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Old 12-06-2002, 02:19 PM   #3226
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buy the Corlite Niftech Woven Graphite sheet for $45 and make 10 braces, 5 battery straps. and 3 Front Body mount post.

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Old 12-06-2002, 02:38 PM   #3227
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Where can I get the woven graphite material website?

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Old 12-06-2002, 02:39 PM   #3228
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http://www.niftech.com/catalog/index...ode=1000series

down towards the bottom
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Old 12-06-2002, 07:02 PM   #3229
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OK, I have read through this entire thread and the one on RadioControlZone about what I should do while building my new FT TC3. So far, this is what I should do to make the most of it, correct?

1. Remove one seal on all drivetrain bearings and degrease them.
2. Trim part of the motor cam so it doesn't hit the chassis.
3. Remove some material where the diff bearings sit to reduce friction.
4. No shims on the plastic diff, and only 2 shims on the shaft.
5. Check for counter-sinking on the bottom of the car.
6. Sand diff rings. (I found this on the IRS website)
7. Polish my ballstuds and hingepins.
8. Pre-tap plastic and graphite parts, and put grease on aluminum screws.
9. Buy BRP bumpers, RPM ballcups, and a machined spur gear.
10. Put marks on the shock collars to see how many times you've turned it.

Does anyone object to this list, or is it generally right?
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Old 12-06-2002, 07:59 PM   #3230
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Mr. Warpseed,

Could you e-mail a pic of the chassis you are designing? Or can you provide us with some details on what you are doing?

fleetwoodracing@yahoo.com
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Old 12-06-2002, 09:01 PM   #3231
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Lab buy the new RPM front bumper, its better then the Buds. I would also stick with the stock ball cups, The RPM ones will rub on certain rims.
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Old 12-07-2002, 07:15 AM   #3232
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the stock ballcups only last a few runs for me. then one minor hit is enough to pop it off.
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Old 12-07-2002, 04:31 PM   #3233
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I get months out of my stock ball cups. I've used RPM in the past (10 years ago) and it seemed like some were nice and free and some would bind up. Have they fixed them since?
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Old 12-07-2002, 06:07 PM   #3234
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I have not had any problems with the RPM ballcups yet. They last forever and I havent broken one either.
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Old 12-07-2002, 06:20 PM   #3235
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OK, thanks everybody!
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Old 12-07-2002, 06:27 PM   #3236
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roblove,

let me know if you want to move you evo2
thanks
randy
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Old 12-08-2002, 05:39 PM   #3237
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Hi,

I melted 2 plastic diffs yesterday... The diffs were built according to the instructions - gradually tightened and turned until I felt the spring compressed and then I release 1/2 turn. Ran the car and re-tightened if necessary. Any ideas on what did I do wrong?

Thanks.
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Old 12-09-2002, 12:54 AM   #3238
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Kenneth Tan.

PLASTIC DIFFS.

We have run ours for quite a while. So long as you don't let them slip too much they are all right. However if you hear them slipping on acceleration out of corners and carry on racing you knacker them.

I usually set diffs so that if you hold both diff halves and try and rotate the crownwheel it will only slip under lots of pressure. They remain smooth but don't slip. Try it.

My son runs plastic diffs in his car with pretty hot mod motors. He had a problem once last season when the diffs were set a bit too loose. But other than that there have been no more problems. I have heard that some people actually glue the diff rings to the diff outputs just as a safety measure. good idea actually. The main thing is to keep them well maintained. I rebuild Josh's diffs every third meeting - just wash out and regrease.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 12-09-2002, 01:10 AM   #3239
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Thanks John Bull, I would try them out when I get the new parts again... So the 1/2 turn out method doesn't really work all the time right? I saw in the catalog that the plastic diffs are being sold by the entire assemblies at USD20. Does the assembly include EVERYTHING required to build a diff? Carbide balls, rings outdrives and other innards? Same like the steel diff assembly?
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Old 12-09-2002, 03:13 AM   #3240
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Default Ballcups

Stock ballcups are POS's... No doubt about that.

From my experience, Schum ballcups are bulletproof...

Paul
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