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Old 03-17-2003, 06:10 AM   #4456
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Default Mr. Warpspeed

Quote:
Originally posted by Mr Warpspeed
WARPSPEED RACING Update:

What makes the WARPSPEED DEMON different is that our chassis is perfectly balanced.
Our battery slots are already bevelled out so there is no filing to do. The battery slots are
closer to the drive shaft and centered compared to the Associated chassis. This is what
makes the car so perfectly balanced. We have also switched the batteries from leftside to rightside,
for better balance. The WARPSPEED chassis comes with the holes for the NTC3 swing rack.
Our chassis also comes with an upper plate that mounts from diff to diff to make it stiffer, to
eliminate flex.
Other upper plates will be available soon at 2mm thickness and with a cut out
if you like flex.
If the car is 'perfectly balanced', why did you move the batteries to the other side if the car? It shouldn't make a difference. I guess I'm missing something. It's good to see your new car doing well.
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Old 03-17-2003, 07:10 AM   #4457
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I would have to agree with Mike... as long as there are six cells on one side of that chassis (either side)... they will never balance out with the electronics on the other side...unless you are using a 1/4 scale steering servo and maybe an E-Maxx speedo. Moving the batteries closer to the centerline does improve balance... but it doesnt make it equal left to right. Place your car on a digital four scale tweak board with the car ready to run sans the body...all of your shocks at equal length. Compare the numbers from each corner... you will be surprised at how "balanced" your car is. I do like the work you have done... especially the motor mount. Will the upper part of that mount replace (drop into the standard chassis) the stock motor clamp? I would have liked to see a chassis capable of mounting the NTC3 suspension components. (talk about durable) I really like the NTC3 shock tower shock mounting positions (they are the same as the front TC3 shock tower) and wish i could get them to mount, and still allow the same TC3 shock tower camber locations... I have hacked an NTC3 shock tower so it is mountable for shock position only... and am fashioning a graphite plate to attach to the shock tower to mount the camber rods. Kinda tedious... but the Dremel is my friend and the effort will be well worth it on the next medium bite asphalt track i am on.

My .02
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Old 03-17-2003, 07:46 AM   #4458
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Default LEX RACER--------

OK, save your dough and get the racer. The aluminum cvd bones from the team and FT cars are nice, but bend way too easily. The Ti-turnbuckles are nice, but agian I prefer Lunsford pieces.

The FT, and Team use teflon sealed bearings, and the racer uses rubber sealed, if you race on asphalt you will want to remove the inner sheild, and the rubber seals seal much better IMHO. For carpet you will most likely remove both sheilds, so the extra cash into the teflon bearings is a waste.

Get the threaded shocks, well worth the money when it comes time to tune your car (I don't own a car w/o threaded shocks)

Other optional parts you may want to pick-up (not included in any kit)

#3864 - optional suspension mounts
#3870 - 2 deg. caster blocks
#3872 - 4 deg. caster blocks


Other non-associated parts you may wanna invest in--

IRS #145 - light weight input shafts
RPM #80292 front bumper (protect like the brp piece, but looks alot better and is lighter... L@@K-- RPM bumper


The optional heatsinks serve little use, so I wouldn't worry about them. Aluminum battery straps just add weight. Amuch better way of cooling your motor is by taking a dremel w/ sanding drum and enlarging the hole below your motor...

A spool is basically a locked diff, it provides the same effects on-power as a one-way diff, however off-power you still get controlled braking action like a diff/diff set-up..... If a spool woks at your track you can just purchase a set of Losi spoolpads which allow you tolock-up your front diff.....
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Old 03-17-2003, 08:00 AM   #4459
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Roar rules states that on touring cars we must run clockwise so we switched the batteries to the rightside because it is a bios-weight.
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Old 03-17-2003, 08:07 AM   #4460
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Default Re: kit...

Quote:
Originally posted by Nexus
just to verify...everything pictured here...



is 190.00?
Everything in the picture is $190.00 US dollars + shipping.
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Old 03-17-2003, 08:37 AM   #4461
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Post Thanks Impact

Its lax not lex

I am not a fan of Rubbersealed bearings myself. So thats a down sided to the racer, and the included body and rubber is another, its just stuff that I won't ever use.

As for the threaded shocks. since my old Rig will most likely get converted to just a speed demon, it doesn't need the percs of its threaded shocks, thats why I asked about the Shock length, plus there are some shock designs out there that I just like.

For my needs I really just want dumbly the chassis, but I do want some pretty bits too.

I really like the suggestion about the motor, I will probably do that as well as the heatsinks. Not a fan of that alum battery brace though, so that would've become a show piece.

Do you know of some sites, with setups and modifications people have tried on there car ? If I wasn't at work and had a couple of days to kill I would read this whole thread


Thanks again for all the help

C
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Old 03-17-2003, 08:52 AM   #4462
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Default Re: Battry Connectors

Quote:
Originally posted by DRIVEN
Is there a preferred way of positioning the battery connectors? Either inside (close to the drive shaft) or outside (over the edge of the chassis).
Well, didn't get any reply regarding this so I just decided to make my batt connectors on the outside. Anyway, I used the Deans Pro-Bar battery connectors and after gluing and soldering the connectors together in the pack, it seems like the whole battery assembly is too wide and does not fit in the chassis. The connectors are hitting and rubbing the sides of the chassis.

Anyone got some close-up pics of their chassis with electronics on it?
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Old 03-17-2003, 09:17 AM   #4463
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Default Re: LEX RACER--------

Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR
The optional heatsinks serve little use, so I wouldn't worry about them.
True, The motor gets hotter with than without. I have 2 I will
give away. Does the new kit still come with them?
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Old 03-17-2003, 10:01 AM   #4464
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Competition X has ome good set-ups, as far as mods, this is all I know...LOL

BEWARE---- once the dremel hits the chassis for the first time all you an think of is what else can I cut...LOL I have a very heavily moded racer chassis I use for oval, and I just wanna cut on it more and more...LOL
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Old 03-17-2003, 10:02 AM   #4465
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Just finished the first milled chassis.....
I took a used chassis for the first test.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bild5.jpg (88.4 KB, 207 views)
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Old 03-17-2003, 10:06 AM   #4466
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Since Associated discontinued there Oneway and no one has the Yokomo Oneway in stock, does anybody else make a oneway for the TC3?

Thanks,
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Old 03-17-2003, 10:11 AM   #4467
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Megatech makes one in 4 and 6mm
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Old 03-17-2003, 10:17 AM   #4468
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You can order the Yokomo one from RainbowTen in Japan..
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Old 03-17-2003, 03:58 PM   #4469
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The new factory teams do come with the optional heatsink Drift.
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Old 03-17-2003, 04:07 PM   #4470
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Manfredo,

I take it you didn't use a Bridgeport to do that?Q

I like everything except the battery slots. I just milled my cassi out to allow the batts to sit closer to center line, but I figure widening the slots limits you positioning ability.

But, it does alow more airflow. I like it!
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