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Old 10-19-2002, 11:37 AM   #2701
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no the blue aluminum shaft is not included, but the stock graphite one works fine and is better for stock. for spares i would say hub carriers front and rear, diff out drives, and probaly front and rear arms.
as for chassis tweak most of the chassis have a little as stated by dingus.
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Old 10-19-2002, 12:31 PM   #2702
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Quote:
Originally posted by Flash Gordan
Someone has one in the for sale forum for $100. A steal if you ask me.
In good condition also, I should know I purchased it . The deal came with 1 servo, 8 700 mah AA batteries, in the original box and came with the manual. Thanks Josh
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Old 10-19-2002, 05:55 PM   #2703
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mike F
In good condition also, I should know I purchased it . The deal came with 1 servo, 8 700 mah AA batteries, in the original box and came with the manual. Thanks Josh
Congrats on your purchase.
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Old 10-20-2002, 04:37 AM   #2704
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ralf
I heard about a steering problem, left and right steering is not equal, is it resolved ?
when i got my TC3 a couple of years ago, there was a slight difference in the left & right steering throws. im not sure if newer kits are still like this but it's easy to fix. i just filed off a little material from one of the steering knuckles on the part that hits the c-hub. just remove a little at a time and check if it's enough to make both steering directions equal.
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Old 10-20-2002, 06:53 AM   #2705
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Default Who likes the One-Way Diff on their TC3?

Trying to decide if I want to change to a One-Way Diff, or just switch to the lightweight diffs front and rear. I haven't 'officially' raced my TC3 yet, but we set up in the parking lot at work with Road Domes (20 of them), and it is pretty awesome! So..just learning to drive the car now with the Trinity P2K2 Pro motor (29T pinion/ stock spur). I like the power, and I guess it would fall in the Pro-Stock category?
Since I purchased my TC3 used, I have changed to the FT graphite chassis, and corner braces, blue alumium screw kit, but I am keeping the A arms stock, I think. A blue aluminum IRS shaft was already on the car. I will probably change to the aluminum CVDs. Oh, And I added the BRP bumper system, including side nerf wings. It can get rough in our parking lot, with as many as 4-6 TC3s racing at once! Yeah; were all new at this, but is it fantastic!
I'm also thinking, I will indeed go with the M8 radio (after some nice feedback on this forum), and perhaps the Novak GT7, and Xxtra receiver. 75 or 27 mhz? Is there a preference? Thanks!

Here is an interesting point / question.......
My TC3 came with the Stratus body, which is fine; it has good lines. Although, I am more into the Euro cars. I notice at the local club track, magazines, etc... that it is a R.O.A.R approved body. Many Pros run them... I have followed motor racing most of my life - F1, CART, Sports Car, and some Touring Car, but I do not ever remember seeing any Dodge Stratus Touring Cars on the track. I see Vauxhaulls, Volvos, Accords, Peugeots, Mercedes, BMW, etc... Am I simply missing the racing series that features the Stratus?

Ha! Yes, now I see,,,, The North American Touring Car Series ( now defunct) I just saw a photo of David Donohue's Stratus - 1997).



Greg

Last edited by GKHTC3; 10-20-2002 at 07:37 AM.
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Old 10-20-2002, 08:27 AM   #2706
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Default Setting the rear droop....

After rebuilding my TC3 (adding the FT chassis, etc...), I was setting the rear droop, and after hooking up the rear sway, it offsets the droop I just set. Am I explaining this okay? When the sway bar is hooked back up, it lifts the arms off their droop settings. Is this okay?

Greg

Last edited by GKHTC3; 10-20-2002 at 08:34 AM.
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Old 10-20-2002, 10:54 AM   #2707
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Well, I havent received the TC3 yet so I cant base this on experience but is it possible to add some/a spacer to try and bring the sway bar to the proper level so it doesnt change your droop settings? I dont know if it would effect the car when it was in race trim (batteries etc installed) but maybe that would be of help. Without really knowing what I'm talking about I'm of little help but thought I would throw it out there.
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Old 10-20-2002, 11:56 AM   #2708
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I'm not sure about the sway bar question, but as for one-ways, if you're not running on a high-grip surface(& I do mean HIGH grip), then I wouldn't bother with a one-way. But if you haven't gotten some lightweight diff outdrives I would suggest you do that immediately, they do make a difference in how well the car accelerates(they lower rotating mass, which is VERY important, especially with a stock motor). However, you really don't need to get the aluminum CVD's, they do look nice, but they are not any tougher than the composite plastic ones, & if anything the composites are even lighter(once again, the rotating mass issue) & most importantly, the composites are CHEAP by comparison, you can get 4 composites for about $10, but the aluminum ones are more like $22 for just TWO(& they don't offer any performance advantage whatsoever over the composite CVD's). If you do ever use a one-way, you'll really start to appreciate the composite CVD's better, because when you hit things with a one-way there, it puts a lot of stress on the drivetrain & can easily break a CVD(even the aluminum, that's how Iknow this about them, I've gone through plenty of CVD's, ). For now, I'd go with lightweight outdrives & keep the composite CVD's on yours, & then if later you feel you have all the traction you can handle you might consider a one-way....
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Old 10-20-2002, 02:53 PM   #2709
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Thanks for the input! Much appreciated. We run outdoors on the parking lot at work, which is asphalt. The local club also runs outdoors in different parking lots. I don't know if you would really consider the asphalt high grip or not, but I know some drivers use the one-way diffs. And of course, those that do run one- ways, swear by them. Like anything else - ha!
I may go ahead and get the light weight diffs. I have been fortunate and have not broken any A arms or anything else. I guess that BRP stuff really works!

Greg
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Old 10-20-2002, 04:34 PM   #2710
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Anybody ever stripped the tiny allenhead screw that holds the hinge pin on the front carrier block? the one underneath? How the f--- did you remove it? I've done it twice and it's starting to piss me off!!
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Old 10-20-2002, 06:01 PM   #2711
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Quote:
Originally posted by Deves
Anybody ever stripped the tiny allenhead screw that holds the hinge pin on the front carrier block? the one underneath? How the f--- did you remove it? I've done it twice and it's starting to piss me off!!
I did the same thing on my TC3. I just borrowed someone's dremel with a cutoff wheel and put a groove into the screw head. Then used a flathead screwdriver to remove it.
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Old 10-20-2002, 06:18 PM   #2712
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Default Re: Who likes the One-Way Diff on their TC3?

Quote:
Originally posted by GKHTC3
Trying to decide if I want to change to a One-Way Diff, or just switch to the lightweight diffs front and rear. I haven't 'officially' raced my TC3 yet, but we set up in the parking lot at work with Road Domes (20 of them), and it is pretty awesome! So..just learning to drive the car now with the Trinity P2K2 Pro motor (29T pinion/ stock spur). I like the power, and I guess it would fall in the Pro-Stock category?
Since I purchased my TC3 used, I have changed to the FT graphite chassis, and corner braces, blue alumium screw kit, but I am keeping the A arms stock, I think. A blue aluminum IRS shaft was already on the car. I will probably change to the aluminum CVDs. Oh, And I added the BRP bumper system, including side nerf wings. It can get rough in our parking lot, with as many as 4-6 TC3s racing at once! Yeah; were all new at this, but is it fantastic!
I'm also thinking, I will indeed go with the M8 radio (after some nice feedback on this forum), and perhaps the Novak GT7, and Xxtra receiver. 75 or 27 mhz? Is there a preference? Thanks!

Here is an interesting point / question.......
My TC3 came with the Stratus body, which is fine; it has good lines. Although, I am more into the Euro cars. I notice at the local club track, magazines, etc... that it is a R.O.A.R approved body. Many Pros run them... I have followed motor racing most of my life - F1, CART, Sports Car, and some Touring Car, but I do not ever remember seeing any Dodge Stratus Touring Cars on the track. I see Vauxhaulls, Volvos, Accords, Peugeots, Mercedes, BMW, etc... Am I simply missing the racing series that features the Stratus?

Ha! Yes, now I see,,,, The North American Touring Car Series ( now defunct) I just saw a photo of David Donohue's Stratus - 1997).



Greg
Until you get really, really good it will not make you any faster, just more frustrated probably. At the top levels where driving and setups converge, it makes a difference, until then you're way better off with brakes.
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Old 10-21-2002, 05:01 AM   #2713
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Can anybody help with setup for tc3 on a velodrome?

I've got access to a velodrome and need to get the tc3 ready for a speed run with a brushless.
I've never run on a banked oval ever so i have no idea how to setup.
The angle of the velodrome is about 20-30 degrees
Any help would be appreciated!!

Cheers
Sam
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Old 10-21-2002, 09:39 AM   #2714
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Quote:
Originally posted by madweazl
Well, I havent received the TC3 yet so I cant base this on experience but is it possible to add some/a spacer to try and bring the sway bar to the proper level so it doesnt change your droop settings? I dont know if it would effect the car when it was in race trim (batteries etc installed) but maybe that would be of help. Without really knowing what I'm talking about I'm of little help but thought I would throw it out there.
The sway bar shouldn't affect the droop settings. You do have to set droop (and tweak and ride height) without the sway bar engaged. . . but all the sway bar does is encourage the car to stay level (thus the proper name is anti-sway bar)

The sway-bar can affect tweak (which means it needs to be tweaked itself) but should not have any effect on droop.
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Old 10-21-2002, 09:50 AM   #2715
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Default One Way Outdrive

Hello guys!

I use a one way on my FT-TC3 and for me it handles better.

Whats the difference between using a one way and a locked diff?

And why is it that, the drive cups of the one way, brake easily, like just a clip on the barier, bang!!, it breaks into pieces. As in nothing broken in the car except the drive cups?
(m i doing anything wrong?, except clipping the bariers)

Have gone through 2 already, now i am modifying the drive cups of the Front One Way for the MR4TC-SP, it looks more sturdy but requires a little milling.

Thanks!

Lem
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