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Old 03-25-2003, 07:48 AM   #4576
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Thanks Dingus!
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:36 AM   #4577
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Default Freeup the Drivetrain

Thanks Dingus for the file... I did the what you call "blueprinting" to free up the drivetrain but didn't notice any difference. How free should it be free? Do you just spin the tires and count how many seconds before it stops spinning?
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Old 03-25-2003, 09:40 AM   #4578
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OleC: just normal metric screws... no fancy conic threads or anything. I guess I should have bought the Yok shock caps first.

For stock racing, instead of rev exp, you can also setup your radio so that at neutral there's already some throttle action... it helps with corner speed. You have to use a chassis setup with lots of turn-in with this trick, because it also make the car feel a little pushy sometimes.

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Old 03-25-2003, 09:56 AM   #4579
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Like I said, I didn't create the file. Just passin it around.

It shows the places that need a little massaging, how much exactly you'll have to figure out. Just be sure the bearings don't "stick" in any of the plastic areas.

How long your car will spin will depend on a vriety of factors such as how clean your bearings are, how tight some of the various screws are, how heavy the spinning parts of your drivetrain are, wheels etc.

It's tedious, but it is best to do one part at a time and see if there is a difference, then keep going or move on.

NTC3NUTS very detailed pics and descriptions of the ntc3 rack conversion is around pg 100-105 of this thread.
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Old 03-25-2003, 10:15 AM   #4580
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Lonestar... the screw you use has to be a coarse thread... not a fine machine thread. The finer the thread the greater chances for leakage. My first set of caps i drilled i used the screws that used to hold Novak speedos (Cyclone) together... but the fine thread caused them to leak. For the frustration, it is simpler to just order the Yok caps. I went through this years ago when the MX4 came out... and had the little screws in the caps... but the caps wouldnt adapt to my then new TC3. they wouldnt screw all the way down on the shock body, and leaked at the threads. So i used a #55 drill bit (second attempt,same hole size as an Associated #1 piston) and drilled my TC3 caps. I used the Yok screws... and worked like a charm. Now the caps that Yok makes work with no issue on TC3 shocks. Matter of fact... if you look hard, you can still see that i have the ASC caps with the Yok screws (Yok caps are knurled at the bottom if i am not mistaken)... they last a long time!
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Old 03-25-2003, 10:27 AM   #4581
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What is the part # for the Yok shock caps? Is it YS-8D?
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Old 03-25-2003, 10:35 AM   #4582
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Default NTC3 steering rack and blueprinting

coolrcdad

I did the NTC3 rack conversion and documented it. You can go here to see it. Just click on "NTC3 steering rack modification".

DRIVEN
I blueprinted my TC3 and posted a clip of the spinning test on my website. Click here to see it. Does all this work make the car faster? I don't know. This is still being debated. I guess it would affect runtime since it takes less power to keep the drivetrain rolling.
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Old 03-25-2003, 12:04 PM   #4583
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mistercrash -- awesome pages with the mods! Thanks for posting.
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Old 03-25-2003, 12:42 PM   #4584
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Mistercrash...what did you do to get your drivetrain that free? I've worked on mine for hours and can still only get it to spin for only four seconds
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Old 03-25-2003, 12:57 PM   #4585
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOTMAN
what did you do to get your drivetrain that free?

The heavier the drivetrain, the longer it is going to spin. I have the composite shaft and composite CVDs but the rubber tires are heavy so it spins longer than if I put foam tires on the car. Basically, I did what everybody must have done, releaved some material so the bearings won't be pinched, I didn't torque the screws for the diff halves too much, I took out the interior seal of every bearing, cleaned them thoroughly and put a drop of good bearing oil. When I do this test with foams, it spins somewhere between 12 and 13 seconds.

It's fun to see the wheels spin this long but I haven't noticed any speed difference on the track. Like I said, maybe this helps to get slightly longer run times but I haven't made any tests on that.

P.S.: Please don't tell me I should make another "How to" page on my site
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Old 03-25-2003, 01:23 PM   #4586
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Holy rusted metal Batman! Spinnerooooonie! I think a free drivetrain yields a higher average voltage from your battery pack for your motor in the latter half of the run. Efficient driveline and driving style can only mean lower amp draw. Just depends on if it is mod class giving you more run time... or stock class giving you a cooler and faster motor all the way to the end of the heat. Of course... this usually means we gear up to go faster! Its all about percentages and small gains... now if only i could drive!
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Old 03-25-2003, 01:33 PM   #4587
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Default Thanks for the clarification

I've been racking my brain to explain to myself why did I put so many hours on my drivetrain to free it up... If the answer is that I can gear up a tooth or two than it was worth it. Now why didn't I come up with this answer myself? Well I know the answer to that! I'm good with my hands but my head don't work.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-25-2003, 10:30 PM   #4588
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I am white trash
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Old 03-26-2003, 12:16 PM   #4589
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Default Tires

whats good tire for parking lot racing? The lot we race on is concrete, I was running the V-rage tires, but they got ate by the concrete fairly fast.

any suggestions?
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Old 03-26-2003, 12:20 PM   #4590
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take offs are relatively inexpensive and work well.
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