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Old 02-15-2003, 09:15 AM   #4066
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Big Al,

I ran the sorex 28s up front with the 24s in the rear with some hpi red inserts and finally the car was hooked up. I also went thicker on the oil 70 front 60 rear and the car was the best it's ever been. So thanks for the info. I finshed 3rd every race last night with it. Now I just need to get my motor refreshed.
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Old 02-15-2003, 09:35 AM   #4067
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Quote:
Originally posted by TC racer
I can't find a way to mount my M8 reciver and my GT7 in my TC3 FT. Do you guys have any ideas?
Here's how I've got mine mounted. I thought I'd have trouble with glitching with the power cap there but it's fine.
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Old 02-15-2003, 10:03 AM   #4068
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Default diff gear design change?

I bought some replacement diff gears and noticed that the drive pinion is a bit larger than my original kit one, which is 2 years old. The new gear doesn't fit well in the original gear box. Our nitro TC3 gearbox is shaped a little differently on the inside and the drive pinion fits fine in it. Has AE updated its gearboxes and diff gears?
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Old 02-15-2003, 11:35 AM   #4069
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Glad to hear it scrad! I think my next outing I will try out the thicker oils as well. What camber did you end up using? I'll talk to you later--Al
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Old 02-15-2003, 11:38 AM   #4070
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Default TC3 Diffs

Quote:
How often would i have to rebuild the diffs in a RTR TC3? as i wouldn't be very good at it i dont think!
I got almost 3 months out of my last rebuild (4 races per week x 12 weeks = 48 races [approx.]) and my last rebuild was just to get them smoother ... they still worked fine.

As for not being very good at it ... use the manual (either from your kit, or get the .pdf from the Associated website) and reuild as per the instructions ... after the first time you probably won't even need to look at the manual.

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Old 02-16-2003, 07:04 PM   #4071
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Default bump steer

any of you out there that uses the .100 spacer for bump steer...are you still using the lock nut to secure the ball stud? on my set up 0 caster block/2 kick up....i used the .100 spacer for bump steer and the ball stud is too short to use the lock nut.

anyone come across this?
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Old 02-16-2003, 07:11 PM   #4072
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Default Diff Rebuild

Years ago I bought a diff rebuild tool from RPM and It has been one of the best investments I ever made. It really makes the repuild go smoother and after you are done, you can check the tightness also. I have spent less money and time on diff rebuild and adjustment. Get one it is really worth it.

Rick
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Old 02-16-2003, 08:44 PM   #4073
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tibolag--
I ran into the same situation,but didn't really consider it a problem. The car definitely was more stable than without the bump steer spacer. I've ran the car with tis paticular set up and didn't have any stripping problems--Al
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Old 02-16-2003, 09:33 PM   #4074
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check these out.


http://www.rdlogics.com/products.htm
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Old 02-17-2003, 12:28 AM   #4075
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Quote:
Originally posted by big al
tibolag--
I ran into the same situation,but didn't really consider it a problem. The car definitely was more stable than without the bump steer spacer. I've ran the car with tis paticular set up and didn't have any stripping problems--Al

right on big al! thanks for the response. i noticed that yer from san jose...so you must race at castle? been racing there too...hehehjust made the switch to the tc3 from a pro2.
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Old 02-17-2003, 06:45 AM   #4076
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Default 1 way diffs...

Just looking for feedback on when people are using a 1 way diff on their TC3s.

open track?
tight track?

ect.

thank.
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Old 02-17-2003, 12:44 PM   #4077
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I tend to use them on large, open, sweeping tracks....on tight technical tracks I lean towards using a front spool and on intermediate tracks I will use a standard diff....
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Old 02-17-2003, 01:02 PM   #4078
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Default Rear toe

Anyone have any opinions on reducing the rear toe angle. I'm running the stock 3 degree and was thinking of going to 2. Is there a way to go as far as 1 degree? Someone mentioned one time that if yo do, there were some other changes you had to make to get everything to align right. Any opinions?
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Old 02-17-2003, 01:30 PM   #4079
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For about 1 degree

Use the F block in the rear. Use the R+2+2 block to get about 1 degree of toe in.

or

Use the F block in the rear with .040 spacer under the F block. Then use the R+2+0.

When you do not use the spacer you have to use the 2 Antisquat becuase the F blocks are lower so the 2+2 give it 0 antisquat.

When you use the Spacer the F block in the Rear is at the stock height so use the 0 antisquat block for 0 antisquat.

This was told to me by barry baker.
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Old 02-17-2003, 03:18 PM   #4080
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less toe in

Why do you see less toe-in as an advantage?
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