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Old 03-29-2003, 08:12 AM   #4621
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ok guys i have a question on the losi rear hubs. i am going to be trying these on one of my tc3s. if i use the 2+2 and the f block and the losi 1/2 deg flipped backwards. will this give me 1 deg toe-in?
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Old 03-29-2003, 09:22 AM   #4622
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Quote:
Originally posted by spaz456
ok guys i have a question on the losi rear hubs. i am going to be trying these on one of my tc3s. if i use the 2+2 and the f block and the losi 1/2 deg flipped backwards. will this give me 1 deg toe-in?

I Think you need losi 1 degree hubs on backwards to acheive 1 degree toe-in, the 1/2 degree on backwards will only give you 1.5 degree toe!
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Old 03-29-2003, 10:30 AM   #4623
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It's my understanding with the Fblock and the 2+2, that'll give you 1 deg. Along with the Losi 1/2 deg installed backwards, you're down to 1/2 deg.

To get 1 deg, I'm using the R block, 2+2, Losi 1deg backwards.

There are other combos too.
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Old 03-29-2003, 11:39 AM   #4624
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The F block will take out almost 2* toe. Setup stations don't lie.

I run the 3-0 and F block in the rear with std hubs and have exactly 1* toe in per side. Make sure you space the F block up to height, unless you want to lower the roll center...
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Old 03-29-2003, 01:14 PM   #4625
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On my Hudy Setup board using stock arms, blocks and carriers

F block with the R2+2 block gives me 1 degree of toe in per side
F block with the R3+2 block gives me 1.5 degrees of toe in per side

F block with the R3-0 block gives me about 1.5 degrees of toe in per side and lower Roll Center
F block with the R2-0 block gives me 1 degree of toe in per side amd lower roll center.

I prefer to use the R2+2 and R3+2 blocks so that I don't have to screw with the spacer below the F block.

The HUDY Don't lie!!!

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Old 03-29-2003, 01:31 PM   #4626
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Ok. I am over the stripping of the front steering knuckle! I got a set of aluminum steering knuckles, and it was all good, till a hack got me a few good times... and bent the ballstud in each one that goes to the link for steering. I had over 4 degrees of toe-out after this guy got me. The problem set in as i was trying to remove the ballstud... and the sob broke off in the knuckle. Now the aluminum steering knuckle is worthless. So in a last minute scramble to fix the situation before the A main... i installed a new set of standard ASC steering knuckles... and as i was putting in the upper ballstud... it stripped out with the slightest effort. Yes, i used a new ballstud so i would have clean sharp threads. And no, i didnt tighten too hard. So i pulled it back out and added a little thread lock, and prayed for the best. Anyhoo... i have since read that alot of the guys run the losi steering knuckles and the caster blocks... i have gotten them and was wondering if you guys could give me some pointers, and does this also help with the strippage. Some have said they need a little "massaging" to get them to work right. I guess this is my last resort... next to installing threaded or pressure fit 4-40 inserts (brass) into the standard part. Or i could just stop my whining, and buy a new pair of aluminum knuckles!
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Old 03-29-2003, 01:57 PM   #4627
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i believe that the losi steering knuckles and c hubs are a direct fit. i don't remember having to massage anything
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Old 03-29-2003, 02:00 PM   #4628
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Stick with Associated C hubs... The Losi are a tad bit different..I think you have to shim them. As for the Sterring Knuckle.. They both work fine...
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Old 03-29-2003, 02:05 PM   #4629
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DaveW, I did also the losi front end conversion. I only used the knuckles and not the C-hubs. They are a direct fit and no more stripping of the top ball studs and bottom screws. With the stock knuckles, I often have to check the bottom screws because they work their way out each and after every heat. Also, it gave me more steering throw than the stock knuckles.
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Old 03-29-2003, 02:08 PM   #4630
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Need help in understanging shock position and camber link location. Will laying the shocks inward makes that end soft or stiff? Also, there are 4 position on the shock tower for camber link location. I know it alters the length and the height of the camber link. But exactly does it do in terms of handling

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Old 03-29-2003, 02:09 PM   #4631
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About the stock Knuckles. I have never had any problems with them stripping. Just don't tighten them like Hulk Hogan and you should be fine. Also I add just a little Thread lock to them. I still am using the same knuckles that I started with in November. They are the Stock Knuckles. I ran them all season and down at snowbirds. I also rip my car apart after every race wekeend to check for wear and tear.
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Old 03-29-2003, 03:51 PM   #4632
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I don't know if any of you have the RTR version but i was wondering, do you think the RTR electronics are better than the losi RTR electronics? I was checking them out but i couldn't get any pics of them, The TC3 is 210, the losi is 270, basically what im saying is, is it worth the extra 60 for the JR radio and the v3r, over the electronics in the TC3, they don't look as good especialy the radio.
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Old 03-29-2003, 03:57 PM   #4633
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The Losi xr2 radio is far better than the Associated one. The Losi also has a decent esc, but I'm not sure of the specs. I personally think the Losi electronics asre better. But I'd do some research.
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Old 03-29-2003, 04:04 PM   #4634
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i was trying to do research but didn't have much luck, thats why i came here
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Old 03-29-2003, 04:21 PM   #4635
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I use the losi knuckles and blocks (since i run 6 degrees of castor to add more steering), and love them. they never strip out, i didnt personally shim steering rack to keep the ackerman the same, however i am very pleased at the way the car handles.
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