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Old 03-07-2003, 06:08 AM   #4276
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Steel outdrives... part # ASC3912. It has one long and one short part in each bag. So to complete the car you would need two bags, and they run about 15 a pair.... depends on where you shop. They add significant weight not only to the car, but the driveline. Your car will not have the same snap off the corner, but the durability you are looking for. So if you are running stock and your car moves like a lead slead in comparison to before... its not your batteries or motor... its the steel outdrives. My suggestion would be to place your shims on the dogbone side of the axle, instead of under the hex drive for the rim. This will push the dogbone further into the outdrive cup. Its only a little, but every bit helps.
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Old 03-07-2003, 06:13 AM   #4277
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Enough: Im sure the side dams are for under car aerodynamics. At that speed you dont want air under the body lifting it and reducing traction. If you dont think aerodynamics play an important role in r/c... do like a buddy of mine did for experiments sake. Take the wing off of your body and mount it upsidedown. Add a 10 turn with a nickel-sized pinion, and hit the straight... lemme know if your car stays on the ground! It was actually pretty cool to watch (yes... we were bored... and had too much $ for spare parts) as that TC3 lifted off the ground and went airborne!
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Old 03-07-2003, 06:19 AM   #4278
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Default Optimum setting

I need to know the optimum pinion and spur setting for:


1. a mabuch/johnson 540,
2. 27 turn 24d stock motor
3. 48 or 64 pitch.


I just got the car and want to skip the trial and error part and just get the optimum setting straight away, i am racing in two days time and dont have the time to muck around with different gearing...
Thanx
Alan.
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Old 03-07-2003, 06:33 AM   #4279
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Sherm: Gear really depends on alot! Not just the type of motor, but the make of motor as well. Then, are you running rubber, or foam? Tire size is a big concern. Then you have track size. My suggestion is, find a local at your track while you are charging your battery, see if he is running the same class you are asking questions about... and ask him for a ballpark gear for both 48 and 64 pitch. Heck, optimum gear can change with air and track temp as well... so it is something you will always be adjusting! Sorry, there is no real "wise man on top of the mountain" answer for that! I know it would make it alot easier for you to concentrate on driving if the gear was right off the bat. I have been in the same boat, and wished i already knew the gear i needed. There is a guideline though that may help... as far as what gear to run. Alot of people put enough gear on the car so it tops out in speed about 90 to 95% of the straight. But again, that is a very vague guideline. Once you find it... make sure you use your setup sheets, and keep track of ambient temp of the air and your motor as well. It will cut your setup time in half when you travel to similar track layouts (with similar running lines) and you need an idea for a gear.
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Old 03-07-2003, 06:41 AM   #4280
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Default Thanx

Thanx mate, i will definatly ask some one at the track on sunday as i havent raced on the track before.
Thanx for the tips.
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Old 03-07-2003, 06:43 AM   #4281
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No worries bro, just wish i could be of more help! Good luck!
- Dave
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Old 03-07-2003, 06:44 AM   #4282
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Tony,
That thing is sick! Aren't there more aerodynamic bodies out there though for straight line speed? It just dosen't seem like an Accord would be your first choice.
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Old 03-07-2003, 07:07 AM   #4283
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Quote:
Originally posted by DaveW
Steel outdrives... part # ASC3912. It has one long and one short part in each bag. So to complete the car you would need two bags, and they run about 15 a pair.... depends on where you shop. They add significant weight not only to the car, but the driveline. Your car will not have the same snap off the corner, but the durability you are looking for. So if you are running stock and your car moves like a lead slead in comparison to before... its not your batteries or motor... its the steel outdrives. My suggestion would be to place your shims on the dogbone side of the axle, instead of under the hex drive for the rim. This will push the dogbone further into the outdrive cup. Its only a little, but every bit helps.
- Dave
Coooool...Thanks for taking the time to help a fellow racer out. I'm racing mod class...I usually run 8 - 12 turn doubles so I don't think the steel drives will slow me down much but they will help me with confidence on the drivers stand.
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Old 03-07-2003, 11:54 AM   #4284
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Umm? hardened steel lockers from... Associated????


GEEEEZZZ
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Old 03-07-2003, 11:55 AM   #4285
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What's an ARP?
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Old 03-07-2003, 02:34 PM   #4286
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Tony-
Who makes those hardened input cups?
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Old 03-07-2003, 02:36 PM   #4287
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Quote:
Originally posted by James Nguyen
Tony-
Who makes those hardened input cups?
drive shaft cups?
IRS and HardCore racing...
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Old 03-07-2003, 03:04 PM   #4288
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Quote:
Originally posted by James Nguyen
Tony-
Who makes those hardened input cups?
i was wondering the same thing. those dont look like the irs or hardcore ones, they look like they are hard anodized...
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Old 03-07-2003, 03:19 PM   #4289
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Default Re: Help Please

Quote:
Originally posted by Never Enough
Can anyone please give me the P/N to the steel AE outdrives. I have gone threw 3 pairs of the molded ones my FT came with. I run either a one way or locked diff 85 % of the time at our track. I know this is tough on the outdrives but 8-10 heats , races is all I can get out of the molded ones..

Any suggestion other than the steal AE drives would be greatly apreciated but please provide me with P/Ns.

Its a shame these molded drives dont last because my TC3 is sick (lightning fast ) with them.
to build the steel outdrives you will need
asc3912 long and short outdrive
asc6909 bearing for steel outdrives
asc6575 t-nut for steel outdrives
asc6579 diff drive ring

or you can get the steel outdive set
asc3918 steel diff assembly
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Old 03-07-2003, 03:23 PM   #4290
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if you are breaking the molded outdrives when using a locked diff, you may look into the irs straight axel. part number is irs159 for about $25
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