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Old 03-21-2003, 10:25 AM   #4546
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uneven forces on each corner of your chassis is basically the result of a tweaked chassis. you need to adjust the shock collars to equalize the weight distribution of your chassis because it is warped also known as tweaked. when you adjust the shock collars this may alter the ride hieght slightly but even out the weight distribution on all 4 corners. now your chassis will be nuetral and more consistent.
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Old 03-21-2003, 10:31 AM   #4547
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Post Tc3 diff case

I know there was talk about sanding certain areas of the TC3's diff case to free up the drivetrain. I guess I am just not typing in the right keywords in the search because I can not find that post. Any help in that direction would be appreciated. I appologize in advance if the answer is right under my nose

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Old 03-21-2003, 12:46 PM   #4548
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I would like to know too. I just recently added the updated NTC3 tranny cases to my TC3 (along with the NTC3 shock towers)... and noticed a definite difference in spacing the differential. In the cases i had before... which were the original from when i got the car in 2000... i would have to use two of the kit included shims in each case, to space the differential correctly. Now, the diffs need one shim when the diff is installed and the top of the case is off... and none when the top of the case is on. This leaves me about 1/64 of play from side to side. What areas are you guys talkin about sanding??
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Old 03-21-2003, 12:49 PM   #4549
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the main area is the walls of the diff cases where the main diff outdrive bearings sit. do this to both bottom and top half of the cases and put diff in the half and turn upside down, if the diff falls out easily you have ground away enough. basically you want a slight amount of lateral play in the diff when everything is bolted down.

the other area to look at it on the input shafts. you may need to take out 1 or 2 shims to get some free play on the shafts. make sure you dont take out enough so it extremely loosens the gear mesh.
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Old 03-21-2003, 08:50 PM   #4550
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Thanx for the reply on that! Makes sense, ill get to it right away! About removing a shim on the layshafts... i actually just place the shim on the other side of the bearing to space the pinion away from the diff gear... but there is no excess play. I didnt like the idea of the pinion gear moving back and forth on the face of the diff gear by removing a shim and allowing excess play. If you look in the instruction manual on how the layshaft assembly goes together... you can see where you can place the third shim. I hope this makes sense... LOL
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Old 03-22-2003, 04:00 AM   #4551
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good idea dave, if you dont want to remove shims you can always grind away a little of the input shaft walls (in the seats)at a time, top and bottom to relieve the bearings a little.
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Old 03-22-2003, 07:26 AM   #4552
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I had a shim placed behind the bearing also, but it eventually found its way into the plastic of the housing and actually caused some binding.

It didn't do it at first, but there still is not really a way to secure the shim to the bearing.
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Old 03-22-2003, 09:11 PM   #4553
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Hey guys I just rebuilt my tc3. Now when I spin the drivetrain, about 1/4 of teh spin makes a clicky type sound. It sounds like its comming from teh spur gear area. Thnx
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Old 03-22-2003, 09:28 PM   #4554
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Before you took apart the gear boxes, did you mark on the gears where they matched up? If you do that, you'll make sure your gears continue to wear in the same pattern that they were before you took it all apart. If you didn't, they're probably not lined up like they were and they have to re-break into a new wear pattern. That can also shorten the life of the gears when you do that. That's the most common thing I can think of that does that. I know a lot of people find out about that the hard way. I know I had the same problem but once the gears wore back in, it was fine. Other than that, the obvious dirt in the gears could be the answer.
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Old 03-23-2003, 09:31 AM   #4555
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Default TC3 with NTC3 shock towers on asphalt...

Um... WOW! I have to say, this mod definitly makes the car SMOOTH and consistent. Last night at a local race in the first qualifier... and having two practice packs on this setup... i clicked off over 3/4 of the qualifier in the same tenth of a lap! The only time i wasnt on the same tenth of a lap was lapping traffic. TQ in the first round was then relenquished in the second round due to differential problems... my TQ was bested by under a second. A really fast lap at our track is a 12.8. (19t TC) The fastest i got, and wasnt even pushing the car, was a 12.9. It felt so smooth and effortless to make consistent lap times. The track cooled dramatically by the main (1 AM... we start at 7 PM... and race under lights!)... and traction was a minimum... but the car still maintained the same lap times with the ill differentials and a few warm-up laps... but tire warmers and bench time should fix this. I will be rebuilding the differentials... and going for a serious modified test.
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Old 03-23-2003, 09:54 AM   #4556
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Quote:
Originally posted by jkerr0043
Before you took apart the gear boxes, did you mark on the gears where they matched up? If you do that, you'll make sure your gears continue to wear in the same pattern that they were before you took it all apart. If you didn't, they're probably not lined up like they were and they have to re-break into a new wear pattern. That can also shorten the life of the gears when you do that. That's the most common thing I can think of that does that. I know a lot of people find out about that the hard way. I know I had the same problem but once the gears wore back in, it was fine. Other than that, the obvious dirt in the gears could be the answer.
Ya i would of thought it was dirt, but it cant be, since i just rebuilt everything and cleaned them
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Old 03-23-2003, 04:04 PM   #4557
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Dave,


What's difference with these NTC towers compared to regular TC towers?

Did you only swap the rears or also the fronts?


CU
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Old 03-23-2003, 06:53 PM   #4558
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Dave you did a nice job with the Ntc-3 shock towers. did you do both front and back? have you tried the setup with foam tires yet. I'm intrested on those results. Also what was the lay out of the track you raced at? I'm thinking of trying your idea and i wanted to know if you track layout is similar to the one i run at.

Oh yea when it comes to freeing up you diff and input shafts. try removing the shims from the diff assembly and spinning it on that. The diff will have a little more side play but it will spin effortlessly, don't over tighten the diff cases too. They can difform from the stress of over tightened screws.
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Old 03-23-2003, 09:08 PM   #4559
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Pizza... I did both the front and rear. The pic i took had only the rear done at that time. The NTC3 shock mounting positions are the same as the TC3 front shock tower. The upper hinge pin hole on the NTC3 shock tower for the upper control arm is the same as the lower/shortest camber location hole on the TC3 shock tower. Line the two up with 3/32 reamers and you will see they match hole to hole on the two shock towers. I actually used the TC3 shock tower as a guide to hand drill the new holes for the camber locations on the NTC3 towers. I wanted them to be exact... so how better to do it than use the four holes supplied on the TC3 tower?
Tweeter... the outdoor track i run on is a banked oval, utilizing the infield for the rest of the course. The car has to deal with flat and banked parts of the course. As far as foams... no. We arent allowed to run foams or caps on the TC's. But we all know that the more a shock is layed down... the more "traction" is gained. And with the cold asphalt... it seemed a logical way to gain corner speed. I actually got the idea from corner marshalling... and watching how a local competitors car (Serpent 705) went through a corner. His car always seemed more planted... even though he and i were using the same compound tires and inserts... and he had three times the HP... since he was nitro. So i payed more attention to the NTC3 (driven by another local competitor that is equally as fast as the Serpent driver)... and how it rolled through the corners similarly to the Serpent. In comparing the two cars on the bench, i seen one obvious thing in common... the shock positioning. I know there is alot more involved than just that... but it seemed too simplistic to not try. I have said all this to answer the carpet question... and foams. Im assuming the reason so many team drivers are using the wider towers is to reduce some of the traction a car develops on carpet... and the sensitivity that comes with it. But laying the shocks down also changes damping.... and spring rate. I also ran higher than normal ride height (7mm) to try and gain more traction. ( track surface isnt all that smooth either) All of this affects not just the roll center... but the roll rate (moment) as well. Raising ride height slows chassis reaction to input... and laying the shocks down allows the car to take a "set" through the corner... this is good on medium traction tracks with wide sweeping turns. By looking at the pic, you can see that is pretty much what our track is! I guess if you have a steady hand and some Masami-style concentration... you could probably use them on carpet with much success, setup is relative to driver as well. But heck... its a 10 dollar investment... and about two hours of time to find out! Sorry if this post was a little hard to understand... im a little rushed. But will answer any more questions... and add more pics (like how i lined them up to drill the holes) if ya like a little later. Thanks for the compliments guys... just sharing what i find.
- Dave
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Old 03-23-2003, 09:11 PM   #4560
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Tweeter, thank you for the tips on the diff casings... i have been wondering if i had done something wrong with the new cases that may have locked my front diff like it did. Ill let ya know what i find. Also attached is a pic of our track.
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