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Old 04-13-2003, 08:13 PM   #4756
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OK, but it's my fault Associated doesn't know how to rate their parts properly??... it should be R+4-2 and R+6-2...ect... agian it was my understanding that the R+2 meant 2 deg. total.... not until I actually just put my car on my set-up station and actually checked the rear toe did I know..... Sorry.... GEE... now I DO know it all...LOL
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Old 04-13-2003, 08:25 PM   #4757
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Coolrcdad--- OLD, probably one of the first releases... have him check to see if it has equal rear-toe per side becase the origional releases had rear hub problems.....
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Old 04-13-2003, 08:51 PM   #4758
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Impactplayer- I've owned a ton of cars and every single one I've had has always had the toe as 'per side'... So it's not just associated. I am a mechanical engineering student. Maybe I'll get a masters in race car dynamics so I can know a car sucks, haha

Muffin- OB42tc3 is a mechanical engineer that designs suspensions all day. So I guess he is the expert.
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Old 04-13-2003, 11:39 PM   #4759
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Wouldn't you have to make sure the car was "perfectly" upright when checking the rear toe with the RPM camber gauge? Because if you started to put the car at an angle wouldn't the amount of toe change?
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Old 04-14-2003, 03:28 AM   #4760
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when you check the toe, we're not using camber gauges you're using the Hudy or the"hudy type" setup system to check the toe in which the car is suspended in blocks like in the picture I posted.
You can roughly check your toe with an RPM camber gauge and yes you would want to make sure that the car is perfectly upright or the toe readings will be inacurate.

ImpactPlayer: there was no one closer in the discussion there was either right or wrong. RBLove was right and was proven if you looked at the pictures. All of the cars that I have ever owned measured toe per side and all the markings are per side not overall toe divided in half.
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Old 04-14-2003, 10:57 AM   #4761
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IMPACTPLAYR,

You are right. The slightly raised roll center "could" be a good thing. It also "might" not. I personally think the Warpseed kit looks great and if the new Yok is no good I will be trying the Warpspeed.
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Old 04-14-2003, 11:14 AM   #4762
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Well I based my conclusion on my previous cars---

Associated off-road cars (1 block per side labeled 3= 3 deg. per side)

HPI RS4 pro-pro2 (each side marked 2 on pin carriers 2 deg. per side)

schumacher---- ohh yeah...LOL infinate toe....LOL

even my old TC3 had infinate adjustable toe...... maybe that it wasn't as "point and shoot" because The most I have ever use is 2-4 deg. total toe on any on-road car, even my old TC3..... HMMMMMM
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Old 04-14-2003, 11:19 AM   #4763
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High, Guys. I have the Warpspeed chassis conversion on one car and a stock chassis with the slots cut closer to the centerline on another. I just got a good test of the Warpspeed chassis yesterday and I have to say that it does feel a little more stable than stock. Acceleration felt about the same. It didn't corner quite as well with the diff as the stock with a one-way. I was very competitve though with the other cars on the track. I can't say yet that it's better or worse than my other car. I still get around the track better with it, but I've been driving it for two years. This weekend I'm going to set the two cars the same and compare. Keep you posted
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Old 04-14-2003, 02:21 PM   #4764
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Default Warpspeed

Anyone can cut flat graphite/fiberglass, and use a standard chassis as a template for the battery locations. I have as yet, seen a definitive answer for the "improved" handling of this "car". Seems to me, one does things to improve a car with a goal in mind... a reason to do "this and that". And "this and that" is based on knowledge of how the overall suspension works, not to mention, particular use. Face it. You could realistically build a car for carpet... and asphalt... and the two use similar drivetrain components... but must utilize different theory to build each setup. The answers given for the "improved handling" are sparse and general. Heck... you might have just got the right tire/insert combination for the day! I guess im asking... what was your reasoning for doing the chassis the way it is? If the cars were mostly tested on medium bite asphalt tracks... then the "raised" chassis WOULD increase "stability" and "traction". Anyone knows, you raise overall ride-height, the chassis has a slower response to directional input... not to mention the change to roll center and roll moment. Its simple geometry... not rocket science. But one cannot simply swap battery location from one side to the other.. and add a "fancy" brace and claim it as a new "car". I dont know... maybe i am too much of a tweak to think it can be that simple....
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Old 04-14-2003, 02:38 PM   #4765
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They also moved the battery position further inwards towards the shaft.... which has been well documanted thru tons of cutting on the tub chassis to make a huge difference.........
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Old 04-14-2003, 10:47 PM   #4766
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Default Re: Re: Re: Warpspeed chassis thickness

For what it's worth I think the ultimate proof of the warpspeed RC increase is the track. The benefits of the warpspeed setup may outweigh the RC/ride height deal. For asphalt rubber tire this wouldn't be such a big issue as carpet I think because on foam/carpet you have so much more grip. I mean just look at all the rear toe conversation. That's important because the tires aren't slipping on the carpet so removing toe really frees the car up. The ackerman angle seems to have a big effect too; same reason-low tire slip. What else comes with this? traction rolling and dragging the chassis edges and ride height becomes very important; most carpet tracks will check minimum ride height too. So you can see how the .4 mm impacts the setup pretty directly, and small changes are more noticeable because of the grip levels....and those old RS4 roll center plates were designed for rubber tires on asphalt.
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Old 04-14-2003, 11:59 PM   #4767
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OB4TC3,

Well said! We are all foam tire carpet guys (Sigearhead and Pimpedaccord)
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Old 04-14-2003, 11:59 PM   #4768
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OB4TC3,

Well said! We are all foam tire carpet guys (Sigearhead and Pimpedaccord)
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Old 04-15-2003, 12:24 AM   #4769
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Can you make the battaries in the Warpspeed chassis sit at the same level as the Associated chassis by filing (spelling? ) the chassis if they don't already sit at that level? That would help keep the CG lower probably. I would get the Warpspeed chassis but it probably costs a lot more than the graphite Associated chassis. How much does the Warpspeed chassis cost?
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Old 04-15-2003, 12:49 AM   #4770
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Warspeed conversion kit is $190.00 street price.
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