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Old 03-26-2003, 01:15 PM   #4591
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Default Re: Tires

Quote:
Originally posted by omalley
whats good tire for parking lot racing? The lot we race on is concrete, I was running the V-rage tires, but they got ate by the concrete fairly fast.

any suggestions?
Take Off27's with firm inserts (Hpi firm or Yokomo Firm work well)and little or no air gap for concrete and watch your camber carefully to avoid the ring of death!!!!

That recommendation is for brushed concrete track only.
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Old 03-26-2003, 01:31 PM   #4592
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Any one looking to buy a FT tc3 for 190? Send me a pm or email me for pics and any more info . I thought I would go strait to the sorce of tc3s first

Thanks
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Old 03-26-2003, 01:37 PM   #4593
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Default Re: NTC3 steering rack and blueprinting

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Originally posted by mistercrash
coolrcdad

I did the NTC3 rack conversion and documented it. You can go here to see it. Just click on "NTC3 steering rack modification".

DRIVEN
I blueprinted my TC3 and posted a clip of the spinning test on my website. Click here to see it. Does all this work make the car faster? I don't know. This is still being debated. I guess it would affect runtime since it takes less power to keep the drivetrain rolling.
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Old 03-26-2003, 03:54 PM   #4594
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Wow. Mine stops spinning immediately after I let go. Well, It would help with acceleration for sure. Try running with pulling a weight, and try running with out one. Man I really need to blue print the diffs. Do you have the one shield mod?
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Old 03-26-2003, 04:03 PM   #4595
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One shield mod???.... Sorry but I don't understand what you mean. Please explain, my english is kind of rusty.
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Old 03-26-2003, 04:19 PM   #4596
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he maens taking one shield off on side.
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Old 03-26-2003, 04:30 PM   #4597
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Team AE nailed it. I want to blue print but dont have a dremel
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Old 03-26-2003, 05:09 PM   #4598
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Quote:
Originally posted by teamAE
he maens taking one shield off on side.
Ah! Yes I took out the interior shield, or is it seal... of every bearing. I didn't use a dremel to blueprint my TC3. Just an exacto with a new blade to scrape off very small amounts of material at a time. I heard some people did it with sandpaper.
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Old 03-26-2003, 10:14 PM   #4599
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Hmm thnx Ill try that. Im goign to put back my shields any way. I didn't feel the smallest difference, and the maintenence just goes up.
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Old 03-26-2003, 10:15 PM   #4600
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O ya I have rubber sealed bearings. I saw a whole set of Teflon for 30 bux on ebay, but they were generic not AE, but maybe AE just charges way to much...
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Old 03-27-2003, 12:19 AM   #4601
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Ahh guys My diffs sound horrible. It makes a terrible clicking noise, and they should be settled by now. I drove it for 7 packs. The front diff acts like the motor is still there...that type of spinning...
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Old 03-27-2003, 03:20 AM   #4602
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
Lonestar... the screw you use has to be a coarse thread... not a fine machine thread. The finer the thread the greater chances for leakage. My first set of caps i drilled i used the screws that used to hold Novak speedos (Cyclone) together... but the fine thread caused them to leak. For the frustration, it is simpler to just order the Yok caps. I went through this years ago when the MX4 came out... and had the little screws in the caps... but the caps wouldnt adapt to my then new TC3. they wouldnt screw all the way down on the shock body, and leaked at the threads. So i used a #55 drill bit (second attempt,same hole size as an Associated #1 piston) and drilled my TC3 caps. I used the Yok screws... and worked like a charm. Now the caps that Yok makes work with no issue on TC3 shocks. - Dave
Dave,

Thanks, very good info... I indeed used fine thread screws, and the thread is actually VERY fine. On a 3mm, it is muxh finer than on a comparably sized 4/40... Funny, I thought the finer the thread the less leakage, because you had more "rings" in the fluid path. Can you explain why it's the opposite?

Will replace the screws and order the yok shock caps anyway...

Thanks,

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Old 03-27-2003, 08:57 AM   #4603
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Unless the screw is a tapered thread, I would think you need to cut a little gasket for the screw for it to seal. Nylon body washer material can be used.
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Old 03-27-2003, 02:31 PM   #4604
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Default questions for Mistercrash

I'm going to try the chassis mods your site illustrates. I don't see a Dremel 9012 listed in the Dremel catalogue. Can you tell me what shape cutter it is? Also, what size is the coutersinking bit you used? Thanks.
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Old 03-27-2003, 02:43 PM   #4605
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Default Re: questions for Mistercrash

Quote:
Originally posted by coolrcdad
I don't see a Dremel 9012 listed in the Dremel catalogue.
I used the #115 high speed cutter, 1/8 inch shank, 5/16 inch diameter to remove the chassis ribs. Here is a link to see it

http://www.dremel.com/html/images/pr.../large/115.gif

I used the #9012 carbide bit to make the slots for the battery straps, take out material from the sides for the turnbuckles and to enlarge the motor compartment hole. It can be found on the Dremel website under the New Advantage Rotary Saw Bits. Here is a link to see it.

http://www.dremel.com/html/images/pr...large/9012.gif

Last edited by mistercrash; 03-27-2003 at 02:59 PM.
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