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Old 11-14-2002, 07:57 PM   #2956
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Default Stock Motor

If you run a lot of stock I reccomend a Gm3. It has almost the same power as the p2k and way more RPM. Look around for the highest rpm motor you can find and gear it correctly and you will kick but...
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Old 11-14-2002, 08:20 PM   #2957
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do you even have a clip on heat sink. wow. 30 teeth. that seems big. but if you have not had any problems with it i guess it wouldnt hurt to try on a big track. i think ill bump my pinion up to 28t and ill also get a 27t and hell, y not get a 30t while im at it . trinitys new monster stock motor probaly has more rpm than the gm3. im not sure what the name is. i havent seen enough ads to get it lodged in my head. or mabey i knew and when i got my concussion i frogot . haha.

Last edited by racerdx6; 11-14-2002 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 11-14-2002, 08:20 PM   #2958
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Default locked diff

So what do people think is this the way to go with carpet on foams?

and what about the rear shock tower on front..seems like can't get enough steering with it?

Any thoughts
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Old 11-14-2002, 10:29 PM   #2959
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Ok. Let's go over this again. Uneven rear toe.

First off, the R rear block and the R3+2 (or whichever you are using) are made of a material that is very inexpensive to make. The downside, it's not as strong as the carbon arms, chassis, towers, etc. It maybe SHOULD have been, but it's not. SO....

It is a PROVEN fact that MOST right handed people have been putting the rear (R3+2) block on WRONG! Doing so WRONG will cause more toe on one side than the other. For instance. A right-handed person will set the car on it's left side, slide the R3+2 block on the left hinge pin, and FLEX it over to fit the right hinge pin. That is WRONG! Reason? You are FLEXING the inexpensive material in such a way that you elongate the holes in the inexpensive material. Elongating those holes causes one side to have more toe than the other. It is a PROVEN fact!

The fix??? Simple. Set the car FLAT on a flat surface (all 4 wheels touching the flat surface). Slide the R3+2 block UP to the hinge pins, but, and this will be in capital letters, MAKE SURE BOTH HINGE PINS SLIDE IN AT THE SAME TIME!!!! Do not flex one side over, do not force the block on, do not pass Go and do not collect $200 (little Monopoly joke! ) Now, if you slide it on correctly, you will have the same toe on BOTH sides of the car.

Now, as a disclaimer, MOST people that do this DO have a successful toe-angle. Not everyone will, though, so don't take this as the bible. It is merely the CORRECT way to fit this R block.

Lonestar. Try this. BUT, make sure you also put on a new R3+2 (or whatever) and a NEW R block, as the holes might already be elongated and just replacing the R3+2 block may not work.

Other things to check about a tweaked chassis. Your battery brace MUST BE SOMEWHAT LOOSE over the battery (a little movement up and down by the battery is correct....do not pin the battery into the car). The motor clamp must not be TOTALLY cinched down. Reasons???? Heat. All plastic and carbon chassis' are made with some sort of plastic. If either the battery or the motor are TOTALLY cinched down, when the battery/motor heats up, you will heat up the chassis. If the battery (this is the biggest culprit) is cinched down all the way, it will cause the heated chassis to bow and, when it cools (after you pull it out of the car or let it set for awhile), it will conform to the 'pinned' battery. The tight strap will force the battery down, warping the chassis. I've seen it happen 1000 times. I NEVER, EVER have had a problem with a warped chassis because of either of these problems....and it's not because I'm a factory driver or work at the factory...it's because I KNOW how to do it.

And I'm sharing becasue EVERYONE should KNOW how to do it. It will make your experience with this car a good one.

Lonestar: If you keep have these problems, PM me. We'll get it figured out.... Sound good?
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Old 11-15-2002, 01:10 AM   #2960
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Tony is correct thats what happened on my car.I replaced the mounts with Trinity one and that fixed it.Maybe Associated should make that piece in metal? just a thought...
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Old 11-15-2002, 07:18 AM   #2961
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Default Worn parts

Those pieces are made of plastic and should be replaced often if you crash a lot. Those pin holes on the r+3+2 wear out and become very sloppy. Try to be proactive with the parts that wear out and you will be fine.....
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Old 11-15-2002, 07:29 AM   #2962
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Quote:
Originally posted by Craig
Tony is correct thats what happened on my car.I replaced the mounts with Trinity one and that fixed it.Maybe Associated should make that piece in metal? just a thought...
hey Craig

what's the part number on that Trinity piece? And is that 3+2+0?
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Old 11-15-2002, 07:36 AM   #2963
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Default question

has anyone used the

Aluminum Suspension Holder (hinge pin holder)
Made By SQUARE??

They make it for the front 1.5degrees and rear 2.5degrees.

Plan to get one to prevent looseness, breakage and changes in the handling if you clip a corner?

Wha t do you think?

I think AE should make suspension holders like the one LOSI did for it XXX-s (i think its the matt francis line, and speed tech RC also have their own)

TPhalen: I think AE should look into building this stuff, or at least make a study.

SPEEDTECHRC: do you think there is a possibility of producing this? like the ones you did for the XXX-s??






Last edited by lem2; 11-15-2002 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 11-15-2002, 07:52 AM   #2964
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All, especially Tony,

thanks for all the help and comments.

Yesterday night I replaced the AE blocks with Losi's 0 degree blocks. Although close to perfect, it still is a little off. I will replace the R+X+Y block by a new one and assemble it carefully on the chassis in order to get it 100% symmetrical.

After more fiddling with the 4-scale board, I finally got it right. 370g-370g rear and 355g-350g front. In order to get to this stage, I put the car on a working stand (wheels in the air, suspension fully extended) ,unscrewed all shock collars, screwed them back, each of them separately until they touch their respective springs. At this step, the scales show 400-340 rear and 375-330 front (FL-RR heavy diagonal). Using the traditional "trial&error" method, I ended up with one extra turn on the RR and a half extra turn on th FL spring. Miracle, I now am at the magically symmetrycal balance described above. However...

...the car still pulls to the right when accelerating and to the left when braking. My side-by-side (not split) batteries are nicely loose in their slot, and I'm pretty sure I'm tightening the motor clamp just as required since I went to the scales after every motor change (which happened a couple of times in the evening) and they showed ok balance. The asymmetry was getting more and more obvious through the evening after I switched to a 10x3 motor. At this stage, torque is so strong (remember I ran rubbers, and no sauce) than the car requires full concentration not to accelerate and brake sideways (especially the braking part). I also used the hudy setup tool a couple of times in the evening just to be sure, but everything was still ok from that standpoint.

I'll work again on these problems next Tuesday and let you know. In the meantime, I welcome any sensible advice... I just hope in the menatime that the track layout next saturday will be mostly left turns. At least, the car turns very nicely in that direction!

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 11-15-2002, 08:35 AM   #2965
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The part number is:
TK5034 Rear Suspension Arm Mounts (2 pcs) Same toe-in as stock plastic mounts. Strengthens rear suspension. Blue anodized aluminum. $32.99

I believe its around 26 bucks at the hobby store.

Lonestar-what type of surface do you run on? Its sounds as of you have the car balanced weight wise,but maybe it still has a tweak to it.Check and make sure that the diff housings are sitting flat.Also what are the measurements on you shocks? Are they the same on all four corners?

Last edited by Craig; 11-15-2002 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 11-15-2002, 09:29 AM   #2966
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I've thought the same thing for quite a while. . .

Maybe aluminum with delrin bushings for the pins. . .oooh
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Old 11-15-2002, 09:57 AM   #2967
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The Trinity mount has "plastic ball inserts" for the lack of a better word with it.But they do last along time.
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Old 11-15-2002, 10:07 AM   #2968
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

I have always fitted the Fastrax alluminium suspension arm mounts. They too have delrin balls, and work very well.

Apart from that they are lots stronger. We have them both front and rear.

I certainly recommend them.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 11-15-2002, 10:27 AM   #2969
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LONESTAR: There is something very goofy with your numbers. If you check your numbers before you made your adjustments, you have 775 for left side weight and 670 for right side weight. After your adjustments, you have 725 left and 720 right. The left/ right totals only change if you move weight in the car or add or subtract weight from the car. Spring preload will not change them. Your final numbers are surprisingly balanced, only 5 grams heavy left. Stock TC3 can be off by well over 50 grams on the left.
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Old 11-15-2002, 12:19 PM   #2970
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You can adjust it using spring tension.Do it all the time.
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