Ok. Let's go over this again. Uneven rear toe.
First off, the R rear block and the R3+2 (or whichever you are using) are made of a material that is very inexpensive to make. The downside, it's not as strong as the carbon arms, chassis, towers, etc. It maybe SHOULD have been, but it's not. SO....
It is a PROVEN fact that MOST right handed people have been putting the rear (R3+2) block on WRONG! Doing so WRONG will cause more toe on one side than the other. For instance. A right-handed person will set the car on it's left side, slide the R3+2 block on the left hinge pin, and FLEX it over to fit the right hinge pin. That is WRONG! Reason? You are FLEXING the inexpensive material in such a way that you elongate the holes in the inexpensive material. Elongating those holes causes one side to have more toe than the other. It is a PROVEN fact!
The fix??? Simple. Set the car FLAT on a flat surface (all 4 wheels touching the flat surface). Slide the R3+2 block UP to the hinge pins, but, and this will be in capital letters, MAKE SURE BOTH HINGE PINS SLIDE IN AT THE SAME TIME!!!! Do not flex one side over, do not force the block on, do not pass Go and do not collect $200 (little Monopoly joke!
) Now, if you slide it on correctly, you will have the same toe on BOTH sides of the car.
Now, as a disclaimer, MOST people that do this DO have a successful toe-angle. Not everyone will, though, so don't take this as the bible. It is merely the CORRECT way to fit this R block.
Lonestar. Try this. BUT, make sure you also put on a new R3+2 (or whatever) and a NEW R block, as the holes might already be elongated and just replacing the R3+2 block may not work.
Other things to check about a tweaked chassis. Your battery brace MUST BE SOMEWHAT LOOSE over the battery (a little movement up and down by the battery is correct....do not pin the battery into the car). The motor clamp must not be TOTALLY cinched down. Reasons???? Heat. All plastic and carbon chassis' are made with some sort of plastic. If either the battery or the motor are TOTALLY cinched down, when the battery/motor heats up, you will heat up the chassis. If the battery (this is the biggest culprit) is cinched down all the way, it will cause the heated chassis to bow and, when it cools (after you pull it out of the car or let it set for awhile), it will conform to the 'pinned' battery. The tight strap will force the battery down, warping the chassis. I've seen it happen 1000 times. I NEVER, EVER have had a problem with a warped chassis because of either of these problems....and it's not because I'm a factory driver or work at the factory...it's because I KNOW how to do it.
And I'm sharing becasue EVERYONE should KNOW how to do it. It will make your experience with this car a good one.
Lonestar: If you keep have these problems, PM me. We'll get it figured out.... Sound good?