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Old 11-01-2002, 05:53 AM   #2791
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I live in france and heard that the TC3 FT kit is now sold with the shaft axle in blue alum with new front and rear arms, and the chassis is much better without any tweek.

Anyone can help ?

Maybe Tony Phalen, or any associated guys ?

regards
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Old 11-01-2002, 06:17 AM   #2792
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along with the xxx-s front steering blocks is anyone using the xxx-s block carriers?
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Old 11-01-2002, 06:24 AM   #2793
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Ralf: Yes, the new kits will include the blue shaft, the new arms, and a 'better' chassis.
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Old 11-01-2002, 09:15 AM   #2794
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Tony,
Thanks for the addy...

Better chassis??? Might have to come talk with you
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Old 11-01-2002, 12:46 PM   #2795
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike F
along with the xxx-s front steering blocks is anyone using the xxx-s block carriers?

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Old 11-01-2002, 01:57 PM   #2796
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Yes it comes out of the mold with less natural tweak. does wonders between the same car. been there tried it. mine never took a tweak but the new one was still way better.
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Old 11-01-2002, 02:34 PM   #2797
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same part number for the chassis? What about a part number for the blue shaft. THanks
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Old 11-01-2002, 05:53 PM   #2798
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Trinityracenut: The traction of the foams will OVERload the car's suspension, and make it pitch and be twitchy etc. Trust me, if you don't like it you can dial the droop back in. With foam tires the best way to measure droop is to set ride height, and then lift the chassis up until the tires start to come off the table. Insert your ride height gauge. The difference from that height and ride hight is droop. Ex. 4mm ride height, 6mm "raised height"---6 - 4 =2, so 2mm droop. I would run about 1mm on both ends to start.
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Old 11-02-2002, 02:59 AM   #2799
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Default TC3 Set-Up

I need some help. I'm trying to find a set-up from last years 2001 Cleveland Indoor race for the TC3. I was told a local guy won Stock last year with a TC3 and a killer set-up, but I can't find anything on last years race, only the 2000 set-ups. Was his name Durling? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-02-2002, 10:32 AM   #2800
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Has anyone noticed the newer parts for the TC3 are out of whack? Its especially bad with the plastic outdrives, theyre about 2 mm shorter than they used to be, and with the front C-Hubs, its getting to the point where every single one requires hand-fitting, where it only used to be occasionally. Its getting to the pint where myself and a few of the people I race with are seriously considering new cars.

Anyone else have any thoughts?
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Old 11-02-2002, 12:19 PM   #2801
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Just finished (pretty much) putting my TC3 together, first Associated car other than a 10GT I had a couple of years ago. Not to impressed though, the chassis doesnt have any tweak in it but a few minor things really had a large impact for me since I'm stuck in Saudi.

First up, I open the box and take a look at what I have. Step one, bumper + front hinge block. Ok, tools needed, 1 1/16th allen wrench. Ok, allen wrench baggy, humm, two .050, 1 5/64, and 1 3/32. Doh! Not a big deal had my tools that were being shipped from the states not disappeared off the face of the earth (Dremel, digital calipers, soldering iron, and misc other junk).

Two days later, rest of my RC junk shows up with two sets of Hobbico tools (metric & standard), which included the 1/16 that I needed.

Aluminum screws for the bottom of the chassis, DOH! I thought these things were ruled illegal years ago. Swear that has to be one of the worst ideas in RC, just my opinion but they have no business on the bottom of the chassis, or in any other 1/16 or .050 application. Since the Hobbico kit shipped with a 1/16 ball driver I stripped two of them, not to big of a deal ago but enough to piss you off.

Diff, well, spring that goes under the thrust bearing actuall. Rather than being flat one was ground at about a 30* angle making the diff feel like shitola. Dremel still not found, DOH! Out come the pair of needle nose pliers (actually a Leathermen since my pliers are/where in the same box as the Dremel), here I am grinding away the spring by the only method available, the frickin sidewalk outside, lol. Got it as flat as I could but the diff still isnt near as smoothe as the other one unfortunatly.

Not to many problems building the rest of the kit though. The left front hub carrier does allow for the full angle of the wheels when turned left, an easy enough fix but annoying none the less.

The trannys were a bit of work too, to much binding with the shims recommended and the finish of the parts etc. Not a problem since I have plenty of time but it just seemed like the overall fit and finish wasnt what I was used to at all. Took a lot of work to free up the drivetrain. Had to remove the o-ring from the shaft as well, way to tight with it in there. Also have zero shims on the diffs, had to remove a considerable amount of material from the case to get them to drop in.

I dont know if Losi still has an inspector for every bag in the kit but I never had a problem with the 4 Losi cars prior to this one.

Its most of the way together now and looks very nice. Still no sign of that box so I have no soldering iron to get it up and running. Ordered a new Hakko but it will probably be another 3 weeks before I'm up and running I am impressed with the car at this point though. I think for the average builder this car may be a bit trying for somebody looking for a smoothe drivetrain out of the box.

Sorry about the long post, just wanted to vent I guess.
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Old 11-02-2002, 02:26 PM   #2802
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My sentiments exactly. The parts are starting to require too much hand-fitting. The best theory Ive heard is that the molds, which are probably 2-3 years old at least, are starting to become less precise.
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Old 11-02-2002, 07:47 PM   #2803
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Hey NTC3NUT you gonna be goin to Cleveland as well? I'll be heading there with 2 other guys. One will be racing Stock Touring with me and the other in the Masters 1/12th. I was also looking for a good setup for Stock. I'd love to run my oneway... but I have an IRS "spool" that will be here next week. I guess I'll just have to find out when I'm there.

Question... does anyone here run the IRS input shafts? If so... do you find that the "c-clips" don't fit on right? Just curious if anyone has "fixes" for this or a problem with them coming off. Thanks..
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Old 11-02-2002, 09:46 PM   #2804
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike F
along with the xxx-s front steering blocks is anyone using the xxx-s block carriers?
Yeha, the XXX-s block carriers are a direct dit. No real advantage over the Associated blocks though.. maybe a tiny bit stiffer.

I noticed that the XXX-s spindles mellow out the initial turn in on the TC-3 and gives it a little bot more exit power steering. The tie-rod location is slightly different and changes the ackerman a little bit. A big advantage of the Losi spindles is that the bottom screw is secured real TIGHT! Unlike the Associated spindle, which is prone to being stripped
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Old 11-02-2002, 10:23 PM   #2805
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i went to a track today. it was fun. except the guy only said that i could run my tc3 there once and it was just an exception. they only run tamiya!
i hate that. i can understand y tracks to that. but i think everytrack should run associated . but now to the problem. i ran into a corner twice and broke 2 suspension arms. on the same battary. ugh. and then i was outta spares . but i hate breaking parts. has anyone tried alum suspenion arms. has anyone ever broken an alum suspension arm or bent one. im interested in getting them cuz i will eventually pay for more plastic ones then alum ones would cost. i dont want to get them if they will break too. because they cost twice as much.

Last edited by racerdx6; 11-02-2002 at 10:32 PM.
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