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Old 08-20-2001, 03:33 PM   #16
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Yea, but the car is competitive, atleast the 3 I had were
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Old 08-21-2001, 07:15 AM   #17
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Yes, the TC3 is a great car. I made the transition from oval to road coarse and found it very easy to turn right!! I also started racing offroad, and Ive gotten very good and am now considering going to the nations to "play"
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Old 08-21-2001, 11:15 AM   #18
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I have a TC3. And race it in Malta. I never had any huge problems with it and I find it very reliable. I think it is the best starter and pro kit around. It is also good value for money. It also does not require any hop-ups, apart from a one-way diff.
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Old 08-21-2001, 11:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lowrider
I think for the price the RTR TC3 is a sweet car it comes bearings and a good esc! I think it is one of the best rtr cars that u can almost take to the track only thing u need is a good motor!
Lowrider - You *should* get a new ESC too. Like i said earlier, sell the LRP runner to someone with a Traxxas Rustler/ E-pede. I would at least get something like a Novak Explorer, or another "sport" ESC without reverse.
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Old 08-21-2001, 02:12 PM   #20
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What Tires?

What tires seem to work well on medium-to-high bite asphault (a little bumpy) outdoors? I was considering either the Pro-Line H13's, or the Sorex 36R. Track temp gets pretty high here in S. Fla. I'm also going to try Mark Pavidis' winning setup from The Reedy TC Race. Thanks!
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Old 08-21-2001, 02:18 PM   #21
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What about inserts?

Almost forgot about inserts... I 've been using Jaco Blue. How do you tell if you need to use a harder or softer insert as opposed to changing the tire?
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Old 08-21-2001, 05:54 PM   #22
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First of all hi everybody (everyone says he Dr. Nick)

I just got my tc3 a couple of days ago and I am so anctious to run it i tossed a servo and reciever in (no motor or esc) along with a reciever pack and started pushing it around in my living room. I do have two complaints, they did not do the greatest job on molding. I had to exacto one of the gearboxes to get everything to run smoothly (bearing was getting binded by case). My second complaint is that the shocks are the work of the devil and companies that sell shock oil . I used half a bottle of shock oil and 3 of them still have a little air. I would like to know who designed the shocks and give them a good hearty handshake around their throat.

Besides those 2 complaints the car is great. Cant wiat to get my novak atom and p2k in this thing.
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Old 08-21-2001, 06:11 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by TC3Racer
I used half a bottle of shock oil and 3 of them still have a little air. I would like to know who designed the shocks and give them a good hearty handshake around their throat.

Try this for perfect TC3 shocks... First, soak the little foam compensators in shock oil before you install them. Don't just immerse them, hold them in the oil and squeeze em a few times each. Before you assemble the parts, go over each and every one of those plastic parts with an Xacto knife and make SURE there is NO mold flashing left over. It's better to remove a bit of the part than to leave ANY flash.

Once the shocks are assembled, fill the bodies with oil to the top. Work the pistons up and down a few times slowly to untrap any air underneath them. Add a bit more oil to each shock to get them to the top again. I like the oil to make a little "dome" sticking up past the top of the body.

Now put the shocks in a rack and go away for a while to let any remaining tiny air bubbles to slowly work their way up. After they've sat for a while, grab a shock, fill a cap with oil, and quickly screw the cap on to the body. Be careful to not cross thread the cap. Tighten the cap all the way hand tight and see if you can push the shaft all the way in. If you can, you didn't get enough oil in there. Remove the cap, add more oil to the body, refill the cap, and try again. If it won't go all the way, You're in good shape.

Loosen the cap one turn, push the shaft all the way in, count to three, then tighten the cap and let go of the shaft. Now check to see if you can push the shaft all the way in. You should be able to, and it should come back out most or all of the way on its own. Repeat for the other three shocks.

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Old 08-21-2001, 06:11 PM   #24
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I have a FTTC3 and it currently is set-up using Mark Pavidis' numbers. I am about to get a TC3 upgraded with a Megatech chassis and IRS components. One of the local racers is leaving the hobby temporarily so I opted to buy his successively winning kit.
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Old 08-21-2001, 06:12 PM   #25
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Who was it? I hope it's not Wes B. that's quitting...

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Old 08-21-2001, 06:24 PM   #26
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Yes it is Wes, he is taking a leave of absence from the hobby and he will be back. He can even have his car back for less than what I am buying it for, if he so chooses to run the TC3 again. I may not ever touch his kit since it is only needed as a back-up to my TC3.
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Old 08-21-2001, 07:53 PM   #27
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Well, I hope he gets back into it sooner than later... he's always fun to be around at the track.

Please say hi to him for me next time you see him.

Thanks,

David
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Old 08-22-2001, 09:51 AM   #28
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Trips, where in NY is Bayside?????
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Old 08-22-2001, 05:07 PM   #29
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I am sure he will have viewed this board before I see him next. I will visit with him on Friday to make the exchange and to dyno two motors I tuned.
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Old 08-22-2001, 07:59 PM   #30
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Did you guys ream the hinge pin holes in the arms before you assembled the car. Mine bind slightly, and I noticed that once I snapped the ball cups on the studs the suspension binds a little more. Any ideas? If you did use a reamer to ream the arms what size did you use? Offroad uses 1/8" but that is WAY too big for these pins.
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