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Old 11-12-2001, 07:41 AM   #406
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If the diff is in the car, you can check it by holding one rear tire with one hand, and, with that same hand, use your thumb to hold the spur gear. With your other hand, rotate the other rear tire. There should be some resistance, but still feel VERY smooth. Doing this you SHOULD feel a difference between a loose and a tight diff. Also, once this step is done, you can lift the back of the car off the ground and and spin one rear tire. The diff should rotate for a second or two, but not more. This is a another way to make sure it's smooth.
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Old 11-12-2001, 04:45 PM   #407
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Bad > I have used 138gs as well. They ROCK outside on bumpy outside tracks.
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Old 11-12-2001, 06:06 PM   #408
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guys : thanks for your replies!!! i'm working on my kit now before i go into competition. i'll check out some more stuff that needs tweaking/adjusting. i'll post some more topics that needs ansewers. thanks again guys!!!!!
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Old 11-13-2001, 03:32 AM   #409
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Guys, for the tight plastic diffs you need to take a little plastic off the sides of the diff housing (top & bottom) where the bearings ride. A good sharp Xcto knife will work. Just slowly scrape the blade clear around the circle where the outside of the bearing seats. Do the side so it will give the teeth more backlash so if you go too much you can shim it back over a little. You should take off just enough so the diff will fall out of the housing if you turn it upside down. R.W.
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Old 11-13-2001, 07:43 PM   #410
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what does everyone use for transponder mounts? can anyone give me the specs on the lexan one? meaning the length and width of it. I lost mine and am trying to make one to get by this weekend.. travelling to a track with transponders and didn't wann drill a hole in my body..
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Old 11-13-2001, 07:50 PM   #411
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mystererc

I just use a piece of scrap lexan and fold it into a squared U shape and use an x-acto knife to cut a hole for the post on the transponder to go thru. The side opposite the hole gets servo taped to the top of the servo. This way, you can get the weight close to the center of the car and it keeps the transponder out of harm's way.

If you get a dummy transponder weight, you can get the size of the lexan mount right and also set your car up so it will behave the same way as when you are racing with a real transponder. The AE dummy transponder weight should be around $15 at your lhs.
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Old 11-13-2001, 11:06 PM   #412
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just drill a hole on the front windshield.
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Old 11-14-2001, 07:10 AM   #413
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Guys, how do you know what shock oil viscosity should I put in to my shock? I am currently using integy #140wt... previously using #40wt but found it too light... is 140 too much? how do you gauge and what would be the best weight for my tc3.. thanks ppl
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Old 11-14-2001, 07:19 AM   #414
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Post a little more info about your car, and what type of surface you run on.

140wt oil (if it's a true 140wt) is WAY to heavy....you might run that on carpet...MAYBE. Some companies post heavy weights on their labels as a marketing thing, but, in reality, are much like the regular oils...ie, 140wt might be the same as 40wt, 160wt would be the same as 60wt, etc. I know Yokomo and Mugen have similar weight systems.

I would think 140wt would be like pouring thick glue into your shocks....
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Old 11-14-2001, 09:21 AM   #415
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Integy sells a wide variety of shock oil weights from 20wt to 150wt. Assuming that their oil viscosity is rated somewhere similar to Associated's or Trinity's, I would think that 140wt is way to thick. The heaviest oil I've ever used was 80wt and that was on a Super sized nitro.
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Old 11-14-2001, 01:33 PM   #416
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I'm thinking of trying a one way diff in the front of my car.
I know it will create a lot of steering off throttle.
What effect does it have coming out of the corner though?
Does the lack of a differential increase or decrease steering?

Thanks
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Old 11-14-2001, 01:40 PM   #417
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A oneway will increase steering everywhere. On throttle, off throttle, and in and out of a corner. Just dont use any brakes.
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Old 11-14-2001, 02:19 PM   #418
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Actually I don't think you get more turn in with a oneway, but the car steers much better with applied throttle and therefore you can use more throttle from midcorner to the exit. The trick is to let off a little bit earlier before corners. And you can use some brakes if the grip is high, but not very much. That's my opinion.
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Old 11-14-2001, 02:50 PM   #419
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What does running only the center (shaft) one-way do for the car?
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Old 11-14-2001, 05:53 PM   #420
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140wt shock oil is like slime you get in the toy stores... I think its too thick too, will go back to 40wt. The rebound is just too slow and it takes much more to absorb shocks. Then again, it runs well without fishtail at nearly full throttle on smooth asphalt... now almost hard as a rock.

How fast should the shock rebound and how much strength is needed to push in the shocks?... I know its technical... just wanted to know if anyone has any details.... just how much is too much... BTW I am using shock piston #2 with standard setup and running stock motor....
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