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Old 12-20-2002, 06:19 PM   #3451
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james, i went in .25" on the center brace and for the set up im running right now i have the battery all the way back so my drive cup and bearing cap mount where interfering so i just dremeled a little out of the bearing cap mount at a time and rechecked until i got it just right. the my drive cup was hitting, and i had already dremeled down the stock drive cups but i needed to go to an even smaller diameter. so you will need to dremel the drive cup down to a really small diameter if you went in as far as i did. i hope it holds. everything is clear of binding now though.
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:41 PM   #3452
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Default ready to run rc

For those that received their parts

From the pics, they seem to be beefier. Are they heavier then the AE graphite parts?
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:47 PM   #3453
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Quote:
How much are you guys lowering the batts?
James, I decided on 0.0250" down. That leaves plenty of meat left on chassis, but takes off a LOT of material. We weighed the prototype that is not finished yet and it is much lighter than a stock chassis already!!! When all the slots, holes, and center brace are all cut-out-I think it'll be enough weight saved that you can run GP3300 cells and pay zero weight or tweak penalty!!! Like a 50oz. car!!
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Old 12-20-2002, 06:55 PM   #3454
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My car as shown in the photo's posted earlier on this thread weighed in @ 47.75oz RTR with the Sanyo 3300's. The only material I removed from the chassis was 1/2 of the center brace, material under the motor, and the webbing for the NTC3 steering rack. I don't think you need to remove much more than that to be light, look elsewhere or you may sacrifice rigidity. I also would continue running a battery strap vs. taping. The battery strap itself acts as a chassis brace.
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Old 12-20-2002, 07:27 PM   #3455
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Thanks guys. I am gonna put the chassis back in the cnc machine and take the batts down to what you guys said.

Thanks
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Old 12-20-2002, 07:50 PM   #3456
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Default Bearings.

Anyone know what I can do to get freer bearings on the FT Tc3? I heard some guys saying you can take of 1 side of the bearings seal off. Is that correct? Is this for all the bearings or just certain ones you can get away with? I hear them rubbing angainst the seal when I bring the bearing to my ear.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks,
Martin.
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Old 12-21-2002, 02:48 AM   #3457
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Remove one, or both seals. Spray the bearings out with motor spray, get all the grease out. Add a drop of high quality oil. Then replace one of the seals, and put back in the car with the seal on the outside (the exposed side). This will allow your car to roll freely when off power. A good test is to back your motor pinion off of the spur gear, then spin the spur gear with your finger. All 4 wheels (the entire drivetrain) should be able to spin freely for at least several revolutions.
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Old 12-21-2002, 02:52 AM   #3458
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NTC3NUT-It's good to know I'm not the only person who can't sleep, LOL...
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Old 12-21-2002, 03:05 AM   #3459
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I work midnights, and when I have a day off I sleep weird hours. At least this gives me something to do besides watching bad B movies on TV.
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Old 12-21-2002, 04:26 AM   #3460
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Got it...
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Old 12-21-2002, 06:10 AM   #3461
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Default Re: ready to run rc

Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
For those that received their parts

From the pics, they seem to be beefier. Are they heavier then the AE graphite parts?
rayhuang / mike webb can you answer this question, I'm curious as well.

Proudwinner your back to Asscoiated?
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Old 12-21-2002, 07:46 AM   #3462
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Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Remove one, or both seals. Spray the bearings out with motor spray, get all the grease out. Add a drop of high quality oil. Then replace one of the seals, and put back in the car with the seal on the outside (the exposed side). This will allow your car to roll freely when off power. A good test is to back your motor pinion off of the spur gear, then spin the spur gear with your finger. All 4 wheels (the entire drivetrain) should be able to spin freely for at least several revolutions.
some will count the # of seconds their tc3 will freespin when all the tips and tricks for drivetrain are used. If you can get 3-4 seconds freespin you're doing pretty good.
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Old 12-21-2002, 09:51 AM   #3463
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Smile FREE DRIVETRAIN

Hello guys!!! Ive been useing a TC3 for the last few months and just wondered if you can give me any tips on freeing up the drive train....
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Old 12-21-2002, 11:06 AM   #3464
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What kind of oil are you guys using on the bearings? Is the bearing oil used on mod motors ok?

Martin.
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Old 12-21-2002, 11:16 AM   #3465
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Their is no need to removed any seals to obtain proper free spin on a tc3. The key to the whole process is basically using your brain. The basic theory is sloppy things move freely. Where I have seen the biggest problem with tc3's is with the wheel hex's. when the hex's have been filled properly their should be a .002-.005 endplay in the wheel. ( simply when the wheel is tight you should be able to pull the axle in and out of the bearing a very slight amount) Another place I see allot of problems is in the diffs. When the gearbox is assembled you should be able to move the outdrives back and fourth a slight amount and the key to that is making sure that at any point in the travel their is not any binding with the pinion gear. You MUST use a drying type of teflon or graphite spray on the gears. Even though a tc3 will free wheel very well you have to remember that the type of gears used cause a sliding friction and if you count it all up you have at any given moment 8 seperate friction points with a tc3. A dry type of lube will help your on power friction allot. Now for the bearings. I use shielded bearings only. This is not a offroad buggy so sealed is not really needed. the shielded bearing offer the least amount of friction. I take the brand new bearings and put them in a Integy parts cleaner with motor spray and let them vibrate for a couple of hours, then I blow them out with compressed air to remove all the cleaner. Then I simply lube them with a good quality lube. I remove all the bearings from my car about 1 time a month and have not had any failures in a very long time. If you ask around my tc3 is about the freest that I have ever seen. It literly spins for 10-15 seconds and actully backspins after it stops depending on the balance of the tires. In stock class racing this is free speed and it really makes a difference. Any questions feel free to ask or email me

Later
Jesse
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