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Old 02-18-2003, 04:07 PM   #4096
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Old 02-19-2003, 08:27 AM   #4097
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Quote:
Originally posted by NeO-pRo-3
A friend of mine has a Tc3 and he wants to know which shaft is better. So what's a better shaft to get? The AE aluminum shaft, AE carbon shaft, or the IRS aluminum shaft?
Depends on what he means by better. The carbon shaft is the lightest at only 6 grams, but tends to be less than perfectly straight and can snap in mod or even in stock if you run a spool or one way. The AE alum shaft is 10 grams and perfectly straight, but can get bent if you hit something too hard. The IRS alum shaft is the heaviest at 14 grams, but also the thickest. If you plan to crash a lot, the IRS may be the durability you are looking for. The IRS is straight, but tends to have more play in the cups than either AE shaft, so it still wobbles a bit.

I have all three shafts, and I currently use the AE alum. I don't really like the IRS alum shaft.
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Old 02-19-2003, 08:35 AM   #4098
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The spool is tough on parts for sure. In one light race day in 19t (2 heats,1 main, open asphault track) I bent my new AE Al shaft and a pair of front al cvd's which have lasted over a year to this point including carpet racing with lots of crashes.

The very tight diff might be the better way to go if you like the spool. In a crash, it seems likely to allow a little give whereas the spool just transfers the shock.

I'm back to my old carbon shaft until that breaks, then onto the IRS shaft. Thinkin about the Big Dawg cvd's for the front 'cause I really like driving with the spool.

Oh, and don't even bother with the composite cvd's and the spool. Snapped one of those without hitting anything!!
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Old 02-19-2003, 08:50 AM   #4099
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I agree, if you run a spool get aluminum cvds or the big dawgs. I broke 2 composites in one night. I switch to aluminun and raced 2 weekends, but I just noticed that one bone is a little bent and I don't remember crashing hard.
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Old 02-19-2003, 03:45 PM   #4100
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scrad
I agree, if you run a spool get aluminum cvds or the big dawgs. I broke 2 composites in one night. I switch to aluminun and raced 2 weekends, but I just noticed that one bone is a little bent and I don't remember crashing hard.
I agree ... I twisted off 4 composites in 2 race nights with only minor crashes while ruuning a one way in the front. I then switched back to a diff and have had no problems since.
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Old 02-19-2003, 03:57 PM   #4101
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I was wondering if anyone was running the GPM center one-way for the TC-3. I have it in my car and what a difference it makes. Just remember to keep the front ball diff in the car. You seem to get the best of both world with this piece. Oh another thing that helps out a lot are the GPM Alum front hubs these things have soo much steering throw that I had to turn down my steering ALT on my 3PJS.

I've been doing some testing with Yokomo based stock motors. Basically they are Reedy MVP motors. Anyway....Reedy 767 brushes with copper springs is a great starting spot for massive torque. Torque is good Just be warned when these brushes go they go. Normally you can get 4-6 runs with them. More if you have a surration cutter. Oh yea, if you have the jig to drill holes in your brushes. DO IT. Go all the way through, just becareful of the shunt. My pit partner has the one from Niftech. When you drill them, the carbon has somewhere to go other them your comm, in theory. It works for me so I'm not complaining.

Also anyone know Warp Speed Racing's Web Address. I wanted to check out their chassis and upper deck for the TC-3.

Just my 3 cents

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Old 02-19-2003, 04:03 PM   #4102
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Let all bug RPM about making
unbreakable TC3 arms and arm mounts...
they make them for other AE cars...
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Old 02-19-2003, 04:50 PM   #4103
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Default spool ?

has anyone tried the spool in the rear of the tc3 w/ the oneway ??
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Old 02-19-2003, 05:23 PM   #4104
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shiloh
Depends on what he means by better. The carbon shaft is the lightest at only 6 grams, but tends to be less than perfectly straight and can snap in mod or even in stock if you run a spool or one way. The AE alum shaft is 10 grams and perfectly straight, but can get bent if you hit something too hard. The IRS alum shaft is the heaviest at 14 grams, but also the thickest. If you plan to crash a lot, the IRS may be the durability you are looking for. The IRS is straight, but tends to have more play in the cups than either AE shaft, so it still wobbles a bit.

I have all three shafts, and I currently use the AE alum. I don't really like the IRS alum shaft.
Thanks a lot shiloh!
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Old 02-19-2003, 05:50 PM   #4105
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One of my friends tunes motors, so I got an MVP from him since he is Monster guy now. My he drilled the 767's also, but ran green and red springs. It dynoed pretty good and I think it has good torque. I'll try the copper springs and she what kinda numbers is gets tomorrow if he has time to dyno it.
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Old 02-19-2003, 08:54 PM   #4106
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RC Zombie....

I am selling my New in Package Dumas Parts. I have the front arm, Rear Arms, Front Steering knuckle and the Rear Hubs. All made from A derlin type material..I think it is called Nyltron or something like that. They are pretty much unbreakable and take away a lot of slop in the TC3.

Here is the link

TC3 Dumas Parts
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Old 02-19-2003, 09:07 PM   #4107
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Hi I'm rebuilding my diffs for the first time, and I got my tc3 used. I was wondering what the advantages/disadvantages to building the diff tight and loose are?

Thanks a lot in advance
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Old 02-19-2003, 09:20 PM   #4108
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tweeter
I was wondering if anyone was running the GPM center one-way for the TC-3. I have it in my car and what a difference it makes. Just remember to keep the front ball diff in the car. You seem to get the best of both world with this piece. Oh another thing that helps out a lot are the GPM Alum front hubs these things have soo much steering throw that I had to turn down my steering ALT on my 3PJS.
I am running a spool up front and a center oneway. I think it is working pretty good. With just the spool, you need to control your power in the middle of the corner. With the center one-way in it it allows the front wheels to spin free through the mid turn and then applys power to both wheels like the oneway out of the turn. I think with this combination, I can get more lines through the turns without any loss of power and speed
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Old 02-21-2003, 04:22 PM   #4109
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AERacer- I like my front diff a little looser than my reardiff. It helps to pull the car out of the corners. You want the rear to be smooth not really loose so that it slips. If your diff slips with plastic outdrives...game over!
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Old 02-21-2003, 04:24 PM   #4110
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oops-I meant the front tighter than the rear-sorry
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