind).

For the singles: (well, my single)

http://www.todopista.arrakis.es/tall...y_ti_12x1.html

Sorry to be 'Off-Topic'.
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 12-03-2001, 07:55 AM   #479
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Well, that explains it. If Reedy gave you a motor, it's probably gonna be something with ALOT more power and torque than one off the shelf. I race every Saturday night and sit with Sean Cochran. He does up my motors and I can tell you that a Sean 10 turn is WAY more powerful than a off-the-shelf 8 or 9 turn!!! So, in THAT case, yes, your x2 will have more power. But, typically, a single will have more torque than any other wind....

Have Mike build you a single and see what happens....

If he does, you might want to make sure your tires are glued on REAL good....
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Old 12-03-2001, 02:39 PM   #480
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Default Trinity shock bushings

Anyone know the Trinity part number for the shock bushings that fit the TC3? Thanks.
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