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Old 03-13-2003, 07:24 PM   #4396
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Racer... i had the same problem... a slight dark grey powder. I started adding a very small drop of synthetic oil (Mobile1) to the CVD coupling and i havent had the problem since. My crosspins last longer in the CVD too.
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Old 03-13-2003, 09:43 PM   #4397
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If you're using the new front arms with the outter shock mount, you don't need to shim the tower up to get the ride height down. It is a good setup though. I'm running it with and without a locked diff, depending on the track layout. With a regular diff, It has a little too much steering coming out of the corners but you can change some other things in the setup to compensate for that.
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Old 03-13-2003, 11:36 PM   #4398
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Default One way

I want to try out a one way but don't know where to start looking. This has probably been covered in the forum somewhere but there are so many pages it would take me days to find it. Anyone have any suggestions on one ways. I hope to get one by next week so I can test it out before my next race.
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Old 03-14-2003, 04:54 PM   #4399
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Default flex problem

i put the jb weld to my center brace today. i put extra on and let it cure then dremeled the brace to smooth it out. once it is fully cured i am going to seal it with some CA. it didnt come out to bad. i think this will take out alot of the flex. will post pics later tonight or tomarrow.
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Old 03-15-2003, 06:26 AM   #4400
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Default Re: One way

Quote:
Originally posted by Number 11
I want to try out a one way but don't know where to start looking. This has probably been covered in the forum somewhere but there are so many pages it would take me days to find it. Anyone have any suggestions on one ways. I hope to get one by next week so I can test it out before my next race.
Well the AE oneway has been discontinued (the one that uses 4 mm oneway bearings). I think they will be coming out with a version with 6 mm bearings like the NTC3 unit. Yokomo makes the 6mm oneways for both. A NTC3 oneway with hpi or kyosho 6 mm outdrives would work too.
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Old 03-15-2003, 10:35 AM   #4401
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Hi,

Does the Yokomo shock caps with bleeding screws fit the TC3 shocks? I tried to fit one and air bubbles could be heard while actuating the pistons. They are definitely easier to assemble and bleed though....
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Old 03-15-2003, 10:46 AM   #4402
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Kenneth, yesthey they fit and work great. Yokomo also has so new shock caps that use bladders that work well on the TC3. www.speedtechrc.com sells them
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Old 03-15-2003, 10:53 AM   #4403
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I will second that! I used to hate rebuilding my Associated shocks. I purchased a few sets of the Yokomo bleeder caps & they are awesome. They make rebuilding a snap. I am going to order a set of the new bladder caps & see how they work out.
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Old 03-15-2003, 11:12 AM   #4404
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Thanks for the quick response. How did you actually build them? I suppose you do the usual stuff:

1. Pull the piston down fully.
2. Fill the shock to the brim, and ensure that there are no more air bubbles.
3. Fill the 1/2 the cap with oil.
4. Screw on the cap while retaining as much oil as possible.
5. Unscrew the bleed screw.
6. Push the piston up SLOWLY until oil stops coming out of the hole.
7. Pull the piston down fully and replace the bleed screw.

Right? Did i miss out any step? I still feel the shock has a squeaky sound though. Thanks again.
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Old 03-15-2003, 11:21 AM   #4405
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I was with you until step six. After I unscrew the bleed screw I let the shocks sit for five to ten minutes to make sure all the air bubbles have gone to the top. Then I slowly move the piston up until oil starts coming out. I move the piston to about 3/4 quarters from the top and then put the bleed screw back in. You should be able to fully compress the shock but once you push it in, it should slowly move back out on it own. If it does that, you've done it right.
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Old 03-15-2003, 11:59 AM   #4406
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Pulling the shock shaft back down before putting the bleed screw in will suck air back in which is definitely not what you want
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Old 03-15-2003, 12:46 PM   #4407
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Default irs tc3 chassis

i have a irs tc3 chassis, and im wondering if any one can please help me how to put a ntc3 steering rack on my chassis and or to put one on my stock tubed chassis. Thanks bgarrisi
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Old 03-15-2003, 12:51 PM   #4408
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If you go back a page or two you'll see a posting that gives detailed instructions on the conversion
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Old 03-15-2003, 01:27 PM   #4409
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Hey, do I need to pretap holes for my tc3 graphite stuff? I'm going to be using steel screws, the stock ones that come with the kit. Can I use one of the screws as a tap, like on the losi kits?
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Old 03-15-2003, 02:57 PM   #4410
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Default Pics of Xtreme TC3

I am 90% done with this project. I was 91% done but someone snagged my IRS heatsink alloy blue battery brace during the race 2 Tuesdays ago held at my LHS. I can't believe the nerve of that person to actually go through my car bag. Oh well, I still need some one ways, I need to pick up a couple of PMS 3300 batteries for my racing set and a couple extra Putnam 27 turns as well. I still need to dial in the suspension as well. That tuesday was my first race with the TC3 actually first race ever in an actual road coarse. What a rush, too bad I was such a hack, well at least for the first few laps. I really got dialed in with my driving towards the end but since I lost my transponder(got knocked off after getting T-boned)I did not place.
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