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Old 12-31-2002, 06:44 PM   #3601
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well if your running the stock plastic out drives you dont even need the shims so the plastic out drives with out the shim still binds slightly. so thats why the guys are grinding away.
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Old 12-31-2002, 06:45 PM   #3602
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where can i find more detail on the Warpspeed chassis?
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Old 12-31-2002, 07:18 PM   #3603
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Default Re: TC3 upper deck?

Quote:
Originally posted by TeamPRP
Hey guys, I've had a few requests for a TC3 graphite upper deck to run from the front gear box to the end of the center shaft near the spur. I've done some initial measuring and concept work but would like to know if there would be enough interest for this part from the racers? Let me know what you think, teamprp@attbi.com


Thanks!
Ben
Ben,
yep that would be nice!! but make it a bit thicker than the pro3 upper deck. Keep us updated! Will make an advance order!
Lem
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Old 12-31-2002, 07:50 PM   #3604
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Taking the shims out adjusts the gear mesh. Shaving the bearing holder relieves the tension of the gear case against the bearing. Without milling away some of the material, the bearing is actually getting pressed by the gear case. It makes a huge difference after you mill away material from enough places.
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Old 12-31-2002, 07:58 PM   #3605
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Do you shave away where the case touches the top of the bearing or the sides where it actually spins? If you take out both of the thin bearing spacers from both side the mesh is the same, just the sides of the bearings aren't being squeezed.
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Old 12-31-2002, 08:11 PM   #3606
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Is the radio and reciever any good on a rtr TC3 and is anyone selleing a reedy MVP motor
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Old 12-31-2002, 08:41 PM   #3607
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You shave where the outer part of the bearing sits all around a little at a time. The shims actually do adjust the gear mesh, think about it...
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Old 12-31-2002, 09:19 PM   #3608
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I think it only changes the gear mesh when you take away the diff spacers from one side only because if you take away equally it still sits in the same place and doesn't move the diff more to one side or the other.
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Old 12-31-2002, 09:37 PM   #3609
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I was actually referring to the shims behind the idler gear on the input shaft.

The large shims do the same thing. With all removed, the spacing will be looser (play) and will move as far from the idler gear as it can. Basically, it will self adjust because of the conical shape of the gears.
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Old 01-01-2003, 12:29 AM   #3610
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Unhappy Ill handling TC3

the problem I am having is the car has great turn in (equal left and right) but at the apex or just before I am losing the backend and it is literally snapping around and squaring off the corner (almost like an off road buggy or truck takes a 180 in very loose dirt). The car just kinda pivots around the front diff case. heres how its set up ....

Front

2* kick up
4* castor blocks
0* toe
-1* camber
Losi steering knuckles
4 mm ride height
step 6 on Assc droop gauge
yellow springs
60 wt oil #2 piston
middle hole on rear tower mounted up front
std ackerman, no bump steer washers
camber link in and down

Rear

0* anti squat
2* toe in
-1* camber
short wheelbase
4mm ride height
step 6 on assc droop gauge
copper springs
50 wt oil #2 piston
middle hole on tower
in and down to upper for the camber link

batteries ... tried forward and backward back seemed a little better
carbon fiber chassis kit
Jaco plaids in FRT and Purples in rear turned to about 2.27in (paragon used every run inner 1/2 on front and whole rear)
Trinity Monster Stock geared 36/96

track is on newer Ozite (rubber backed) 60x36 or 40 usually one long straight with a sweeper on and off, then tight and technical the rest of the way around.

any help would be appreciated ... the rear shock mount on the front idea came from a post I saw from Walt Henderson who said it was a good idea for high grip Ozite. This is my first season running on the carpet and I am a little lost. Much Thanks in advance.

Also I forgot to mention that i have checked for cracked or stressed arms , mounts, hubs, bent hinge pins, equal shock lengths, shock leaks, air in the shocks, worn bearings, binds, rough spots in the drive line and have come up with nothing. Again much Thanks in advance.

Last edited by roddude65; 01-01-2003 at 12:33 AM.
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Old 01-01-2003, 01:03 AM   #3611
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Default Spin-out

All I can think of is that something on your chassis is bottoming out under all that load.. try raising your ride height to 5mm and see what happens. Everything else on your setup sounds pretty good. A guy at the track I work/race at had the same problem.

-Brett
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Old 01-01-2003, 01:43 AM   #3612
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It could be your front diff. Are using a one way, ball diff or locked diff. It sounds like you may be loosing it early in the corner. In that case I would run a locked diff, as you will get slightly less steering going in, but you will get more going out. Defianitly dont run a one way.

How much drag brake are you running? If a lot just dial it down somewhat. Also try dialling down the steering if you want. Try harder front tyres or softer on the back, or maybe even less additive on the front.



Hope this helps

Last edited by ixlr8nz; 01-01-2003 at 01:50 AM.
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Old 01-01-2003, 01:48 AM   #3613
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Maybe try a regular front tower. I have only used the rear tower up front when using a spool. I have seen it used with a one way, but that was on asphault.

That seems like a lot of droop in the rear. I never go more than 1mm away front to rear, but I also let mine hang a bit more than that.

Seems like your problem is not setup though.

Are you using swaybars?
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Old 01-01-2003, 02:28 AM   #3614
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Try using the front tower in the front when you use foam. The rear tower on the front works great for rubbers but not good for foam. It's just a thought but give it a try. Also use the STD camber link position front and rear. That should get you out of trouble. I can't believe it would be more than that, it sounds like it is just getting too much turn in and the rear is catching up to the front and when you hit the apex that's the slowest spot and that's where it should spin out if that's the problem.

Coxy.
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Old 01-01-2003, 02:51 AM   #3615
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Need some professional advises who have done some serious testing: Which is better? The original steel diff unit or the lightweight diff unit??

I personally feel that the lightweight diff unit has a little more drag.
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