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Old 09-26-2002, 02:03 PM   #2536
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
Also the hinge pins need to be stronger. . .

The only other thing that I just don't like, so much, is the steering rack. I would love to find someone who has replaced it with a bellcrank system. . . <hint hint>
On the Hinge pins, I totally agree. I just had to replace mine, I got a set of BRP's, let's see how they hold up. I would like to see some ALUM hinge pin holders as well, hmm you would think that someone woulduv done this already, like IRS, Niftech, or Cross.

I like the steering rack................
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Old 09-26-2002, 02:59 PM   #2537
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If you have a dremel tool, you can buy 3/32 (i think) music wire and cut hinge pins w/a cutoff wheel. As long as you have a stock piece to measure from its real easy and cheap at about 89 cents for a 3 foot length. if you can find them drill blanks would be even better...
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Old 09-26-2002, 03:19 PM   #2538
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Trinity and GPM both make metal hinge pin holders.They use a delrin insert.
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Old 09-26-2002, 07:08 PM   #2539
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The TC3 is quite durible, and to be quite frank, I get tired of hearing people say not to buy one cuase they dont hold up. Ya, I was that way too,.....but after seeing a relative with the TC3 RTR totally bash his car on a weekly basis, I changed my mine real quick. I've had yokomo's, Hpi's, Tamiya's,ofna's, and a schumacher, and can attest that they all break, some easier than others. The TC3 was fragile in the begining, but
associated has addressed the issues and has a awesome car.
I switched back to associated for these simple reasons: great product, great performance, and great parts support. No other company out there can say that!
The only other spare part (you should keep on hand arms,knuckles,ect anyway) I would suggest to anyone is to get the new RPM front bumper. It fully protects the front end front tire to tire, and the trinity foam bumper really bullet proof the front end. I've put it to the test with excellent results!
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Old 09-26-2002, 07:15 PM   #2540
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Default My TC3 suk

Well, if you went this far, you asked for it...

I built the racer kit as directed. My problem is that I cannot turn right as well as left under power. The wheels turn fully to the stops. From a dead stop and full turn, the car does doughnuts to the left and only like a 20 foot radius when turned to the right when I ram the throttle. Overall, the car pushes under power. No way can it spin at any speed unless I do a forcefull left right/right left.

I swapped shocks and tires left to right. I remeasured everything (toe and camber) for symetry. I bought the optional parts (like more castor and less rear toe) to increase steering, but it still pushes like a bull. It drives up to full speed straight as an arrow though.

I can appreciate fine tuning, but the problem is so gross that you would think there is like 40 degrees of tweak somewhere.

BTW, what the freak is tweak anyway? How about a 5-toe launch over the goal posts, is that tweaked enough?

The car:

Stock racer
10x2 P-94 geared 20/72

The track:
High school asphalt--only when the cops are getting their doughnuts thoug. Yes, they threatened, harassed and booted a couple kids "playing" with their toys.

My Trisonic 10x2 was way faster than that crap P-94 too even after I ran 40 packs through it. What a waste of money. Its making my TC2 burn up with the same gearing.

I am just pissed because my buddy with his old and abused 3-belt street weapon running a 13x2 orion core spanks the H out of my TC3.

Also, I am trying to read every page on this thread, but I have about as much time for 5 pages at a time. So is there anyway I can get back to page 30 without having to load like 25 pages of redundancy?
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Old 09-26-2002, 08:21 PM   #2541
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The way you're talkin, OB, you need that redundancy.

The probable reason why you can't turn either left or right under power is either that you don't have enough tire for it or you don't have stiff enough springs in the rear (too much weight transfer rearward).

The real reason, however, is most likely that you are running a 10x2 when you should probably be running a mabuchi 540.

Quote:
only like a 20 foot radius . . . when I ram the throttle. . .high school asphalt
Lighten up on the motor, stiffen up the rear springs and feather the throttle and you'll kick his a$$.
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Old 09-26-2002, 08:22 PM   #2542
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Tweak, btw, is the amount of down-force that each arm has. They should be even R-L.

If you use a knife and lift the center-front of your car very slowly, both tires should leave the ground at the same time - repeat at the rear, repeat at the front. This should give you basic tweak. For better results purchase a tweak station from your LHS
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Last edited by Boomer; 09-27-2002 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 09-26-2002, 08:43 PM   #2543
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Shaft car is one of the most efficient drivetrain that you can find. TC3 is still one of the best car because whenever there is any big race. You can find at least one or two in the top 10. Look at IFMAR, there are at least one or two TC3 and HPI Prototype (TC3 Clone).
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Old 09-26-2002, 09:14 PM   #2544
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Wink warpspeed tc3 carbon fiber chassis

I have news about the Warpspeed carbon fiber chassis conversion for the TC3. It is awsome. It should be out in late october. We are testing the prototype but if it benifits the TC3 as much as the warpspeed shumacher chassis did for the Mission then it should be hot. You will be able to use the stock suspension or the nitro tc3 pivot ball suspension. Look for it soon on the www.warpspeed-racing.com
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Old 09-27-2002, 05:37 AM   #2545
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Boomer....the 5mm. you are talking about would be droop....tweak is uneven weight on each tire........
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Old 09-27-2002, 08:17 AM   #2546
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AAAAH, okay, you're right! I can't believe I said that - editing my post now. . .
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Old 09-27-2002, 10:20 AM   #2547
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OK thanks guys.

I did mean literally that MY TC3 suks--but Im down with it being the best.

I tried the knife test and set the preloads as appropriate. And I have 2 cars, one was the RTR kit and, since it is so much slower, there was no doing dougnuts, but it still pushes too (moreso on left turns).

I made the rear stiffer, but just as a test by using lots of preload, so compression was not likely and it still pushed. I was kind of expecting a more drastic change with the new parts.

But even in drag he ends up about 10 feet in front by the time we hit top speed. I took the motor off and spun the spur for about 10 revs of freewheeling, so its not binding.

Now I am thinking sway bars, maybe Ill buy stiffer springs too. I put the rear up higher, but otherwise I am suspecting a gross amount of torque steer or a twisted chasis.
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Old 09-27-2002, 01:53 PM   #2548
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Ob, increasing preload will not change the spring rate. Literally, change the springs.

Even more so, drop your motor to a lesser motor and work out the problems.

Right now the problems are probably that you are using too much motor for your rear springs, your tires, and especially your track surface.

Also, how often are you cutting your motor? You're saying that your car sucks - what is the setup? What are you doing, exactly?

And if it sucks that bad, why did you buy a second one?
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Old 09-27-2002, 03:12 PM   #2549
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Hey Guys, Having a problem with my TC3 being ass-end loose out of the corners, tried Stiffening my front springs but that didn't help...

I've been told to lower my droop a point, what effect will that have on the car???
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Old 09-27-2002, 03:49 PM   #2550
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Dude, what surface are you on?
In general taking some droop out of the car can have a calming effect since there is less suspension travel. If you have too much droop your car can feel floaty and imprecise. Reducing droop, on a surface with enough traction, will make the car feel like it is more hooked up and sure of itself. Droop is a really important adjustment, so try reducing the droop and see what happens.

More rear droop=more off power (braking) steering
More front droop = more on power (throttle) steering

Droop also controls how much the car can roll, so it also affects how quickly the car reacts.

I'm sure somebody can explain it better than me. Good luck
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