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Old 09-29-2002, 10:18 PM   #2566
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hi,i've been looking 4ward 2 getting a tc3 factory kit.it's great value for money.

but i have asked around and also reviews had said that the car exhibit torque steer.i would like 2 know how serious is it?...n wat r the ways 2 remedy it?...

it's a real great kit n i would love 2 get it.
can any1 help mi?...
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Old 09-29-2002, 10:25 PM   #2567
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Default Torque Steer

Using a FT-TC3, for Stock Racing! ANd have not experience any torque steer. And was surprised, I was expecting it though, since my TBevo had it but to my surprize naaada!!!

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Old 09-29-2002, 10:36 PM   #2568
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ijnek:I dont think you will ever experience torque steering in any racing. That effect on the chassis is from a standing still launch. In a race you will only experience that when the race starts and with stock you probably wont ever feel it.
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Old 09-29-2002, 10:43 PM   #2569
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I've never felt it in stock OR mod. I've HEARD that I should have torque steer, been TOLD that, but just never have felt it.

Maybe my hands are numb. . .
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Old 09-30-2002, 08:44 AM   #2570
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Default TC3 Balance

Actually, you guys bring up a good point. Whenever you run a car with 6 cells on one side of the car, the assumption is that the servo, speedo, and motor add up to the same weight as the batteries. But think about this. Since the TC3 was released batteries have gotten heavier and electronics have gotten much smaller and lighter for the most part. So a good 3000 or 3300 cell is quite a bit heavier than a 2000. And a quantum hardly registers on the scale compared to a Cyclone. If you have light electronics and a heavy battery, getting your car to sit level and to keep the bubble in the middle on a tweak board is pretty tough without using ballast (additional offsetting weights).

Also, lets say that you run stock with a 100T spur gear and have a 33-38 pinion on your car. Look at where the motor sits in relation to the edge of the chassis. Now put a mod motor in. You may have to run a 26-28 tooth pinion for the right rollout. Now your motor is sitting significantly closer the the center of the chassis which means less offsetting weight to your battery pack. Sometimes using a larger spur for mod can help keep the motor in a consistant place compared to your stock setups.

As far as what to do. If everything appears to be mechanically correct, and you still have to turn one shock collar alot more than the other side... In many cases if your chassis is level its gonna put a tweak on the car. And if you even it out on the tweak board, your ride height might vary from side to side. For a quick fix, find a happy medium. Try to get the side to side ride height to within about .5 mm of being the same and get 80% of the bubble in the middle on the tweak board. In most cases, the suspension will be forgiving enough to handle properly with these slight imperfections. When you have the time, add some weight to the electronics side of the car. You shouldn't need more than .75 to 1.5 ozs to balance it.

Another couple points to mention. If you are using swaybars, theres a very good chance that this is the biggest input of tweak. A high percentage of the AE swaybars come unevenly bent from side to side. Add onto this that you have to be very careful to get the sway bar links exactly the same length when you build them. Try taking your sways off and checking tweak, then put it back on and see if there is a difference. If there is, check the length of your links. Also put your swaybar on a smooth flat surface and check that its even. You may need to do a little bending to get it there.

Lastkt, on many TC3's, especially ones that have a good amount of runs on them, the back right corner of the chassis (by the motor) can tend to warp or curve up. This has to do with the heat that the motor generates in combination with the torque alot of people use to clamp their motor down (hence the addition of the longer screw with the spring). Most people over-torque these screws beyond what is needed to secure the motor. Just more food for thought.
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Old 09-30-2002, 09:51 AM   #2571
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Dave, now thats good food for thought! Never really thought about the sway bars, and the differences between mod, and stock as far as relation to the edge of the chassis.
As far as "Torque steer", I felt it before with my Evo II. It was very noticible on that car, that supposively wasnt supposed to have any according to the specs that was improved upon over the original Evo. I was worried about "Torque steer" when I first bought my FT TC3, but I'm happy to report that I have never once "felt" anything other than a straight as an arrow car.
I have driven a relatives TC3 RTR which doesnt track too well, but I'm convinced the radio system (trims arent fine tuned enough), and weak steering servo is to blame there.
Also has anyone seen the ad for the locked front diff from DragonRC? It looks like a solid machined aluminum piece that comes with the gear, and weights in at 9 grams. Price is kinda high at ..... $55 a pop.
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Old 09-30-2002, 09:54 AM   #2572
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Yeah, $55 is real steep, esp when you can purchase the parts and build your own for a LOT less. . .I just used old spare diff parts, so mine was FREE!!!!
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Old 09-30-2002, 10:13 AM   #2573
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I read somewhere for a locked diff, you can remove the diff balls and insert card stock (cut into the right size circle to fit in the gear) on both sides, then tighten the diff. With the right material, you can even get the tension right to achieve a slight slipping (to help the car not wash (push) so much under hard power.
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Old 09-30-2002, 10:14 AM   #2574
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Yep, I just pull out the balls (castrate) and tighten it down. A little locktite on the nut so it won't back out and its good to go.
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Old 09-30-2002, 10:25 AM   #2575
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So what's your take on the solid diff axels? Just different handling or a distinct advantage? Anybody running them with foam tires?
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Old 09-30-2002, 10:45 AM   #2576
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I have been running them for a while, but dropped them on Saturday for the setup that SoCal had (extremely tight and twisty) - I found that normal front diff worked better for me this time.

I found it has much more "pull" through the mid and end of the turns, but since this week's track was so tight, it's slight push at the opening of the turn was a detriment. It actually was borderline for me. . .
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Old 09-30-2002, 03:19 PM   #2577
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Dave, there is a distinct advantage with a locked diff up front. I was at your track with Kevin Kane a few weeks ago to test. the car comes so much harder off the corner you have to try it to believe it. The main theing is you must dial more mid corner steering into the car as it will try to park itself. Both my TC3 and Kevin's Mission acted the same way at first, it is the nature of the spool. Our cars were not so good Saturday, but we were going like .5 faster a lap the next day (12.5's). The big thing is getting the mid corner push out of the car. Reducing ackerman, changing the front roll center, and playing with droop helped most.
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Old 09-30-2002, 07:40 PM   #2578
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Default rangulo and Dave

Thanks for your help. I will have to try the weight on the right side of the car. I have a 2143 ko servo and a quantum and jr reciever. I will try the tweak board test after I make sure everything is straight. I have tried it but I'll do it again to make sure. All of the sudden the car just stopped handling, it was perfect for a few weeks then went down the drain. Thanks for the help.

Ron
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Old 09-30-2002, 07:45 PM   #2579
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I tried something new this summer for better weight distribution in my TC3. Before I had just added weight to the right side to balance out the car, but at the track I race at in the summer we don't have a minimun weight. I decided to use only the weight of the componants of the car to balance it out.
I used Panasonic stock metal this summer. On the left side I put 2 cells in the front slots then the foam spacer then my Cyclone turned sideways then 2 more cells.
On the right side was the servo with a Tekin receiver on top then I put 2 slots in the chassis for the last 2 cells. If you put a string on the middle two bolts that hold the shock towers on and pick up in the middle the car would be just slightly right heavy, which is just what I wanted for the track configuration that we were running. This setup helped tire wear alot (foam on asphalt) and my lap times were very competitive.

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Old 10-01-2002, 09:35 AM   #2580
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LEM2,

what brand of alum parts are you using? where did you order it? how's your alum knuckle arm? how about the outdrives and steering rack do i need to change them to aluminum?
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