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Old 11-07-2001, 04:51 PM   #391
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Airwide : basically my car has the standard setup of the factory team kit. i havn't changed anything yet. we run on a bumpy asphalt track. what do you suggest i do? thanks!!!


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Old 11-07-2001, 05:20 PM   #392
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Bad > Tires?
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Old 11-07-2001, 05:58 PM   #393
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wolfeman09 : sorex 36 with medium inserts


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Old 11-08-2001, 07:16 AM   #394
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badboy...first, check tweak. that's ALWAYS first. next, i'm assuming yer running outdoors in a parking lot (bumpy asphalt track)??? may not be the right tire, or setup. you might have to try a little softer in the rear, or just remove the rear swaybar (keep the front on). you can change to longer wheelbase, you can change the front caster blocks (more caster), or even stand the front shocks up on hole (middle).
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Old 11-08-2001, 09:33 AM   #395
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Quote:
Originally posted by TPhalen
Of course, Johnny Racer is in the green when he goes to a outdoor race with no power.... We direct solderers, on the other hand, are screwed....
Get yourself one of these... 125 watts, comes with a massive tip, easily builds battery packs, runs on butane.



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Old 11-08-2001, 02:52 PM   #396
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Then there's that option....
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Old 11-08-2001, 04:19 PM   #397
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guys, how do you align brushes on stock motors? do you use some kind of cool tools? i heard that Racers Edge makes one...but i don't know who carry Racers Edge parts in Los Angeles.....
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Old 11-08-2001, 05:50 PM   #398
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TPhalen: thanks dude!!! i'll check out my kit right away. thanks for the inputs. by the way what tire would you recommend for an outdoor asphalt "bumpy" track?


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Old 11-08-2001, 08:38 PM   #399
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i think racer's edge is HRP distribution. Your hobby shop should be able to get them there.
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Old 11-09-2001, 07:39 AM   #400
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Well, bumpy isn't really a concern as far as tire selection, but for outdoor asphalt, we've had good luck with Sorex 36R, HPI 33R, or even ProLine H13. We've even had pretty good luck at some parking lot tracks with Yokomo Sprints (Firm). I would suggest maybe a slightly softer insert that what you might run at a prepared track...most parking lots don't have too much traction early in the day.

Over Gear: You'll be surprised how MUCH of a difference properly aligning your brush hoods will make....
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Old 11-09-2001, 08:01 AM   #401
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Most brush hood alignment tools align the brushes 180deg from each other. This is probably not where you want them due to the fact that the brush is slightly smaller than the hood. So when the motor runs, the brush moves a little and is now out of alignment. What you want to do is put new brushes in and run the motor for about 15 seconds, then check and see where the wear mark is. It needs to run down the very center of the brush. The closer you get this to the middle of the brush, the better. A bar type alignment tool is the best for adhusting the hood. Dont use a bar that has the rod that goes through the tool and through the bearings. This will align the brushes 180deg but wont account for the motor running. If I wrote this unclear, try this link.

http://teamrcv.com/postnuke/modules....ticle&artid=40
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Old 11-10-2001, 07:59 AM   #402
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Hi:

also on the site jack has put up a link to is Big Jim Greenemeyer's Black Book of motors. this is a great help for all who has questions about the 05 motors we race/play with.

for the younger people ther Jim Greenemeyer is a motor builder for way back. the designed and built the Team Checkpoint motor. this motor was years ahead of it's time. I still have a 18 single that'll tear up most of the newer winds out there. he also has a motor rebuilding service and will wind most any wind for you.

Thanks


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Old 11-10-2001, 04:50 PM   #403
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DIFFERENTIALS

guys,

how will i know if my differentials are tight or loose??? any hint on how to check this out??? also, what is the right differential setting for TC3 on bumpy unprepared tracks?

thanks!!!

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Old 11-10-2001, 05:31 PM   #404
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If you have the plastic diffs, tighten until the screw feels like its bottoming. Then back out half a turn. Take 2 flat screw drivers and insert them in the outdrive slots. If you can move the gear with the screwdrivers in there its too loose. With the car assembled if you hold down the front or rear wheels(which ever side the diff is on) and try to turn the spur, the spur should not move. Basically you want the differential action as free as possible without the gear slipping.
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Old 11-10-2001, 10:57 PM   #405
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robk : thanks!!! what do you mean by "bottoming" once i tried to tighten the diffs, afterwards it din't move it sort of got stucked. does this mean that it was too tight?


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